Supra SMIC Install Guide - "Long Version"

[DSMunknown]

PARTS NEEDED:


*MKIV Supra SMIC (just clean the damn thing with whatever lowest octane rating fuel you can purchase at the local gas station)

*Two 2.5 inch inside diameter couplers (about 4 inches long). One should be a straight coupler, and the other should be a 45 degree angled coupler.

*OEM Supra air duct (do not use your DSM air duct unless you absolutely must!)

*Two 2.5-to-2.25 inch exhaust adapters (about 3.75 inches long. I paid $2.09 for each)

*Regular durable duct tape

*Zip ties (not a must but they're always nice to have around)

*A box cutter or scissors to cut the excess from the zip ties

*Brode UICP (if some idiot wishes to try this install with the stock POS, all I can say is good luck. I doubt it will work because there does not seem to be adequate room for 2 clamps. read on)

*As David suggests, one should paint at least the flange, to prevent rust. You can, but it is not mandatory for THIS install

*Any recirculating BOVs except for the Greddy Type-S or Type-RS. I do not recommend either of these for this install (I will show you why).

*Make sure you have plenty of clamps that will fit around 2.5 inch and 2.25 inch piping! If I am counting correctly, I am using 24 clamps between the throttle body and the compressor housing. I had to combine six 2.25 inch (or smaller) clamps to fit around certain places. If you consider the combined clamps to be one clamp each, then I am currently utilizing 18 clamps between the throttle body and the compressor-side housing.

*A new BOV return tube. I was going to suggest that you go out and find one that is appropriate for your particular set up AFTER you finish this install, but I will assume for now that you will follow this guide closely, and therefore the location of your BOV will be close to the position of my BOV.

*Hammer

*Flathead screwdriver (you want the tip of the screwdriver to be about as wide as one of the securing teeth on the SMIC)

*One jack

*One jackstand

*A clean garage towel

*Goo Gone (not absolutely necessary. Read on)

*Weather stripping

*Some sort of metal or plastic guard that allows better airflow. Read somewhere else for this.

*Time =P

*Patience =P



Let me start off by saying it has been a long time coming. The VFAQ link to the 2G Supra SMIC install has been down for the longest time. The 2G owners have been neglected in this respect. Well, no longer! I will walk you through each step I deem appropriate and necessary. It pains me to do so, because I have already completed the install, so taking time out of my own schedule indicates how much I care that this guide gets up and running. I have taken many, many, many photos for your convenience. I (like many of you) am a very visual person. I will take and add as many pictures as I deem necessary. I am also adding other DSMers' photos to show similarities and differences. Additionally, this guide will illustrate that cutting up your car is not necessary!! You will not need a saw-zall or anything of the like. It may be a different story for the 1G owners, but not for the 2G people! This myth of "you must cut up your car to get the Supra SMIC to fit" is simply untrue. Just to comment on the DSMTuners moderator who decided to change my original title, this write-up is not the "Long Version". It should be more appropriately be called the "Thorough Version" or the "Detailed Version". Well, here we go.




Below is a graph charting out the gain on a 14b turbo. The green line is on the OEM SMIC. The red line is on the Supra SMIC. The blue line is on the Supra SMIC and nitrous oxide.

[DSMunknown]

I purchased my Supra SMIC from Powerhouse Racing. Jarrett Humphreys was a good guy to deal with. He is currently the president/CEO of the company. I got the intercooler, duct, and the Supra brackets for $150. I did not get the two couplers with this purchase. I tried to be innovative in my next purchase. I bought the Supra piping for $50. This was a waste of time, money, and energy. I do not recommend purchasing the MKIV Supra intercooler pipes.

[DSMunknown]

I recommend buying two 2.5 inch silicone couplers instead (that is, if you do not get the couplers with your original purchase). Hell, even if you DO get the two necessary couplers I am going to recommend getting two additional 2.5 inch silicone couplers to replace the couplers that you got. Why? Because the OEM Supra couplers were fabricated for the use of only one clamp.

For example, take a look at the first picture below. Notice that there are two indentations on the coupler. Only two clamps are supposed to be on that coupler. When double clamping, this means that there will be four clamps on each coupler (aka two on one end of the coupler and two on the other end).

Before I forget, I strongly recommend you double-clamp practically everything associated with this install. Personally, I wouldn't care if I had all the T-clamps I could possibly need. I would double-clamp everything. Therefore, since the OEM Supra couplers were fabricated as such, it is not very comforting that one of the two clamps will not have the best "hold" as it should have.

Here are some photos of the two MKIV Supra couplers that I utilized. The first four photos are of the coupler that attaches the exhaust adapter to the bottom end tank. The other photos are of the coupler that attaches the other exhaust adapter to the top end tank.








The photo below shows the outside diameter of the Supra coupler (if you have bad eye sight, the OD is 3 inches)


The photo below shows the inside diameter of the Supra coupler (if you have bad eye sight, the ID is 2.5 inches)







This coupler is the one that fits through the infamous hole (the hole that nearly everyone says must be cut).

[DSMunknown]

Five photos of my previous BOV return tube. For those that care, the code in the fourth photo on the tube reads as EXV33498 0127. In the fifth photo the code begins with 5B2 and then is unclear until OMH20 M then it becomes unclear again.

[DSMunknown]

In these next four photos, they will show two identifying stickers. The first is the chrome-looking tube I picked up from Home Depot. The second is from one of the two exhaust adapters I used.

On the Watts sticker, the code above the bar code is 0143231. On the other sticker, the smaller code above the bar code is 07518 12-8573-0. In the upper right hand corner of the same sticker it reads 2 - ½" ID and 2 - ¼" OD. I did have to modify (aka cut) the chrome-looking tube to make it fit correctly, but I only did this over 2 months after finishing the Supra SMIC install. Before the pipe I used the radiator tube.








Here is what the exhaust adapters will look like (not my adapters)

[DSMunknown]

Here is a shot of what I had over six months before I did this install. This also shows the placement of my Brode pipe, intake pipe, intake filter, BOV, BOV return tube, the MAS wire harness/connector, fuse box and the second half of the UICP.



As you can see, everything is very "open" and spacious. BTW this photo was taken with a different, more expensive, higher quality camera. However, while this particular camera is still at my disposal, it is not a digital camera. It would cost a whole lot to buy a bunch of expensive film, bring the reels of film to the local photo shop, and then pay for them to put the photos on CDs just to have high quality photos for the guide. Here is a shot of what the same location in my engine bay looks like now:

[DSMunknown]

Here is the box that the intercooler and air duct came in. I placed a basketball next to the box so you can get an idea of how big it was.






I was quite impressed with the packaging. If anyone is wondering, I purchased the Supra intercooler piping as a separate order (about a week after I bought the intercooler) so it came in a different box. The intercooler piping did not come in this box. There was only one (perhaps) major flaw in the packaging. There were Styrofoam pieces inside both end tanks. I wanted to make completely sure I got all of the Styrofoam out, so I took the time to take off BOTH end tanks. I am glad I did. For one, there was a fair amount of Styrofoam stuck in both end tanks, and no amount of shaking would have gotten them out. I was not about to stick something in there to try to shimmy them out, in fear of damaging some of the fins on the inside of the intercooler.

Secondly, I found out something that I had not heard of before as being a possible (and perhaps slight) concern. Look at the photo below:



As you can see, there is a yellow line and a red line in the above photo.

I will be refering to this end tank as the "lower" end tank. If you are that lazy and MUST only take off one end tank (to flip it), please take off this one. There is some serious gunk and grime that has accumulated over the years in the corner of the intercooler. The yellow line indicates where I found a slight-to-moderate amount of grime. The red line indicates where I found a moderate-to-heavy amount of grime. When taking off the end tank, please be careful. There is a rubber gasket between both end tanks and the intercooler. You do not want to rip/damage these.

From what I have read, most people flip the "top" end tank. Only in one instance have I heard of someone taking the extra effort to take both end tanks off, but that was when the individual was having a shop fabricate custom metal end tanks for his Supra SMIC. I don't know if he actually took the end tanks off himself. I doubt it. I assume he had them taken off, in order for the shop to get an idea of what they needed to do.

Anyways, after I saw how much oily slime there was between the intercooler core, rubber gasket, and end tank, I decided to hand wash the rubber gasket and do the same to the opposite end tank. Lets just be clear- there wasn't a TON of slime here, but there was enough for me to mention it for anyone who cared. And the gunk was thick and somewhat hardened. I had to take a screwdriver and scrape off the gunk by hand.

Here is a photo just for a quick reference of what the Supra SMIC core looks like with an end tank off (definately not my Supra SMIC):


Just a note here: when scraping this gunk off, and when cleaning the actual end tank, take a screwdriver and a clean shop towel and combine their powers. Take the towel, and fold it over so that it will act as if there were two towels at work. Now put the end of the screwdriver somewhere on the double-padded towel (probably in the middle) and go to work. I found that if you do not fold the towel over, the screwdriver will quickly push right through the threading of the towel. Using this screwdriver-and-towel method is useful because the screwdriver will be taking off the scum, and the towel will be picking it up. Just in case you were wondering, the towel should be dry.

That stuff would not come off with a few swishes of gasoline. One the other hand, I doubt that this grime was an interference to the performance of the SMIC, but nevertheless I decided to be thorough. Remember the Styrofoam from the box? Well, there were small pieces that were near the fins on the inside of the intercooler, and a few that were a quarter of an inch down the holes. It seems too optimistic to say that I got ALL of the little pieces, but I did what I could. Before you put the end tank back on, take a clean rag to it and wipe off the oil on the inside of each end tank. I should assume that the gasoline would get that, but I will suggest it anyways. There are a few crevices where oil has accumulated, and only a screwdriver and a towel can get at it.

Just a side note about cleaning the intercooler. I don't know why there seems to be some hysteria in some people about using fuel to clean the intercooler out. I strongly suggest (as do other people who have done write-ups on this process) that you do this at least a day before you plan on doing the install. Stop b**ching about wanting to clean the intercooler out and installing/reinstalling it on the same day. You also need (or should) set some time aside to fix the fins and set them straight. It IS time consuming. If you plan on installing the intercooler on the weekend, and you get the intercooler in the middle of the week, get it ready for the weekend. Don't wait and try to rush the drying process. If you get the intercooler on the weekend and wanted to install it in the same weekend, lay off the installment and just get it ready for another time. Life will go on. If you rush the process, you can damage something and may end up spending a lot more than if you just simply waited. Try thinking of the old adage "good things come to those who wait" or "patience is a virtue."

Just another thought- while each end tank is off, I suppose you could use JB Weld to seal the end tanks to the SMIC core. I don't see this as being something necessary, but you may. If you have the appropriate funds, I would suggest instead that you have a local trusted shop fabricate custom end tanks for your Supra SMIC core. The first thing this would do is put your mind at ease to the thought of shattering your plastic end tanks on the road. Secondly, it will provide an improved SMIC that will perform better than the original. Thirdly, it will allow you to request the shop to add custom brackets to line up with the original bracket holes. Fourthly, it will allow you to have the end tank pipes placed and angled to your liking. Fifthly, it will allow you to have the end tank pipes fabricated to be longer than the original (so that you have more room to double clamp the couplers on).

Here are two photos of what I am talking about (not my SMIC). As you can see, one end tank has been custom fabricated but the other side has not. If you are going to go this route, I suggest you do both end tank sides.





Before I forget to mention, as you can see in other Supra SMIC pictures, the brackets on both end tanks are plastic. I have seen some people attach exhaust straps (like the one seen in the below photo) to these plastic brackets. Now, I am well aware that I currently have zip ties holding these plastic brackets to parts of the car, but those are only for emergency situations. Again, I am confident that the double clamping will do the job quite well (meaning, double clamping won't allow the Supra SMIC to fall from the car and end up on the pavement). Here is what I am talking about (not my photo):

Make a judgment call here. If you don't feel completely confident that the double clamping method will hold your Supra SMIC in place, then do what you must. I won't be offended =P

[DSMunknown]

Please take off both end tanks. Have some patience and time. This goes back to not rushing and doing things properly. I will assume you have now taken the flathead screwdriver and pushed up all the teeth on one side of the intercooler, so that you will be able to pull the end tank up without any interference from the teeth. Now carefully pull up on the end tank. You may have to pull more on one side for that side to un-stick. That's fine. Just don't be in a hurry. Part of the rubber gasket may still be sticking to the end tank in your hand, while the other part will still be sticking to the intercooler itself. That is to be expected. Just take your time and don't rush. After the rubber gasket is in your hands (that is, it is detached from the end tank and detached from the intercooler) I suggest you gently wash the rubber gasket with soap and water. Some may laugh at this. But this is what I did. There was a little bit of grime on the gasket, so I washed it. Dry it with a paper towel or a "clean" garage towel, and then set it aside (somewhere where you won't forget to put it on or step on it or rip it).

Here are a some photos of the process of lifting the teeth and pushing them back down.























When securing an end tank down with the metal teeth I suggest you use a pair of vicegrips. They will be able to push the teeth down to create a secure hold on the end tank. Adjust the vicegrip appropriately. What the hell does he mean by that? Well, I mean that you don't need to squeeze the teeth down so incredibly hard with the vicegrips that you damage something. I'm sure you can figure it out when you get to it. After doing this I am skeptical that one could seriously damage his SMIC. However, you need to use common sense.

Another thing about using common sense- MAKE SURE YOU ONLY FLIP ONE END TANK!! You do not want to flip one end tank and then forget you already flipped one, and flip the other end tank. This would, of course, result in your SMIC being basically the same. Furthermore, you would have to go back and flip one of the two to make the install more successful. Plus, you would have just wasted more time and energy than necessary.

[DSMunknown]

If you do not have a Supra SMIC as of yet but wish to know what these teeth that secure the end tanks looks like in real life, pop your own hood and look at your radiator.



These teeth are the same except in size (with the Supra intercooler teeth being larger).





In case any of you were wondering what regular durable duct tape looks like, here is a photo:

[DSMunknown]

Two photos of the vice grip I used (for any of you who are unsure what a vice grip looks like). I would suggest using a vice grip close to the size of the one in the above photo. As you can see, this one is about 7.25 inches long.






I also suggest that you secure the opposite side of the side you just secured. Is that confusing? I will try again. Look at the photo below (not my intercooler and not my feet):

As you can see, there are two longer sides and two shorter sides. Never mind that metal strap. Lets say you just secured all the teeth on the long side that the end tank hole is closest to. I suggest you then secure the opposite side (that is, the other long side that is closest to the guy's feet). Do the same with the shorter sides. After you think you secured all of the teeth down, go back and check every single one of the teeth. Every single one of them. Make sure they are not "sort of touching" the end tank, but that they are being useful. After you have finished completely securing one end tank, start on the other end tank.

[DSMunknown]

Now you should go out and purchase some gasoline. Get two gallons of fuel. I am, of course, assuming you have one of those portable gas tanks. They cost a few bucks at your local Hess or wherever. The price sticker is still on mine, and it reads $5.49. Here are three photos of what you will need to pick up some fuel from the gas station.





This particular portable gas tank is a 2 gallon size tank. So it was just what I needed.

Whatever the lowest octane fuel you can get at your local gas station is just fine. When you get back, I will assume you are ready to get down to business regarding the cleaning of the intercooler. Get the sturdy duct tape and tape off one of the end tank holes. I prefer taping off the "bottom" end tank. After you have taped it off, tape it off again. And then tape it off a third time. Trust me, you will need that much. After you have done that, get the portable tank and pour some fuel in. tape off the other end tank hole. You will only need to tape this side off once. Start shaking vigorously. Do a dance while you shake the SMIC to hell and back so all your neighbors can point and laugh. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area (aka outside).

You may notice that the air inside the intercooler is getting pressurized. I am certainly no scientist, so all I can do is speculate and perhaps provide an analogy. I assume what is happening is similar to what happens when you shake a bottle of Coca-Cola (unless you're into Pepsi =P). Just think of it in those terms. Anyways, after a good shaking, put the dirty fuel in a bucket or even some trash bags. Notice "bags" are in plural. This is what I did. I had a bucket, and put one trash bag inside of another. I used four trash bags. I had no problems with leakage. Some assume that the fuel would quickly eat away at the plastic. That has not been my experience. You also must be aware of proper disposal of the dirty fuel. Ask around for some help here if you don't know what to do with it.

Repeat this shaking process about four times. That means you should be using about a half of a gallon (whatever that equates to) per shaking. Actually, I may even suggest you use a bit more than that for your first couple of shakes.

Because the duct tape is so sticky, you might consider bringing in the Goo Gone.

You don't need this. Leaving the adhesive on the end tank pipes will not effect the efficiency of the SMIC. It's just nice to get off. You can use the screwdriver to puncture a hole through the tape, then use your hands to rip the rest of it off.

Here are four mock photos of what taping an end tank pipe will look like. This SMIC is of course the OEM 2G SMIC.




Just for your reference, the red circle in the below picture indicates which bracket the screw attaches to that gives most people a difficult time when trying to take the OEM 2G SMIC off.


When puncturing the tape, don't be a dummy and use a super-long screwdriver. You may use whatever you like here, just don't use something that could possibly damage the intercooler core. Any small tipped object should do the trick, like a pair of scissors.


After you are all out of fuel (yes, you should use all of it) go and thoroughly wash your hands and arms with soap and water. Put the SMIC down in the shade. Do not leave the SMIC in the sun. Let the damn thing sit overnight to evaporate as much of the fuel as possible. Remember that you don?t want to smell fuel inside your residence. Let the SMIC sit outside and chill. Make sure it will be a nice night out (aka not raining or snowing). I was worried about ants or some little bugs or critters getting in there. Don't be. It will be fine. And your pets (if you have any) should know enough to stay away from the evaporating fumes.

[DSMunknown]

As I previously stated, it is foolish for someone to try and use the OEM UICP. Here are a few pictures: