How to install a SS/Autochrome FMIC kit w/ Short route piping

GreddyGst · 03-12-2006, 05:50 PM

Introduction

Many have purchase the 2G SS/Autochrome FMIC kit w/ short route piping + 1g bov flange. So I wrote a step by step write-up. I can't complain about this intercooler, Measures at 28x10.5x3.5 same as a 2-216 identical to AGPTurbo FMIC Kits.

Been pressure tested at 50-60psi for 30min to an hour by some Dsmtuner members and I have it set at 25psi and I have dyno numbers to prove that is legit and works great. Check out the dyno pic at the end of this write-up.

Tools & Parts you need:

Ratchet with 10mm socket
5" Disk Grinder or dremel might work too (cut off tool)
2 nuts, 2 long 10mm bolts and washers
Black or Gray spray paint
10mm bolt (One that you might have laying around)
Some are missing 1 coupler and 2t-bolt clamps so get real silicone
couplers (Not home depot crap that will leak and rip)
Drill tool

Preface:

This is how the FMIC + Pipes looked when they arrive at my door. Welds look great and it was well wrapped.

Installation steps:

First, I'm assuming everyone knows how to remove their bumper correct? If not here is a link of How to remove 2gen bumper.
97-99 Front Bumper Cover Removal
Also, to make the installation easier. Remove the headlight which should only take a minute once the bumper is off. Here is a quick overview of how to remove stock oem headlight. 2 screws on back of the headlight, 1bolt on the top of the frame (visible) and 1 bolt on the bottom of the headlight which is hidding by the bumper (visible if the bumper is remove) Unscrew them all.

Finally lets start :)

Step1. Here is an overall picture of where the FMIC should stand and I have circled in red the things I took out. (Bumper support, headlight, fog lights) I use some wood to help me line up the FMIC. You do the same to help you line up intercooler.

Step2. When you mount the Intercooler you will know where to cut the frame. Take a sharpie and trace what you need to cut. Or just copy my trace is the same thing. ***Warning*** I left a note on the picture of what to be careful of… please read it.

Step3. This is just a warning picture of what is behind the frame. That bulky plastic has a bunch of wires inside. I suggest putting something behind the frame (A piece of metal or thick cardboard) in case you cut too deep. You can use a dremel tool to cut or just drill close holes all around the sharpie line and then trim it and *I suggest* to do a touch up with gray paint to prevent rust. *Note* The coolant reservoir needs to be remove along with the mount bracket (Simple to take out)

Step4. In this picture the frame is cut and allows you to move the FMIC closer inside. Now you have a better idea where to mount the FMIC and where to drill the holes for the two bars tabs and the upper tab.

This is the grinder tool to use.

Step5. When you take out the fog lights, there were 2 screws on the top. This is what we are using to mount the bar tabs. Don’t need to use both screw holes just one preferably the outer hole that is on the border of the frame. Then drill a hole on the FMIC tab matching the fog
light screw hole to fit a bolt in, several ways you can do this… Sharpie can help guide you or whatever you think can be useful to you. Then get a long bolt screw, washers and Nut at your local hardware. Washers for the bolt and the Nut goes between the tab and the frame so your power steering lines don’t touch your FMIC.

Step6. Here is how it looks from the other side. Just redo step5

Step7. Just wanted to show you why that nut or washers helps. In the picture it gave it a good enough space in between the power steering lines and intercooler. Most just screw it in and the lines end up touching the FMIC causing heat to melt through your FMIC leading to a leak. Also zip ties would help keeping the lines close together and away from the FMIC.

GreddyGst · 03-16-2006, 02:17 PM

Step8. On the bumper support. One actually matches the upper tab so all you do is drill a hole and get a bolt to screw it in. Now take the bumper support metal piece and grab a sharpie and cut little by little the bottom till you are able to fit the bumper support. Don’t cut too much, we want it to remain its purpose (To hold the bumper) DO NOT DITCH IT. Just make sure to cut little by little till is a very tight fit. Don’t worry about it touches the tab (Tab is thick and it won't cut through it) is good that it touches so it has something to hold on to.
*HINT* Once you finish cutting the bumper support piece grab a paint spray can (Black) and do a quick touch up to prevent from rusting and having the nasty brown rust on your FMIC which could lead to more rust.

Step9. Done! now you just match the intercooler pipes and your set to go. Looks good eh? :)

Once you finish the installation and look at your engine bay you going to wonder. 'Hey! what do I do with my coolant reservoir?!?!' haha, well many have relocate it to where your stock intercooler was mounted. In my case, I placed it where my cruise control was located (Is slanted but it works fine and is temporarily till I think of a clean look)

Cut/Trim the Bumper

Lastly putting the bumper back on. It won't fit because the FMIC is huge haha. My friend who is a fellow dsmtuner member (d3mo)let me borrow his grinder which was my best friend in this little project and worked perfect, grab the Sharpie too. Take the sharpie and trace a straight line (As straight as you can) around the FMIC area. I cut/trim 1" width off the bumper all around and a bit more on the sides but this can vary so I suggest you cut 1/2" and If still doesn't fit try cutting 1/2 (Most likely you will need to cut more on the bottom corner sides because it curves towards the FMIC).
**Note** I highlighted red the section that requires a bit more trimming (When cutting or trimming make sure to do it from the inside the bumper)

Also need to trim a bit the fog lights because the end tank of the FMIC on the passenger side touches the fog light and it needs space to clear

And the driver side has the intercooler piping so you need to trim a bit to clear it too.

*Optional* While your cutting and trimming the bumper. Why not cut the black plastic piece? More flow for the FMIC and looks good too. Is simple to cut it. Take your dremel tool and cut on the border of the black plastic piece. If you cutting from the back take a sharpie and trace it because the back of the bumper is all the same color. Very simple just take your time and don't cut too far off, just follow your trace.
**Note** I highlighted red the section I cut. That's where the black plastic piece used to be.

Additional things:
Things you should know about the kit, first off. Everyone is missing 1 coupler and 2 T bolt clamps.
Throttle body flange needs to be resurface. Seems like whoever makes this kits resurfaces the flange and then welds it to the pipe but it should be done the other way around(Heat exposure to the flange upon welding makes the flange uneven). So if it looks uneven I highly recommend to resurface it at any machine shop (Shouldn't cost more than 5bux) to prevent leaks.
And most importantly the Crash bumper piece. I'm not putting mines back on because I can't find it and I took it out a while back when I installed my 24R Greddy. Those that still have I'm sure you can modify the crash bumper and trim it to fit the Intercooler. I'm looking into getting a metal bar as a crash bumper and weld it to each side of the frame. Look for it as an update later on.

***Mustang Dyno Results***
My Dyno results turned out really nice. 404whp @ 6517 and 343.4 Torque @ 5645 (Never knocked). Boosting 25psi pump gas. I do have a great setup to back it up so that helps and I'm still using the stock 7-bolt motor with 112xxx miles :) The stock motor is capable of a lot of power. I decided to stop at 400whp because I want to enjoy that for a bit, I could of done more but 400 is enough for now. In Dynojet is ~450whp :)

If I missed anything or have any questions. Let me know, send a PM or Email.