What's goin' on, this is an article showing how I fastened my aftermarket 3 gauge trim to the A-pillar of a 2G
*You are on your own with the effects/consequences of this modification if something were to happen. I'm not responsible if you don't consider any excess temperatures, extreme vibrations or heavy gauges. I live in a colder state where we can't cook eggs on sidewalks, I don't drive like the Dukes of Hazzard, and my gauges are pretty lightweight.
The Velcro method may be somewhat tedious for some but the rewards are a sleek look, evenly secure and on-the-fly removable. Some say this piece must be placed over the factory trim. Some say to get rid of the original piece and secure to the frame. Either route you go there are a few methods available, such as using- screws, clips, double sided tape, Velcro, etc. I chose to ditch the factory trim piece and use Velcro since I never liked modifying anything original to the car.
Tools for painting to match dash:
~Coarse sandpaper
~Paint of choice
~Clearcoat
Tools for installation:
~*2 feet of the hook side Velcro and 2 feet of the loop side Velcro
~Razor, angled type will permit easier working in smaller space
~Little bit of heat for the scchhticky side of the Velcro
____________________
*IMPORTANT Using *general purpose* Velcro in hot regions will not work as the adhesive backing will fall off after the windshield becomes hot enough, especially while under weight. To combat this issue, 'high temperature' Velcro is needed. This is not limited to 'Velcro', since 'Velcro' is just a brand. Therefore you can go by these searches: High temp acrylic hook & loop, acrylic hook & loop, high temp hook & loop. Basically anything that mentions 'acrylic' and you'll be good to go, as this adhesive backing is typically rated to above 200*F. You can probably find the high temp stuff in an RV store, too.
Some brands I have found:
-Velcro adhesive 72
-Coil n Wrap 71
-3M makes a whole line of acrylic backed fastener, they also make 'Dual Lock' which is a little different locking method but same result. This is also typically the easiest to find online when you need to buy by the foot.
____________________
1. Painting:
First step is to remove the factory piece which has a few securing plastic tabs. I don't know how hard to pull on one that hasn't been removed before, but just slowly pull on the top working your way down so as not to bend the trim and possibly break something. Since the aftermarket piece won't match your paint for obvious reasons, take your factory trim to Ace, TrueValue, WallyWorld, etc and TRY to match the paint as best you can. It took me 3 color choices before I found one that came close, so just be patient.
Before painting I found my new trim to be awfully smooth so I took some rough sandpaper 200 grit (just what I had) and went to town. This is so the paint would adhere much better to the plastic. Interestingly, the texture afterwards actually matches the dash a little better. When done sanding, make sure to clean off the trim with a scrubber as the plastic dust doesn't surrender when just under a stream of rinsing water.
IMPORTANT DON'T PAINT YET This is the part where you stick Velcro to the trim. I used what I call a 'flat tire effect' so the Velcro has more surface area to grab onto:
You're going to need to cut the Velcro into sections since the trim has varying bends. The picture above shows the Velcro being folded over the edge of trim with an extra pocket of space. This is so when you press the trim to the windshield, it can squish outward giving more 'hooks and loops' as the pro's over at the Velcro factory
might say. I ran the Velcro completely from end to end so it would seal the gaps and be more sturdy.
Okay now you can paint however you want since I have the painting basics of a kindergartner -but I had luck with this. I used 3 light coats with drying times between. When done, spray a light clear coat but not enough to make it shine, just match it to the original trim piece. From applying the Velcro beforehand, the paint will take care of the Velcros black color, effectively making it blend into the trim piece.
2. Velcro the inside of windshield:
It just so happens there is enough of the outline tint to cover up what would have been seen as a hideous strip of Velcro. Take a look
This is probably the most annoying part where I had to use my non-existent contortionist skills to get the strip of Velcro in a straight line. Luckily you will be cutting out an outline so it doesn't have to be perfectly straight but getting the Velcro down in the corner near the dash proved to be difficult.
First clean up the inside of windshield for a nice clean surface using isopropyl aka 'rubbing' alcohol. Then get the sticky side of Velcro warm by placing in front of a heater. Now stick it where the dots are seen in the above picture. Take your trim piece and make sure it lines up right. If good, press out the air bubbles from the Velcro with a rounded edge, I used scissors handles.
Continue to follow the tinting dots up to the top of windshield. When you get everything lined up, stick the trim piece in and see how much excess to cut off so it's not obvious Velcro is there. Do this with a new sharp razor edge.
BE CAREFUL not to do so much pressure you scratch the windshield glass, it doesn't take much to see where you're cutting the Velcro.
After excess has been trimmed off:
Now run your wires and pull the slack through the gauge holes.
FINISHED!
If my calculations are correct, the assembly should stay in place allowing continued monitor of air/fuel, oil, and boost pressure in the midst of a rollover, Gravedigger running me over, tornado, or an act of God. Just kidding, but seriously this is one tough cookie to peel off.
