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1Gb to 1Ga..?

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TurboBlue

20+ Year Contributor
654
0
Oct 25, 2002
Canton, Connecticut
Anyone ever converted there 1Gb to a flip light, the radiator support looks like its all the same, but i could be wrong, i really havent researched it much, im sure it can be done, PITA or not that bad?
 
dont really need much wider of a mouth IMO

I love pop-ups during the day, i just hate them at night, something about the square headlights doesnt do it for me....
 

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I'm also looking into doing this. I have everything I need, but what about the wiring?
 
I cant believe theres people that want to go backwards. But I'll answer your question you'll need a hood, fenders and a bumper plus the headlights and marker lights, it will bolt right up but you'll have to remove your corner lens brackets that are spot welded to your radiator support. as for the wiring your on your own I have not done a 1gb to a 1ga wiring just the body swap to sell a parts car.
 
I like the look of the shorter lights on the 1ga. Especially blacked out.

You'll also need the useless dash switch so you can pop up your headlights for absolutely no reason what so ever. As for the wiring I'm not too sure but a relay and new 12v wire for the motor assemblies run off a relay tapped into the headlights should be the only difference. Maybe even the plugs for the light assemblies but they should just be cut and solder if anything.

I was thinking of cutting the back out of the turn signal lens and disconnecting the motors that way at night the pop ups don't pop up. They shine right through the turn signal lens.
 
I like the look of the shorter lights on the 1ga. Especially blacked out.

You'll also need the useless dash switch so you can pop up your headlights for absolutely no reason what so ever. As for the wiring I'm not too sure but a relay and new 12v wire for the motor assemblies run off a relay tapped into the headlights should be the only difference. Maybe even the plugs for the light assemblies but they should just be cut and solder if anything.

I was thinking of cutting the back out of the turn signal lens and disconnecting the motors that way at night the pop ups don't pop up. They shine right through the turn signal lens.

I also have the useless dash switch with that whole part of the dash.

As I said I have everything I need to get this done, just concerned with the wiring.

I would like the lights to pop up just as they would on a 1ga.

I have also thought about having them shine through the front clear plastics.
 
to do it right you probably need a dash harness, a chassis harness, and an engine compartment harness.

What the hell do you mean probably, if don't know then don't post.

When I removed the wiring from the 1ga it did not use all of that.

The wiring went into the fuse box under the hood then in the car to the buttons and switches.

The things is, is that the 1gbs do not the spot were the wires went to.

Do you know what is all involved in the chassis harness?

I'm not going to need that.

But thanks for nothing.
 
Full chassis harness? WTF:confused:ROFL

What's missing from the 1gb that was on the 1ga the relays for the headlight motors, and the fuse location? You should have everything else. Just reverse the process and add what is missing is all. They are just headlights. :thumb:
 
What the hell do you mean probably, if don't know then don't post.

When I removed the wiring from the 1ga it did not use all of that.

The wiring went into the fuse box under the hood then in the car to the buttons and switches.

The things is, is that the 1gbs do not the spot were the wires went to.

Do you know what is all involved in the chassis harness?

I'm not going to need that.

But thanks for nothing.



Fine if you don't want my information from years of experience with these cars than don't take it. I have a 1ga, and I tried to use a 1gb engine/chassis harness with my auto to manual swap, and it won't connect to the engine compartment/ front chassis harnes (whatever you want to call it) under the dash on the passanger side. The dash harness is differn't as well. If you want a hacked and butchered car, by almean just add a wire and a relay. Even so, theres way more to it than that.

You seem to know it all about these cars, so why are you asking questions?
 
He's changing headlights w/o motors to headlights w/ motors. You are right in saying that the harnesses are different but there is more than one way to do everything. But if he did a full harness swap he wouldn't be able to plug in his sensors as you found out so why would he do that?

Rewire it just the way you pulled it out of the 1ga and if something is missing your just going to have to add it.
 
He's changing headlights w/o motors to headlights w/ motors. You are right in saying that the harnesses are different but there is more than one way to do everything. But if he did a full harness swap he wouldn't be able to plug in his sensors as you found out so why would he do that?

Rewire it just the way you pulled it out of the 1ga and if something is missing your just going to have to add it.

no he would. the engine harness between 91+ should all be the same. the chassis harness( both parts the rear and the engine compartment part) are different As is the dash harness. The headlight motors are not just a simple deal of turn power on they go up, power out they go down.
 
Right 2 position motor, power source here up, power source here down. You are reversing the polarity in the coils of the motor. So if he needs to add relays he just needs to figure out where to put the Normally open contacts off the relay and the Normally closed contacts from the relay which he should have. This shouldn't in anyway affect motor harness wiring. Sometimes in order to get a project done you have to think outside the box. I'm a control electrician by trade so I understand wiring and electric dc motors. If he wants some help I'll pull the plugs on my motors and tell him what he needs to know, that's why were here. I didn't have a spot in my fuse block for my amp so I ran a fuse holder and tied it in to my battery. He might have to do the same thing for the headlights. I have never done the swap, but when he wires it up if the headlights come on and the motors don't run he'll have to swap a couple of wires because I bet when he turns them off they go up. I say kudos to him because the 1gb headlights are ugly. :thumb:

Just make sure if you do have to cut any wires to use solder and heat shrink tubing, this isn't anything crucial like sensors that rely on ohms so wire length doesn't matter as much. Just make sure that you use a separate source to run the motors than the wire currently going to your headlight because they are fused for just the headlights.
 
Fine if you don't want my information from years of experience with these cars than don't take it. I have a 1ga, and I tried to use a 1gb engine/chassis harness with my auto to manual swap, and it won't connect to the engine compartment/ front chassis harnes (whatever you want to call it) under the dash on the passanger side. The dash harness is differn't as well. If you want a hacked and butchered car, by almean just add a wire and a relay. Even so, theres way more to it than that.

You seem to know it all about these cars, so why are you asking questions?

It doesn't seem that you know too much about these cars, so please STFU and stop posting in this thread.

Do you know how to wiring it in or not, if not then I do not care what else you have to say.

He's changing headlights w/o motors to headlights w/ motors. You are right in saying that the harnesses are different but there is more than one way to do everything. But if he did a full harness swap he wouldn't be able to plug in his sensors as you found out so why would he do that?

Rewire it just the way you pulled it out of the 1ga and if something is missing your just going to have to add it.

Thank you for being intelligent crensinivon.

I am missing the fuse box that the 91 had. That is what was worrying me.

I know I can tap into some other wires, just haven't had the time to open up the wiring diagram yet.

As for bastarddsm, please stop posting in this forum as you have nothing to add.

Just as crensinivon said, if you already tried it and it didn't work then why would you tell me to use it.

I DO NOT as in DO NOT need the harnesses, and why would I use a different harness for 2 wires, that is a lot of wire removal.

It is just tapping into some other wires plus a rely and whatever else I will need.

I figured I would try here before I went through it.

If you have not done it and don't know how to do it then why are you telling me probably, as the rules state #3. Don't try to help if you don't know the answer - bad advice can be worse than no advice (no "I think" or "I guess" or "I've heard").
 
Right 2 position motor, power source here up, power source here down. You are reversing the polarity in the coils of the motor. So if he needs to add relays he just needs to figure out where to put the Normally open contacts off the relay and the Normally closed contacts from the relay which he should have. This shouldn't in anyway affect motor harness wiring. Sometimes in order to get a project done you have to think outside the box. I'm a control electrician by trade so I understand wiring and electric dc motors. If he wants some help I'll pull the plugs on my motors and tell him what he needs to know, that's why were here. I didn't have a spot in my fuse block for my amp so I ran a fuse holder and tied it in to my battery. He might have to do the same thing for the headlights. I have never done the swap, but when he wires it up if the headlights come on and the motors don't run he'll have to swap a couple of wires because I bet when he turns them off they go up. I say kudos to him because the 1gb headlights are ugly. :thumb:

Just make sure if you do have to cut any wires to use solder and heat shrink tubing, this isn't anything crucial like sensors that rely on ohms so wire length doesn't matter as much. Just make sure that you use a separate source to run the motors than the wire currently going to your headlight because they are fused for just the headlights.

Dude you are my new friend, LOL.

Really, thanks for what you have said, the above post is the idea I had in my head, and was worried about the old fuse box that I know now I shouldn't have to worry about, the other concern was the wiring for the headlights now.

I can just use the old wiring for the pop up lights but will have to tap into something else for the headlight motor itself.

I used to be an Electronics tech for the Navy, so I have previous experience with electronics.

Edit: I remember the motor wiring went to the fuse box under the hood then ran all the way into the car to the pop up button. I would like to have the pop ups pop up when I turn on the lights or push that pop up button.

Question is now where should I tap into for the motor to get some juice and what rely if any would you prefer I use.

Edit #2: I recently bought a 91 so I will go take a look at it, and see what I can found out without tearing up the car.
 
First things first would be y on the button it is pointless I can think of better things to do with a disguised push button. The only time I push that button is to pick on it. It could make a good kill switch for a fuel pump rewire or for a relay for a CAS kill relay. :thumb:

As for the motors pop the hood on the 91 look at the size of the fuse that it has and just run a direct wire from the battery to the motors. The relays should also be the same as the ones in the 90. I'll have to pop open a my haynes manual and look at the schematics, but you have every part number you need right there in that 91.
 
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