For anyone who has installed prothane motor mounts...

[RoasT BeeF]

I am currently rebuilding my motor so while it is out of the car I thought I may as well throw some prothane motor mounts in there. I bought the complete prothance insert set for my 1G. I was just wondering if there are any tricks to get the old rubber inserts pressed out? For anyone who has done this you know that there is the outer case, and then a thin metal case around the insert itself. I am having a hell of a time getting the old ones pressed out. I am using a 20 ton hydraulic press and they wont budge. All it does is tear the rubber because I cant find anything that will fit perfectly around that inner metal edge. If anyone who has done this has any special tricks please let me know. I really dont want to have to pay a machine shop to press these out.

Thanks.

 

[Zex4g63]

Get in there with a die grinder and slice the thin piece all the way across. It will come right out then.

 

[mustg5]

i cut all the rubber away with a jig saw, then used vise grips and bent the shit out of the metal, takes a little while, but good method to use...good luck

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Right on thanks guys. My next thought was to use an air hammer but didnt really wanna do that. Now I have some other options.

 

[pope]

i used a torch and heated up the thin piece of metal till it was a lil more plyable and then drove a screwdriver between it and the actual mount. then i beat the hell out of it with a hammer and it came right out.

 

[GstRacer]

dose anyone have these on a 2g if so how much vibrating are we taking?

 

[Agent Ezzard]

I got them and I love it. They vibrate a very good amount so if you are wary about getting them then try to find another car to ride in before you decide to put them in yours.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

I got one of them pressed out today. Didnt have time for the others.

Be interesting to see how much of a difference this makes since I'm doing prothane motor mounts and balance shaft removal at the same time. hehe.

 

[leet]

The vibration isn't too bad. You will get used to it quickly.

 

[hose101772]

I wouldn't do the sides,only the front and rear.I did the sides first and mine vibed up alot.With front and rear installed there was no change.Of course shortly after mine was finished I had a chance to sit in one with just the front and rear mounts done,what a difference it was just as smooth as stock.

 

[Gooberlog]

Worked with a guy puting the whole mount kit in a 2g and the inside rattels like hell. The pwr sunroof sounded like it was gunna fall out,and the more "plasticy" interior of the 2g was rattleing like crazy at idle. My firend has a 1g w/ the full mount kit and its much less anoying.

 

[trayingkilla]

ive been trying to determine whether these will make that after-shift feel better? its like i have to be very delicate with the gas or you can feel the engine rotate, you know?
thanks in advance

 

[CYCLONE]

Do both side mounts and the front. Leave the rear one alone,
or drill a couple holes in the rear one before you install it. Then
you will only get a slight vibration at idle.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Why are you guys pressing out the stock rubber motor mounts
I just removed the mounts from the engine and chassis and simply installed
the inserts, hence the name Prothane Motor Mount Inserts, they are simply
there to take up the gaps in the stock motor mounts....

 

[Ace_of_Spades]

Where did u get the mount kit and how much do they cost?

 

[Strm Trpr]

Where did u get the mount kit and how much do they cost?

Well, I didn't get the prothane kit, but I know for a fact the two roll stop mounts, or the 2 lower and smaller of the 4 mounts, the inserts are exactly like the Energy Suspension kit.... They simply slip into the mounts....
On the upper mounts, I removed them and bought some castable urethane from Mc Master Carr and filled the motor mounts til they we flush with the edge of the aluminum portion of the motor mounts.... the only thing is that you have to let them cure for a couple of days....

I believe you can buy the kit pretty much anywhere you can get dsm parts, but you're gonna pay just under $100 + shipping....

I spent like $15 shipped the ES Lower mount inserts....
and like $30 shipped for the Castable Urethane Resin....

If you want pm me & Let me know if you want any help doing what I did....

 

[Ace_of_Spades]

Thanks for the help but I just bought a kit from Dimaond Star Specialties for $84 for everything.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Right on..... I was just about to tell you that Slowboy has them for $85...
http://www.slowboyracing.com/Engine/Prothane motor mounts/Prothane_motor_mounts.html

 

[boostedinaz]

Why are you guys pressing out the stock rubber motor mounts
I just removed the mounts from the engine and chassis and simply installed
the inserts, hence the name Prothane Motor Mount Inserts, they are simply
there to take up the gaps in the stock motor mounts....

The side mounts are not just inserts. You have to get rid of the rubber and then press out the ring that the rubber was attached to.


Just do the front and the rear and leave the side alone. The front and the rear are the ones thattake the most abuse and wear out. IF you dont mind alittle more vibration then do all four.

Michael

 

[Strm Trpr]

The side mounts are not just inserts. You have to get rid of the rubber and then press out the ring that the rubber was attached to.


Just do the front and the rear and leave the side alone. The front and the rear are the ones thattake the most abuse and wear out. IF you dont mind alittle more vibration then do all four.

Michael

Sorry guys, I thought the upper motor mounts inserts were indeed the same
design as the lower roll stop mount inserts.... My bad....

I used 94 Shore A Castable urethane and it worked out really well for my 2
upper motor mounts....

I would've bought the Prothane's, but they only come in RED, and I want to
do my engine bay in black and blue....

Thanks for the info....

 

[gigahz95]

Just do the front and the rear and leave the side alone. The front and the rear are the ones thattake the most abuse and wear out. IF you dont mind alittle more vibration then do all four.

Ironically enough, i replaced mine because the timing belt motor mount was torn badly. I love them though, car sounds so badass at idle now even w/ stock exhaust.

As far as getting them out, mine were so worn it wasnt too hard. I put them in a press and the rubber came right out. Then i sawzaw'd the metal part

 

[Strm Trpr]

Ironically enough, i replaced mine because the timing belt motor mount was torn badly. I love them though, car sounds so badass at idle now even w/ stock exhaust.

As far as getting them out, mine were so worn it wasnt too hard. I put them in a press and the rubber came right out. Then i sawzaw'd the metal part

I casted urethane into my upper mount by the T-Belt.
I did both the casting and the BSE together, so the vibration at first was definitely noticeable.
But I too have a better sounding exhaust, it really rumbles now, and it's stock.....

 

[DSM Jeff]

full poly bushings with no balance shafts in a 2g is not bad. currently have them waiting to go in my 1g with my rebuild. i've done several types of bushings (motor and suspension, i have a full poly bushing kit on my 1g except the motor but trust me, they are all going in) and the easiest way i've found is to torch the old rubber and pop out the inner sleeve, then torch the rubber and then you a can work a screwdriver between the rubber and sleeve getting all of the rubber out in once piece. this leaves you with the sleeve. for me i just use an impact hammer with a chisel tip. this will rip right through that sleeve. you can just work the chisal around the shell crushing it in on its self and it'll pop out. another way is use a small chisel or hammer and go around the outside shell hammering it inwards. you can then use a press or rig up something to press the shells out.