Ecu HELP!!!!!!!!!

[talonfury]

I just had my ecu rebuilt last week by direct auto out of Michigan. I got it back on Thursday and drove the car around for about 2 days until it quit again. It is a 1990 Talon AWD. The shop said they test then rebuild, bench test, car test, then bench test again before sending it back to me. I guess what i am asking is the problems with the car could be caused by something else now. The symptoms are bad idle(anywhere from 2000 rpm's to stall). Stalling while driving for no reason. and now it will not start. Please help before i send my ecu off again. Thanks.

 

[ease]

talonfury,

I live in Auburn, AL too. I too have a 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. If you want I can take my ECU out of my car and put it in yours too see if the ECU is the problem or not. I just had a spare ECU too, but I sold it on E-bay about a month ago. Anyways, I have had the ECU problem too so I might be able to help you find out what the problem is.

Let me know if you want to try out my ECU.

E-mail me at [email protected]

ease,

 

[doug]

Wow, can't get any better than that! What are the odds?

 

[talonfury]

Well, I tried ease's ecu and nothing. So we no that it is not the ecu that is having the problem. I was wondering if someone could give me some troubleshooting for fuel pump failure or bad connections or just a bad fuel filter. The car will crank if i give it A LOT of throttle but will not stay on. It rattles really bad and then quits. Please help....thanks

 

[psychlow]

Try swapping your cam angle sensor.

 

[CYCLONE]

My 90 fwd had a similar problem. It would blow ECUs within
minutes of installing. Found out that a bad ISC can cause
the ECU to blow. After installing the 3rd one I unplugged
the ISC motor and that fixed it. Drove around for a few
days to make shure before putting in a new one. If you
take the cover of the ecu there will be burn marks on
some resistors and the board.

 

[talonfury]

Well, i have now tried ease's ecu, taking off the ISC and changing the fuel filter. Unless anyone has any other ideas, i am going to rewire the fuel pump, and if that does not cure it i am going to get a new fuel pump and if that does not work I am totally lost. Any suggestions???

 

[boost_dependent]

I am having this problem as well .... sent my ecu off because I replaced a lot of crap and still wouldn't start and run so they fixed the ECU put it back in and still does the same crap... so I started ohming sensors out and got to the maf. well it said to ohm between pins 4 and 6 I beleive and you should get 2.8ohms I got 3.4Kohms so I left the electrical connector off of the MAF and tried starting the car and what do you know it started and idled pretty good. I let it idle for about a min then while the car was still running I plugged in the MAF connector and the car stumbled and died! So I am assuming that the MAF is the cause! I will know maybe this weekend when i get the new MAF.

 

[CYCLONE]

Try the fuel pump relay also refered to as the MPI relay.
You should hear it click once when you turn the ignition key
and it should click again when the key is turned to the start
position. If you can hear the relay unplug the fuel pump and
connect a volt meter to the terminals, there should be battery
voltage at the terminals while the engine is cranking.

p.s. I have also seen on my friends car the pump wires that
go into the tank rust and come loose from the access cover
for the pump, just some think to look at before you spend
any money on parts.

 

[psychlow]

Originally posted by psychlow
Try swapping your cam angle sensor.

^^^^^^^