2G RVR vs. 2G AWD Trans (Auto) Compatibility

[zckry]

I've been seeing mixed options from all over the place on the compatibility between the JDM Mitsubishi RVR and '95-'99 USDM Mitsubishi Eclipse AWD automatic transmissions.

As some of you may already know, the RVR has almost all of it's powertrain parts exactly the same as the 2G Turbo Eclipse's minus some little things like turbo, intake manifold, throttle body, etc.

But one item that hasn't been cleared up is the issue of compatibility between the USDM 2G and JDM RVR transmissions.

Many of the JDM Importers sell RVR trans/t-case/inter. shaft as an "eclipse" trans/t-case/inter. shaft BUT some people have mentioned that the internal gear ratio's are different , the converter is slightly smaller, and the flexplate is different between the USDM and JDM trans'.

If this is true, the compatibility wouldn't be so great as you would have to swap internal parts from both trans' to get things to work properly in a 2G.

After looking around Google images and some eBay ad's, I noticed most of the RVR auto trans' have the serial numerical's of W4A33 stamped on them which is the same serial number on the 2G's trans'.
BUT I also noticed that the numerical's following the "W4A33" on the RVR's trans is typically 1UQ6 (So it's stamped as W4A331UQ6) while the 2G's have different ending numerical's. I wonder if those numerical's determine gearing ratio's and other info

Any help on clearing this up is greatly appreciated, I'll also be calling IPT on Monday to see if they can help.

EDIT: Just saw this thread too, but it still doesn't exactly clear up the compatibility/differences:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/automatic-tranny/341272-jdm-trans-95-talon-awd-auto.html

 

[TurboAnything]

I talked with IPT about the differences with the RVR trans and they had no answers. You do not have to swap any internal parts to make a RVR trans bolt up, you only need a 93-94 AWD flexplate and a you are good as long as you get the converter with the trans. The RVR is a 1g trans stuffed in a 2g case so it has no lockup function and a different converter(without lock up).

 

[zckry]

So could I essentially swap a 2G converter in it and retain the lock-up function?
Or do I need to swap the valve body as well?

 

[nikkeebabee]

The 2g convertor won't fit in the rvr case. You need the Trans, Flexplate, starter, T-case, wiring, Intermediate shaft, everything off the RVR for it to work. I don't reccommend it at all... I have done it before and it's a hassle for sure. I suggest just getting a USDM trans the bolts in and works without the BS

 

[Car Cannibal]

A local bought one of these from Eric Of Japan here and it was a disaster, I believe the comments above were the issues.

 

[rbwtrans]

It would seem to me that the 2g TCU would see an issue and possibly put the trans into limp-in without the lock-up solenoid. The TCU would see it an "open" in the system as the solenoid and wiring are simply not there. as far as "just putting a 2g torque convertor in"....that will not work as the valve body has a plug instead of a valve in the lockup valve bore, no solenoid or wiring in the connector, the input shaft is different, the pump is different, and the physical size of the torque convertors are different from one another and will not fit into the bellhousing (as far as the bellhousing fitment, I'm not absolutely positive, but I'm pretty sure). As far as I know, all of the 32's and 33's have the same ratio planetary gear sets, but the final drives (differentials) may be different between applications.

In short, x2 on just getting another 2g transmission or getting yours rebuilt.

 

[phillabaum03]

I'm working on my buddys 2g that has tranny issues, he's leaviso ng the car for me while hes away at the army. I believe the issuse is that he has a jdm tranny in it but im not 100 percent. The car goes into gear but you realy gotta get on it for it to budge a few feet. It seems like its slipping really bad. It does the same in reverse.

He said it bolted right up with the flex plate and torque coverter that came with the car. I wasnt there when he put it in so im unsure what the flex plate and torque converter looked like.

 

[AWD_Hybrid]

A VR4 1G has a higher ratio planetry gear set. 1st 2.846 - 2nd 1.581
The front diff is 72x20 - 3.6 & the t/c is 24x22 - 1.09090909*
An RVR has a lower ratio planetry gear set. 1st 2.551 - 2nd 1.488
The front diff is 71x20 - 3.55 & the t/c is 29x27 - 1.074074074*
I'm runing VR4 planetries in my RVR for the shorter legs in 1st & 2nd
Locked as fwd to run 50/50 front/rear

The RVR 3.55 front diff - 1.074 T/C - 3.307 rear diff - is the best match
The VR4 3.6 front diff - 1.09 T/C - 3.307 rear diff - is Mitsu's bigest F up
Using an RVR front crown & pinion & t/c is the Fix for a 1G VR4 driveline
Cheers !

 

[need2boostpsi]

Anyone put one of these RVR autos in a 1g? I've got it 98% in using kiggly flex plate, rvr torque converter and rvr transfer case. I used n/t auto motor mount brackets I used my awd m/t axles and did NOT have to clearance the frame rails. Made my own harness for full line pressure. My only issue is sourcing a trans mount bracket for the RVR. Anyone know what bracket works?

 

[jrohner]

I'm working on my buddys 2g that has tranny issues, he's leaviso ng the car for me while hes away at the army. I believe the issuse is that he has a jdm tranny in it but im not 100 percent. The car goes into gear but you realy gotta get on it for it to budge a few feet. It seems like its slipping really bad. It does the same in reverse.

He said it bolted right up with the flex plate and torque coverter that came with the car. I wasnt there when he put it in so im unsure what the flex plate and torque converter looked like.

Are you sure it's slipping and not just in limp-mode, which would mean taking off in 3rd gear? I guess that wouldn't explain reverse, but my car often doesn't back up (or go forward) right away if going right from park to reverse or forward -- if I leave it in neutral for a couple seconds first it's fine. Chrysler's are known for this issue as well; the fluid does not circulate the same in park as neutral evidentally.

You're checking the fluid level in neutral not park right? Some repair manuals even incorrectly state to check in park.