Let's face it the OEM headlights suck! Most people swap in HID kits which is the wrong way to go about HIDs. Our halogen reflectors were designed for halogen bulbs, not HID capsules. The light produced from an HID capsule omits differently then that of our factory halogen bulbs. So do yourself and other drivers a favor and steer clear of HID kits.
This how to will cover retrofit stock headlights with HID projectors. I'll be covering how to use OEM or OEM style projectors like FX-R, FX-35s, TSX, S2000, etc. This article WILL NOT cover retrofitting Mini H1 or D2S projectors
In my pictures you will see TLs, do not use them as they are HUGE and are quite a pain to fit into the headlights. You will notice I had to cut the actual headlight housings to fit them, you will not have to with other projectors. I'm using 2Ga headlights but it's the same using 2Gb ones.
Parts needed:
Projectors of your choice
Ballasts
Bulbs (I recommend Phillips or Osram)
Shrouds
OEM headlights
Tools:
Oven
Putty knife (to pry open the headlights)
Knife (to cut the butyl that seals the lights)
Drill
Some sort of 12V power supply
Hole saw (that will fit the projector)
Dremel and a cutting wheel
Wood or metal to build a jig
Saw (to cut the wood or metal)
Screws or bolts to put the jig together or a welder if you use metal and have access to a welder.
Level
Blue Painters Tape
You will need to decide on a way to mount the projectors; either bolts and a spring or epoxy. I prefer the bolt method as you have some rotational adjustment.
For bolts you will need:
3 bolts (2 about .5-1" long and 1 3" and a spring to fit it)
Spring for the long bolt
Finishing or rubber backed washers
Nylon Lock Nuts
Metal strapping for making L brackets
Tap (same thread as the bolts)
Drill bit (You need to check a tap chart to see which one will work with the size tap you have)
If you are using Epoxy use a Windshield epoxy (3M Window Weld for example).
Caulking gun
Step 1
Set your oven to the lowest setting, for mine it's 170. While it's heating line a baking tray with some wet towels and set the headlight on top. Remove all the bulbs and the metal clips around the housing.
When the oven is preheated put the light in for 10 minutes. Take it out after (use gloves like Mechanix ones). Then use the putty knife around the the edge where the lens and housing meet to pry the light apart. You might need the knife to cut the butyl sealant and you might have to put the light back in the oven again. Go slowly so as to not break anything. When done you are rewarded this this.
Step 2
Remove the reflector bucket from the housing. This done by loosening all the adjustment screws. 2 are Phillips and 1 is an Allen key.
Once they are all lose you can pop the reflector out.
Step 3
Time to build your Jig. Your reflector bucket will mount to it. You can avoid this if you go with screws and nuts but YOU MUST do this if you choice epoxy. However, even with nuts and bolts this is a good idea
There are reference lines on the reflector, use the level to level them up.
Step 4
Put a bulb back into the reflector, level the jig (again, make sure it is level and on level ground) and point it at a wall. Power up the bulb with the 12V power supply (spare battery or battery jumper will work).
Use tape to mark the halogen cut off.
Step 5
Get the drill and hole saw, it's time to start cutting! Line the hole saw up with the bulb hole and start cutting through it, go slow at first.
You're left with a nice round hole.
You will most likely need to notch the bottom of the reflector for the high beam solenoid (if you are using a Bi-Xenon projector). The Dremel will work perfect for this.
Time to test fit the projector, you want a nice tight fit if you are doing epoxy. The bolt and nut method it can be a little loose.
Step 6A
This will apply to epoxy only.
Put the projector into the the reflector bucket.
Install and level it back on the jig.
Load the bulb into the projector and hook up the ballast. Then connect the 12V power supply and turn it on.
Have your epoxy ready and in a caulking gun.
Line the projector up so it matches the tape line from the halogens.
Then run a thin bead of epoxy around the back and front of the projector where it touches the reflector. Leave the projector on to make sure the alignment doesn't change.
Let it sit for the recommended drying time.
You will end up with this.
Step 6B
This is for the bolt method. I will not talking about aiming with this method as it is the same as above.
Cut some strips of metal (about 1" IIRC) and bend them in half. Drill a hole in each side of the L. You can mount these on the top or bottom of the reflector/projector, depends on your projector (mine are on top).
Tap the hole in the side of the L facing the reflector. The other side will be bolted to the projector. You will also put a pitch screw in (I'll get more pictures of this to post up tomorrow).
Here's what it will look like.
This how to will cover retrofit stock headlights with HID projectors. I'll be covering how to use OEM or OEM style projectors like FX-R, FX-35s, TSX, S2000, etc. This article WILL NOT cover retrofitting Mini H1 or D2S projectors
In my pictures you will see TLs, do not use them as they are HUGE and are quite a pain to fit into the headlights. You will notice I had to cut the actual headlight housings to fit them, you will not have to with other projectors. I'm using 2Ga headlights but it's the same using 2Gb ones.
Parts needed:
Projectors of your choice
Ballasts
Bulbs (I recommend Phillips or Osram)
Shrouds
OEM headlights
Tools:
Oven
Putty knife (to pry open the headlights)
Knife (to cut the butyl that seals the lights)
Drill
Some sort of 12V power supply
Hole saw (that will fit the projector)
Dremel and a cutting wheel
Wood or metal to build a jig
Saw (to cut the wood or metal)
Screws or bolts to put the jig together or a welder if you use metal and have access to a welder.
Level
Blue Painters Tape
You will need to decide on a way to mount the projectors; either bolts and a spring or epoxy. I prefer the bolt method as you have some rotational adjustment.
For bolts you will need:
3 bolts (2 about .5-1" long and 1 3" and a spring to fit it)
Spring for the long bolt
Finishing or rubber backed washers
Nylon Lock Nuts
Metal strapping for making L brackets
Tap (same thread as the bolts)
Drill bit (You need to check a tap chart to see which one will work with the size tap you have)
If you are using Epoxy use a Windshield epoxy (3M Window Weld for example).
Caulking gun
Step 1
Set your oven to the lowest setting, for mine it's 170. While it's heating line a baking tray with some wet towels and set the headlight on top. Remove all the bulbs and the metal clips around the housing.
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When the oven is preheated put the light in for 10 minutes. Take it out after (use gloves like Mechanix ones). Then use the putty knife around the the edge where the lens and housing meet to pry the light apart. You might need the knife to cut the butyl sealant and you might have to put the light back in the oven again. Go slowly so as to not break anything. When done you are rewarded this this.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 2
Remove the reflector bucket from the housing. This done by loosening all the adjustment screws. 2 are Phillips and 1 is an Allen key.
Once they are all lose you can pop the reflector out.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 3
Time to build your Jig. Your reflector bucket will mount to it. You can avoid this if you go with screws and nuts but YOU MUST do this if you choice epoxy. However, even with nuts and bolts this is a good idea
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
There are reference lines on the reflector, use the level to level them up.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 4
Put a bulb back into the reflector, level the jig (again, make sure it is level and on level ground) and point it at a wall. Power up the bulb with the 12V power supply (spare battery or battery jumper will work).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Use tape to mark the halogen cut off.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 5
Get the drill and hole saw, it's time to start cutting! Line the hole saw up with the bulb hole and start cutting through it, go slow at first.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You're left with a nice round hole.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You will most likely need to notch the bottom of the reflector for the high beam solenoid (if you are using a Bi-Xenon projector). The Dremel will work perfect for this.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Time to test fit the projector, you want a nice tight fit if you are doing epoxy. The bolt and nut method it can be a little loose.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 6A
This will apply to epoxy only.
Put the projector into the the reflector bucket.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Install and level it back on the jig.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Load the bulb into the projector and hook up the ballast. Then connect the 12V power supply and turn it on.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Have your epoxy ready and in a caulking gun.
Line the projector up so it matches the tape line from the halogens.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Then run a thin bead of epoxy around the back and front of the projector where it touches the reflector. Leave the projector on to make sure the alignment doesn't change.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Let it sit for the recommended drying time.
You will end up with this.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 6B
This is for the bolt method. I will not talking about aiming with this method as it is the same as above.
Cut some strips of metal (about 1" IIRC) and bend them in half. Drill a hole in each side of the L. You can mount these on the top or bottom of the reflector/projector, depends on your projector (mine are on top).
Tap the hole in the side of the L facing the reflector. The other side will be bolted to the projector. You will also put a pitch screw in (I'll get more pictures of this to post up tomorrow).
Here's what it will look like.
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