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any reason not to get a 20G??

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dashtz69

20+ Year Contributor
138
0
Apr 16, 2003
Is there any reason not to get a 20G instead of a 16G. I am going to be getting some nice chunks of money pretty soon, and will be getting everything else necessary to upgrade my turbo. Then I will get the turbo and as of right now I'm leaning towards the 20G because of the higher spool up RPM, which should help with me being FWD right? The SBR 2G20G is only $50 more than the 2G16G, and it has more potential. Is there something I'm missing? I will be getting my car running as good as possible before I get this stuff, so tell me why I shouldn't get the 20G... if you can. ;)
 
everyone seems to be getting some sort of chunks of money this time of year huh ;) , wouldnt have anything to do with a tax refund? no? t3/t4 50 trim is better I've heard plus its like 800-850$ and its bolt on, while 20g's can run you more than a thousand.
 
...and graduation:shhh: ... Well I was just thinking that the Mitsubishi center section was better. I think i remember reading somewhere about the 50 trim needing something extra to cool the center section? Maybe I'm forgetting something... the SBR 20G is only 900...
 
From what I read on this forum most people who don't like the 20g is because of the turbo lag... but since you are going top end then i guess this doesnt matter to you... but just wanted to let you know


happy boostin :thumb:
 
full boost in a TDO6H hits at 3500RPM and a Mitsubishi Turbo is easier than a Hybrid Garrett. If you get a Hybrid you will needed to re-loop/or block off the water-lines. Which in the long run can lead to premature turbo failure if you dont do the proper procedures (let the car idle for few minutes everytime OR get an oil cooler)
 
You really are asking the wrong question.

What pressures do you want the car to run and what are the goals for the car?

Take a look at these threads.

Cars define turbos…..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/sho...=107653&highlight=turbo+volumetric+efficiency


Small 16g compressor map
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/sho...59&perpage=25&highlight=16g 2\.4&pagenumber=2


If you don't plan on going over 20psi i would get the 16g or evo 16g and same some cash. That money will be needed to make sure your fuel can support your turbo.
 
In my opinion, a 50 trim hybrid is in the same price range. Hell, you could even go with a 60-1 or 57 trim or whatever and still be in that same price range but have significantly more power. I say get a hybrid. I'd only buy a 20g if it was used (good condition of course) for around $500-600.

Jake
 
Originally posted by jake98gst
In my opinion, a 50 trim hybrid is in the same price range. Hell, you could even go with a 60-1 or 57 trim or whatever and still be in that same price range but have significantly more power. I say get a hybrid. I'd only buy a 20g if it was used (good condition of course) for around $500-600.

Jake
A 50 trim may be the same price itself, but what about the exhaust manifold, O2 housing and external wastegate needed to run those? Those pieces should be factored into the expenses as well. You can get a hybrid that allows you to bolt it up without that stuff, but the price will go up and will not be comparable to a 16g. And even then, you only have the "potential" for more power with one of those bigger turbos. You'd still need to tune it. I'd say get a 16g and learn to tune. A 16g is fine for most everyone, since you can get it to run low 12's if tuned right. You can always sell your turbo and upgrade later once you get more experienced.
 
I'd say get a 16g and learn to tune. A 16g is fine for most everyone, since you can get it to run low 12's if tuned right. You can always sell your turbo and upgrade later once you get more experienced.

Put magnificantly....
 
Originally posted by DSMSpyder99
full boost in a TDO6H hits at 3500RPM and a Mitsubishi Turbo is easier than a Hybrid Garrett. If you get a Hybrid you will needed to re-loop/or block off the water-lines. Which in the long run can lead to premature turbo failure if you dont do the proper procedures (let the car idle for few minutes everytime OR get an oil cooler)

Looping the waterlines is a super easy job. A 12" piece of hose and loop from one to the other, no big deal.

Oil cooled turbos are designed to be only oil cooled and will last just as long as an oil/water cooled turbo. Generally most guys racing run the bearing out of the turbo from high speed and high load long before heat will ever kill it. You must still cool an oil cooled turbo the same as a oil/water cooled turbo, the procedure is no different. Most turbo manufacturers (Turbonetics / Precision / Garrett) recommend only 30 seconds of cool time after a hard drive. I personally have put over 75,000km (50,000 miles) on my last oil only turbo (on a Turbo VW) and it was no different in shape then my T25 that came off my current car with 50,000 miles on it.

As long as you change your oil regurarly (duh!) and give it some time to cool after a hard drive 30sec - one min it should last just as long, mine did. Generally what I do is just drive slow and easy the last mile of where I'm going and you won't have to let the car idle at all or very little.

The plus of an oil only turbo is a lot less crap to deal with when you have to re-re your turbo for whatever reason. Just a few bolts and two lines, thats it. My whole turbo setup (turbo manifold down pipe, wastegate etc, the whole jam) comes off in 20 mins now because I have everything simplified so the removal and re-install is a piece of cake.
 
Thank you Ludachris. You are very correct, I do not know how to tune.
:( I was just thinking that I would get everything bigger now, so I didn't have to do it again later. Not only the turbo, but the injectors as well. I figured DSMlink would help me tune it better than an AFC and I would learn as I went, but I think it might be safer for me and the car just to get a 16G for now. Thanks for the help. :thumb:
 
Originally posted by Ludachris
A 50 trim may be the same price itself, but what about the exhaust manifold, O2 housing and external wastegate needed to run those? Those pieces should be factored into the expenses as well. You can get a hybrid that allows you to bolt it up without that stuff, but the price will go up and will not be comparable to a 16g. And even then, you only have the "potential" for more power with one of those bigger turbos. You'd still need to tune it. I'd say get a 16g and learn to tune. A 16g is fine for most everyone, since you can get it to run low 12's if tuned right. You can always sell your turbo and upgrade later once you get more experienced.
Absolutely true. I absolutely agree and very well said. But turbo for turbo, a 50 trim hybrid will make more power than a 20g for the same price. I did not take into consideration the fact that he didn't know how to tune.

Jake
 
i would just go with the 50 trim. u will get the best results with that on pump gas. I was looking in to getting a 20g but a few of my buddies have them and they spool up kinda slow. You will get a lot more power out of the 20g than the 16g but if you are goin for maximum hp go for the 50 trim. whatever u decide good luck. if you are for sure on the 20g don't let anyone change ur mind. good luck man.:dsm:
 
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