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6 bolt project begins, Need advice though

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Libila

20+ Year Contributor
1,099
0
Oct 13, 2002
Carson City, Nevada
Im starting work on my 6 bolt motor. I have a block with crank and the sale of the new head is pending. I have some questions/looking for advice about a couple things though.

First off I want to know if going with HKS 264's is worth it. Im only going to be using my big-28 turbo, so would I even get that much out of them for the money?

I want to keep this car fairly simple but build something cost effective. For the internals I was thinking of just doing the good ol' 1g big rod and 95 piston combo, thoughts on this?

The last thing on my mind is my intercooler piping positioning. I have the evo III ex. manifold and t28 on my 2g and I would like to use them with the new motor since they are both new. I know the manifold needs clearencing to fit a 1g. Also the intercooler piping is directioned differently from a 1g to a 2g but would that make a difference in a swap like mine? I also know that I will have to run different oil/coolant lines as well, right?

Thats all I can think of right now. Im getting the work done professionally because I have never assembled an engine before but I do need to start purchasing internals and what not. Any help or advise is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance
 
Just a thought, would it be wiser to just swap out the bottom end and keep my 2g head that only has 9,000 miles on it?
 
Keeping the 2G head is the way to go. It flows better then the 1G head even though the 1G head has bigger ports. Go to www.magnusmotorsports.com and use their tutorial on 1G in a 2G. This is what a lot of 2Gers are doing to avoid crankwalk.
 
what is the miss-information? You didnt correct it.
 
uh..lets see
1g head intake runners are about twice the size of the 2g and so are the exhaust ports......anybody care to explain why bigger is better?

its a lot easier if you just drop the entire 6bolt.

lets see your going to need the following
DSMLINk to get rid of the CEL and engine missfire also a great great tunning tool.. www.dsmlink.com

i would advice that you get an externale oilcooler (air to oil cooler) rather than using the coolant to oil cooler for a couple of reasons. i think that the oil to coolant doesnt cool the oil as well as the air to oil cooler, the airtooil cooler
machvmotorsports has the oilfilter housing you need and the oilcooler itself you can get it off a 1g dsm along with the lines.
coolant lines, you need to modify them to fit your turbocharger. Itns not hard to do..here is what i did to make the coolant lines work with my t25 (i blew it like 2 months ago)
the red circle at the bottom i use for the bottom oilcoolant hose (i believe that that is the feed line and the top is the return line)
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also people on here as you will find out tell you to cut the counter weight on your tranny cause it gets on the way for the radiator coolan hose. What i did was to buy one of the flexible universal coolant hoses get one thats bout 2feet long and use some zipties to tie it to the lower engine mount bracket. I will try to take some pics tomorrow so youll see what im talking about..
there are other things that i might be missing...but if you have anyquestions as your building this hit me up on AIM

chaye21

or yahoo

chayito95

oh also i have wiseco pistons .30overbore with 8.5:1 comp
i love them...

good luck
 
So I shouldnt have a problem re-using my turbo?

Thank you so much for that helpful post, it was awesome. Now can someone address the other questions about cams and my choice of internals? Any other information will be helpful. Thanks :thumb:
 
no there shouldnt be no problem at all infact the 2gexhaust manifold or the evo should bolt right up with no problems at all.....

my bottom end is pretty mild i have the 1Grods with 2g wiseco pistons (2g cause they have the 22mm wrist pin, the machine shop had to enlarge the small end of the rod) other than thepistons everything else is stock (brand new ofcourse) the bottome end i had it balanced.

good luck ....look foward to many nights with no sleep....he he
 
I forgot to tell you guys about the head. Its a 1g thats been rebuilt with evo 8 valves and a three angle valve job, nothing too fancy. I picked up the block today and it needs a good cleaning but the cylinder walls look good. Any special info for cleaning that thing or should I be safe using the pressure washer?
 
Originally posted by chaye
uh..lets see
1g head intake runners are about twice the size of the 2g and so are the exhaust ports......anybody care to explain why bigger is better?

good luck

Why dont you explain why you think bigger is better. If you know anything about fluid dynamics and head design you will understand that bigger is not always better. Its the combination of port diameter, valve diameter, intake port length, and bowl shape that makes an efficient head. Air velocity at the intake vavle and into the combustion chamber is one of the most important factors in a high horsepower head along with swirl. If you think that bigger is always better then why dont you just run a 4.5 inch exhaust right off your turbo. One more thing, if the 1G head is so much more superior then the 2G then why does Buschur racing run the 2G head on their race car???????
 
The deal on the 1g head fell through. So now I just have the 6 bolt bottom end. Should I just use my top end, its been recently rebuilt (9,000 miles ago)? Also can anyone tell me what year 1g had the "big" rods? Im having trouble finding them and this bottom end I have already has pistons and rods in there.
 
you could also consider eagle - they aren't too bad on price and hold up well.

aside from who uses what head, are there any actual numbers to prove which head is better? Like stock 1g vs stock 2g. then heavily ported 1g vs heavily ported 2g.

Considerring this isn't for a race car, i would think either way would be just fine. I don't think you would see that much difference running a 2g instead of a 1g. Might just want to try and get a 1g for ease of installation and sell your 2g.
 
good god ex taC, your a freakin idiot.....do more research before you post anything and do everyon on this board a favor.

first you say 2g is better than a 1g ....... WRONG.

next you start spouting about shit you don't even know about.."uh...duh, velocity.....duh, swirl, yeah thats it....uh i'm fast duh......"

third you state buschur is running a 2g head....anyone worth their salt knows there is more porting POTENTIAL in a 2g head.......stock for stock, a 1g CRUSHES a 2g head.
 
im with Chris on this one here.....

Stock 1g vs stock 2g......1g hands down.
if im wrong that im an idiot along with all the other people who are using a 2g bottom end and a 1g head......bu..fugen hoooo
 
Well for this motor I dont think Im going to need mass amount of air flow since its looking like its going to be a stock head with just the 2g/1g piston/rod combo.

Can someone please let me know what years had the "big" rods, no point in buying them if I possibly already have them.

I was looking at the kit from Magnus for the 2g head on a 1g block, and it seems very complete. ARP hardware, BS eliminator, new oil pan, all that stuff. Im going to give them a call later today to get more info.
 
*New info*

I got a 1g head for $100 and Im picking it up tomarrow. The bottom end is pretty much decided, Im sticking with the 2g pistons and 1g rods. The only question I have is would it be wise to get it bored? If so how much? .5mm or 1mm?

Since the top end is going to be free to do whatever with Ive been thinking about upgrading valves and camshafts possibly. I would like to hear some opinions on combos. Just remember that I will be using a smaller sized turbo.

Thats it for now, lets hear some thoughts. Thanks for all the help fellow tuners:thumb:
 
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