Hey guys. I have read all 30 pages of the holset turbo thread and I was so impressed. I have recently been looking into a bigger turbo since I have almost maxxed out my 16g.
(*I don't accept any responsibility for any mistakes or problem you might make*)
So I decided to sign up on the cumminsforums.com and look for a turbo. I found a WH1C with 30k and was ran at stock boost for 150 bucks shipped. The WH1C is pretty much a HX35 but with a v-band comp cover. It is an 8 blade wheel and will bolt right in the HX35 BEP housings.
My kit i put together consists of
-WH1C
-BEP 55. ar bolt on housing
-PR o2 housing w/
-tial 38mm recirced
-FP race mani.
Other hardware is is
-Ebay t3 oil drain fitting.
-6 inches of oil resistant hose 3/4(19mm) I bought it from napa
-Stock 2g oil drain. (2g oil drain is bigger than the 1g)
-4an SS oil feed line.
-Oil feed fittings
-My boy chris hooked me up with the oil feed off the OFH fitting. Its the one that came with the extremepsi kit.
-I made my oil fitting into the turbo. I used I believe a 3/8 inverted flare fitting that reduced down to 1/4 inverted flare. I drilled out the old thread and made it a regular flare fitting and then rethreaded it with a 1/4 npt tap, then got a 90* 1/4 npt fitting and it matted with my 4an line. I will post pictures and i will also verify the fittings. I did this 2 weeks ago so im alittle rusty..
- couple feet of radiator hose
-4 m8x1.25x20 cap bolts.(Tial wastegate bolt size)
-2 1/2 bolts 1 3/4in long w/ 2 lock washers and bolts( o2 housing to exhaust.)
-1 2.5 exhaust gasket
-1 14mm x 1.5 bolt that needs to be short or cut
-2 m10 bolts for oil drain to turbo/ 2 m8 bolts for oil drain to pan
-copper spray
-Black RTV gasket maker(high temp)
Ok I only had my phone to take pictures so i will try to be as detailed as i can on the install. Im defidently going to express myself so that the people attempting this install have some knowledge in removing turbos/working on turbos ect..
Before we start. The WH1C also has a V-band cold side discharge so to fit a normal coupler you need to grind the lip down.
First i took out both my fans so it is WAY easier to work on everything in the engine bay.. Pull everything off turbo related. Intake, oil feed line, oil drain, the works.. When you get your turbo and everything off you should have a bare front side of the block..
Ok now the work begins.. The coolant line that threads into the block has to come out to fit a compressor this big. What i did was remove the old banjo bolt and collant line. I went to my hardware store and bought the shortest 14mm x 1.5 bolt they had and cut it down to size. What i did was put a nut on the bolt and loosened it maybe a turn and cut it flush with the nut.. The nut will then rethread the bolt as you turn it off.. Now you have to deal with the other coolant line. I literally had a extra bolt and i threaded it in the coolant line and when i got as far as I could I just hit it with the hammer.. I dont recommend this way but i didn't want to ruin it in case i went to a water cooled turbo in the future.. When you get that finished you might as well start denting your water pipe(*I don't accept any responsibility if anything breaks*) I guess I did not understand how much you have to pound on it to get it to size. I spent a good 10 minutes banging on it and trying not to break anyhting. Here is a pic with the dented water pipe and the bolt in the coolant hole
I dont know if any of you will have to do this but i had to so i could clock my housing down enough to run my FMIC piping.. I grinded at the block alittle to make clearance for the comp cover.. the WH1C has a casting peice that sticks out that makes it a pain to clock the housing. The piece that is right in the middle of the pic where the tranny bolt goes into the tranny I grinded just a smidge.. Like i said i dont know if you will have to. *I also dont accept any responsibility*. I would test fit you set up to try to avoid this step i took..
Ok to make life easier assemble your whole kit minus the o2 housing/ oil drain to put the turbo. It is simply not easy or maybe possibly to try to put the turbo on the manifold in the engine bay.. When you get it in check and make sure you beat the water pipe enough.. You probably didn't so you can repeat the first step.. This is my turbo in and bolted up.. You can see how it wraps around my tranny and fits in there just soo perfect
Next i ran my oil feed line and got that finished.. I ran my FMIC piping and got it matched up.. It was awesome to fit up to a SSAC FMIC... All i needed was 2 more 2.5 couplers and 4 clamps and 1 2.5 90 degree pipe.. I cut it to size and it bolted right up..
Next I put on my Tial 38mm and o2 housing.. That was pretty simple to do with the turbo bolted onto the manifold.. You can try to assemble the whole thing the first time but it gave me room to install the oil feed ect.. I did the top 3 bolts from up top and the lowest bolt from the bottom.. I just used my old bolts since they were stainless but if you want new the bolt size is 10mm x 1.25 x 30-35.
Now i tackeled my oil drain.. What I did was when i was installing everything else I cut the 6in of oil drain tube down to about 5in.. (please test fit!!) I cut my 2g oil drain tube about 2in above the flex peice. I ran a bead of the gasket maker around the 2in of piping that you left on the 2g oil drain tube and put the 3/4 hose over that and clamped it down. Direction say to just snuggly tighten the fitting and let it sit for an hour and then really tighen her down. Remember be carefull not to tighten it to much as it will crush the thin metal. I then ran a bead around the t3 fitting and put the hose over that.. I didn't clamp it down yet so i could turn it.. It is a VERY tight fit when trying to install the oil drain to the turbo.. I ran a bead around the fitting where it matches up to the turbo and it takes 2 M10 bolts.. I wish i knew the thread pitch but i found some in my tool box that fit..
I bolted up the exhaust.. pretty easy and straight forward..
Now you got that to match up which ever way you went make sure there is no oil leaks.. Prime the turbo. Mine was used and I put oil in it before I put it on so its not a huge deal but it is always good to do. When you turn your car on you have very low oil pressure. I let the car warm up and rev it up alittle to get the oil pressure up. I had a leak when the t3 fitting met the turbo.. I tightened the fitting up and no leaks so far..
I am very happy with it.. The sound is hard to explain over the internet.. First time i drove it all i had was a smile on my face. Its no where near the sound of a 16g.. Its very loud and the BOV is nuts.. You can tell how much more air it pushes. The BOV is soo much louder and longer.
this is not finished.. I have to upload some more pictures and i will eloborate alittle more.. I think this should help you put a parts list together..
(*I don't accept any responsibility for any mistakes or problem you might make*)
So I decided to sign up on the cumminsforums.com and look for a turbo. I found a WH1C with 30k and was ran at stock boost for 150 bucks shipped. The WH1C is pretty much a HX35 but with a v-band comp cover. It is an 8 blade wheel and will bolt right in the HX35 BEP housings.
My kit i put together consists of
-WH1C
-BEP 55. ar bolt on housing
-PR o2 housing w/
-tial 38mm recirced
-FP race mani.
Other hardware is is
-Ebay t3 oil drain fitting.
-6 inches of oil resistant hose 3/4(19mm) I bought it from napa
-Stock 2g oil drain. (2g oil drain is bigger than the 1g)
-4an SS oil feed line.
-Oil feed fittings
-My boy chris hooked me up with the oil feed off the OFH fitting. Its the one that came with the extremepsi kit.
-I made my oil fitting into the turbo. I used I believe a 3/8 inverted flare fitting that reduced down to 1/4 inverted flare. I drilled out the old thread and made it a regular flare fitting and then rethreaded it with a 1/4 npt tap, then got a 90* 1/4 npt fitting and it matted with my 4an line. I will post pictures and i will also verify the fittings. I did this 2 weeks ago so im alittle rusty..
- couple feet of radiator hose
-4 m8x1.25x20 cap bolts.(Tial wastegate bolt size)
-2 1/2 bolts 1 3/4in long w/ 2 lock washers and bolts( o2 housing to exhaust.)
-1 2.5 exhaust gasket
-1 14mm x 1.5 bolt that needs to be short or cut
-2 m10 bolts for oil drain to turbo/ 2 m8 bolts for oil drain to pan
-copper spray
-Black RTV gasket maker(high temp)
Ok I only had my phone to take pictures so i will try to be as detailed as i can on the install. Im defidently going to express myself so that the people attempting this install have some knowledge in removing turbos/working on turbos ect..
Before we start. The WH1C also has a V-band cold side discharge so to fit a normal coupler you need to grind the lip down.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
First i took out both my fans so it is WAY easier to work on everything in the engine bay.. Pull everything off turbo related. Intake, oil feed line, oil drain, the works.. When you get your turbo and everything off you should have a bare front side of the block..
Ok now the work begins.. The coolant line that threads into the block has to come out to fit a compressor this big. What i did was remove the old banjo bolt and collant line. I went to my hardware store and bought the shortest 14mm x 1.5 bolt they had and cut it down to size. What i did was put a nut on the bolt and loosened it maybe a turn and cut it flush with the nut.. The nut will then rethread the bolt as you turn it off.. Now you have to deal with the other coolant line. I literally had a extra bolt and i threaded it in the coolant line and when i got as far as I could I just hit it with the hammer.. I dont recommend this way but i didn't want to ruin it in case i went to a water cooled turbo in the future.. When you get that finished you might as well start denting your water pipe(*I don't accept any responsibility if anything breaks*) I guess I did not understand how much you have to pound on it to get it to size. I spent a good 10 minutes banging on it and trying not to break anyhting. Here is a pic with the dented water pipe and the bolt in the coolant hole
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I dont know if any of you will have to do this but i had to so i could clock my housing down enough to run my FMIC piping.. I grinded at the block alittle to make clearance for the comp cover.. the WH1C has a casting peice that sticks out that makes it a pain to clock the housing. The piece that is right in the middle of the pic where the tranny bolt goes into the tranny I grinded just a smidge.. Like i said i dont know if you will have to. *I also dont accept any responsibility*. I would test fit you set up to try to avoid this step i took..
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Ok to make life easier assemble your whole kit minus the o2 housing/ oil drain to put the turbo. It is simply not easy or maybe possibly to try to put the turbo on the manifold in the engine bay.. When you get it in check and make sure you beat the water pipe enough.. You probably didn't so you can repeat the first step.. This is my turbo in and bolted up.. You can see how it wraps around my tranny and fits in there just soo perfect
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next i ran my oil feed line and got that finished.. I ran my FMIC piping and got it matched up.. It was awesome to fit up to a SSAC FMIC... All i needed was 2 more 2.5 couplers and 4 clamps and 1 2.5 90 degree pipe.. I cut it to size and it bolted right up..
Next I put on my Tial 38mm and o2 housing.. That was pretty simple to do with the turbo bolted onto the manifold.. You can try to assemble the whole thing the first time but it gave me room to install the oil feed ect.. I did the top 3 bolts from up top and the lowest bolt from the bottom.. I just used my old bolts since they were stainless but if you want new the bolt size is 10mm x 1.25 x 30-35.
Now i tackeled my oil drain.. What I did was when i was installing everything else I cut the 6in of oil drain tube down to about 5in.. (please test fit!!) I cut my 2g oil drain tube about 2in above the flex peice. I ran a bead of the gasket maker around the 2in of piping that you left on the 2g oil drain tube and put the 3/4 hose over that and clamped it down. Direction say to just snuggly tighten the fitting and let it sit for an hour and then really tighen her down. Remember be carefull not to tighten it to much as it will crush the thin metal. I then ran a bead around the t3 fitting and put the hose over that.. I didn't clamp it down yet so i could turn it.. It is a VERY tight fit when trying to install the oil drain to the turbo.. I ran a bead around the fitting where it matches up to the turbo and it takes 2 M10 bolts.. I wish i knew the thread pitch but i found some in my tool box that fit..
I bolted up the exhaust.. pretty easy and straight forward..
Now you got that to match up which ever way you went make sure there is no oil leaks.. Prime the turbo. Mine was used and I put oil in it before I put it on so its not a huge deal but it is always good to do. When you turn your car on you have very low oil pressure. I let the car warm up and rev it up alittle to get the oil pressure up. I had a leak when the t3 fitting met the turbo.. I tightened the fitting up and no leaks so far..
I am very happy with it.. The sound is hard to explain over the internet.. First time i drove it all i had was a smile on my face. Its no where near the sound of a 16g.. Its very loud and the BOV is nuts.. You can tell how much more air it pushes. The BOV is soo much louder and longer.
this is not finished.. I have to upload some more pictures and i will eloborate alittle more.. I think this should help you put a parts list together..
