The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Stuck passenger side axle in 2G AWD

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bane3d

15+ Year Contributor
627
17
Aug 30, 2005
St Peters, Missouri
Please be nice, I'm learning as I go. I've come to the conclusion that if I want to keep this car, I have to learn everything about it and do all of my own repairs. I've managed to go from being a change my own brakes and oil guy to where I am now....

I've managed to document all of the electrical connections and pulled my engine. It's at a race shop being checked over and prepped to go back in. My issue is that I could never get my passenger side axle out. I tried every eveyrthing that I read and it still wouldn't pop out even with a pry bar. I ended up just breaking the clamp that holds the axle in to the cup and pulled the engine. I've had so many issues with the suspension on this from rotors fused to axles fused. So how do I remove the rest of the passenger axle? It won't just "pop" out like all of the posts say when you use a pry bar. I haven't tried to hard because I'm worried of breaking something. The cup turns easily with just a small tick when I spin it. Any help would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Get back on it with a pry bar. Thats really the only way
 
Try to use a couple prybars from opposite sides (180 degrees) if at all possible. When you use just one prybar it cocks it sideways and doesn't allow it to come straight out. If you get on both sides it will come right out. If for some reason this doesn't work, I have had luck with using a slide hammer with a 3 or 4-jaw puller or a chain attachment to to get onto the axle cup to pull it out as well.:) Good luck:thumb:
 
It takes a lot more pry than you think. But put your pry bar and give it a hard pop. Not gradual pressure, but a hard hit, rubber mallet on a pry bar works. If you can get two prybars one on opposite sides of the green cup it helps.
On that green cup, there is a shaft going into the transmission. That shaft has splines (groves going down the shaft), and near the end of that shaft is what is called a c-clip. The clip expands slightly once the axle is inserted making it so the axle doesn't come back out. Once you pop that axle out MAKE SURE THAT YOU FIND THAT C-CLIP! It is either going to be on that shaft of the green cup, or sometimes it breaks when your removing that axle and will be just inside the transmission where you can see it. Pretty sure its magnetic and if you don't see it put a mag tool to remove it.
Putting in the new axle takes the same effort, but with a slight change. Try to squeeze the c-clip (but don't bend it in any way!), and rubber mallet on the end of the axle with a straight hit pushing the axle into the transmission.
 
Keep trying with the pry bar, with quick pops on it. Rotate the axle cup as you go because the clip inside that holds it in really only lets go good at a certain angle range compared to gravity. Same for going back in. If there is no in and out play of just a fraction of an inch, then maybe you won't get it out.
 
Use a large pry bar and get it wedged right where i circled and smack the prybar with a 3lb hammer. that usually works best for me... i can push on it all day and it wont pop out but as soon as i smack it with a hammer it pops right out
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's the information I was looking for. Thank you. I'm really worried about screwing up the splines. I had the engine swapped out by a very reputable shop and it seized within 2 months of getting it back. I'm worried that the splines may be messed up when they put the axle back in. I'll take another stab at it though. If I still can't pop it, I may have to take it to my local transmission guy and have them do their magic.

You think they could have "mushed" the splines when inserting the axle and gave it back just to get it out of their hands?

I hope to have an update tomorrow on this.

d
 
The C clip that holds everything in is way softer than the splines. The aluminum case would break before the splines get messed up.
 
The C clip that holds everything in is way softer than the splines. The aluminum case would break before the splines get messed up.

What he said. The axle only goes in when the splines line up, once it buts up to that c-clip, it has to squeeze smaller to allow the splines to continue into the tranny. The c-clip is essential to keep the axle in the tranny. What you are going through right now to get that axle cup out is important because it is that same force that keeps the axle from coming out while going down the road, and fluid from coming out.

As stated above though it takes a sharp "pop" or quick jerk to get that axle out. Keep trying :thumb:
 
"Pop!" You guys are awesome. I guess when I was trying to remove it from the transmission while it was in the car, it was at an odd angle. One good whack with the rubber mallet and it was out. I think I just needed some DSMTuners mojo to put the fear in to my car. Needless to say I'm back on my way to getting this back up and running.

d
 
Be extra carefull putting the new axle in, it helps if you get it right up to the c-clip then squeeze it a little with needle nose pliars, then tap her in. If you can't get the pliars in there then just make sure when you tap it in with the hammer that you are watching the c-clip and it doesn't break before it goes in. Make sure your not smaking it too hard with the hammer or you can damage your new axle.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top