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Shaved Doors

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69_luv

15+ Year Contributor
522
9
Nov 3, 2003
Jacksonville, Florida
I posted a thread on advanced engine performance but thought I would try it on the exterior/interior side and see if I can get more information. I am trying to shave my door handles. I don't want the shaved door kit because it comes with the remote, wiring and everything, I only want the parts that go in the door itself. I want to use my aftermarket alarm(it has open features) to open my doors.
So does anyone know where I can get the poppers/cylenoids/or what not for a good price? What parts am I going to need? Does anyone know the steel that they use when filling the holes of shaved areas? I don't want to use aluminum because I have a wirefeed that doesn't weld aluminum. What size steel, and what kind/tencil strength and such.

Also I am trying to shave my rear tail lights. I would like to put Skyline tail lights in, or LED's. Has anyone seen any tail light conversions done with the LED's?

Thanks
 

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i do tis for a living, (paint and custom body) go to your local hi fi stereo place and buy an aftermarket trunk release cylinoide <-- i paint not teach english..hehe get one with the cable on it i have used this in 2 custom eclipses and many other applicatiopns...hope this helps...rus
 
So get the trunk cylenoid with wire, do I have to drill holes? Mount it inside the door and connect the wire to the door mechanism. Then what about popping the door open? What kind of steel did you use for filling the holes?

Thanks, and yes that is a lot of help, and probably a lot lot cheaper than the shaved door kits.
 
Try AUTOLOC, most of the common trunk release solenoids that most stereo shops use are crap.
 
I second autoloc (www.autoloc.com) They have some heavy duty solenoids available, and then some less heavy duty ones.. Pricing isn't bad. Had them on my previous celica I owned, and they are quite nice, and work properly.
 
well, ok then your stereo shops are cheap, i mean a reputable stereo shop, and anyways, on this aplication the strenghth of the selenoid isnt that important not alot of pressure here. so excuse me for being snappy about your "crap" stereo shops, but mabee you went to the wrong place :D

i built this in 98 it is a 97, note the doors, i will send you a list of parts and a how to if youll pm me a n e mail address...:thumb:
 

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also shaved the botom of the door where ground effects rail goes, and drip rail ontop of cab, here is a picture o my 85 chevy with those same crappy parts, ben driving it for about 3 yrs and not a problem one, check out the doors, ...
 

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Unless they are AUTOLOC they are junk, guaranteed.Even reputable shops have shitty ones, all the non AUTOLOC solenoids are manufactured by the same company.
 
that is rediculous... it is like saying that only bosh platinum 4 are the best all else is junk....ummm....i wouldnt run them if you gave them to me, in my drag car i run 99 cent each plugs. and still run an 11 , put in bosche and ran .1 tenths slower, that is your opinion and i respect that but come on more $$$ doesnt always mean better. and the ones i used are actually cliffford? dont know who made them dont care, they do the job and only cost about 25.00 apiece. i have had shaved door handles since i was a we pup about 14 years ago and have used ones from a refer trailer (thermo king) and have fount that this style is the easiest per aplication, autolock, audiovox, who gives a crap it is a plunger and a electromagnetic? b 4 real...ok....no disrespect but honestly give me supporting details besides , my budies budy over ther who is kend to so and so said that???? show me proof one is better than the other and i will shave your doorhandles...:laugh: :shhh: :p
 
It's simple, the "trunk release solenoids" aren't made to be used multiple times every day.Why take chances and save $10, to have problems entering your vehicle at some point?
 
I have been an alarm installer for over a decade, I have had problems with all solenoids other than the autoloc ones, and I mostly use them for actual trunk release solenoids(so they were only being used a fraction of the time compared to using them as door poppers)
 
Thank you all for your postings. I value each person's opinion because most of you have been in the places that I am asking. I will research the prices of autolock(just curious our doors are not heavy so how many pound cylenoid should I look at), and I will call my local stereo pad and ask them about trunk poppers.

Can I use just about any 16g steel to shave with? Or should I get a particular kind of steel? I am using a wirefeed welder and can't use aluminum. Wish I could afford a tig welder.

Again thanks for all your input. Does anyone have any pics of the install of the cylenoids or poppers?

Thanks
 
Originally posted by dj_u4ea
well, ok then your stereo shops are cheap, i mean a reputable stereo shop, and anyways, on this aplication the strenghth of the selenoid isnt that important not alot of pressure here. so excuse me for being snappy about your "crap" stereo shops, but mabee you went to the wrong place :D

i built this in 98 it is a 97, note the doors, i will send you a list of parts and a how to if youll pm me a n e mail address...:thumb:

wow that color is awesome! it reminds me plum crazy purple from a 70 'cuda
 
Originally posted by 69_luv
Thank you all for your postings. I value each person's opinion because most of you have been in the places that I am asking. I will research the prices of autolock(just curious our doors are not heavy so how many pound cylenoid should I look at), and I will call my local stereo pad and ask them about trunk poppers.

Can I use just about any 16g steel to shave with? Or should I get a particular kind of steel? I am using a wirefeed welder and can't use aluminum. Wish I could afford a tig welder.

Again thanks for all your input. Does anyone have any pics of the install of the cylenoids or poppers?

Thanks
If you are using a mig welder, take your time so you don't warp anything.Do only small welds at a time and let the metal cool off.The 35 lb solenoids should work.
 
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