Alpine CDA 7995 Installation

[Psycron]

Ok, this is kind of confusing. I plan on hooking up my 7995 to the stock amp since this unit does not have an internal one. I need some input on the best way to do this - there are 3 sets of RCA composite jacks, one set for front, rear and subs. will I need a line converter for both of the front/rear sets to connect it to the stock amp? I'm going to stop by a local car audio place to get the wire harness for the power/illumination/dimmer/etc wires that go into the stock harness.

I can already see I'll need to need to convert the RCA jacks to wire so the HU can hook up to the amp. Can I use a line converter to connect the RCA jacks to the factory harness? Or will I have to run RCA cable to the amp itself and use the converter there? It would be much easier to run it straight into the wiring harness but I want to do this right...

For those thinking of getting an mp3/cd player, this unit is awesome! It looks bling-bling but it's all for function. There's controls for everything you could possibly need.

alpine > all mp3 cd players

any experts want to step up to the plate and take a swing?

-Alan

 

[97GS-TSpyder]

if you convert Wires to RCA its gonna sound like crap...you can use a line converter but honestly yout stock amp realistically is like 5watts x 6 speakers
Same wit head units....my pioneer is rated at 50x4 but realistically only puts out like 8 per speaker.....you honestly dont need one unless your sound is just crappy and go get a little 4 ghannel and hook it up or pay ssomeone....i never touch my audio but i do my other work

 

[Psycron]

Wtf? Where's the stock amp? I have a Chilton's manual, which doesn't give any information as to the location of the stock amp, go figure

I've searched DSMTuners and DSMTalk but neither gave me what I was looking for. Okay, it's supposed to be under the passenger's seat or in the trunk, but where? I can't seem to find anyone with a picture where it might be. I slid the passenger seat forward but there's nothing to indicate the amp is underneath; it's perfectly flat. I will probably end up having to lift up the carpet if it's under there.

I looked in the trunk, but I don't know where it would be. Argh, frustrating. Not only that but when I do find it I'll have to get RCA cables and run them to it and get a line converter (just for now until I get another amp). I'm AWD so maybe it's in the trunk? If anyone knows where I can find a picture it would be really useful.

*edit* I've been told by a friend our 1g's don't have a stock amp and that the stock stereo powers the speakers. Is this correct? I don't remember if my '90 FWD laser had one or not...

Thanks in advance...

-Alan

 

[[SOT]Simeon]

i dont think our 1gs have stock amps. ive got the alpine 7894 but it has speaker level out-puts as well as 3 pairs of preamps. i have a friend with the same head unit as yourself. his system is amped at every channel. i think he is using one of rockfords amps for the front and rears, and i think an orion for the subs. maybe its the other way around. its been three years since we put the system in. do a search for discount car stereo or wholesale car audio on google. i like rockford (alpine amps are good too). what speakers are you using?

 

[Psycron]

I'm using the stock speakers for now, my friend has a 400w amp he can give me but the stock speakers won't take that power for a second. I'm going to need a small amp but big enough to handle my infinitys when I get them later on. If I could get a 100w amp even that would be good.

I knew this unit didn't have an amp; I thought I could hook it up to the factory amp but 1Gs are pretty poor in the speaker dept...that's why there's no need for an amp. It's easier to use an amp internally on the stock stereo since there's hardly (15w) any juice going to them. I bet 65w total for all 6 speakers.

Basically I need to hack something up (the sound quality) to get a working solution, with lack of an amp it just comes down to "what amp should I buy? how much power?" I really like that US Acoustics 260W 4-Channel amp. The price is right. Would it have any ill effects on my stock speakers (like blowing them)? I don't know much about amps and if you can adjust the amp to be underpowered, say 15w/channel? haha.

 

[[SOT]Simeon]

sorry about the length i tend to go on about this subject.

simeons book of dsm audio installs, chapter 1

if you want it get it. it is a good price i dont know much about the brand but i looked at your link and they look sufficient.
most amps have gain controls. i think that the gain is a measure of signal amplification, it is not volume, though it does directly affect volume.
so you can install the amp and not blow the stock speakers. just watch your volume levels at the head and dont crank the gain way up until you have speakers that can handle it(i think the infinity references will easily handle 100 watts a piece at 4 ohms).
what infinitys? i got the reference 6.5 2ways up front in the doors and the reference 6x9 3ways in the back. as a warning the 6.5s hit the stock grill on the door on certain notes and volume levels but they fit in the opening well, in back the 6x9s wont fit without modding. the magnets are to deep to fit in the mounting braket. i ended up making a spacer that was 3/4 inch thick and brought it out to fit in its hole, now the trim panel doesnt fit so i cut out the old grills and used the infinity grills. my panels were already torn up by the sun so i wasnt careful when cutting them. its decent looking but not show quality. i need to do something up front im pretty sure the carpet trim on the door panel comes off easily so i may do some glass work for those, heck while im doing glass i may even replicate the back panels with room for the 6x9s.
beware of the references, i dont know about the kappas or the perfects check the dimensions, i think crutchfield is a good place to find mounting depths in the car and for the speakers, they have a worthy selection but high prices.
i also removed the old dash mount speakers i recomend doing the same even with the amp because they are connected in a parallel circuit(i think thats right) either way the circuit that they are in decreases the ohms the way they are hooked up, the amp(us acoustics usx4065) can handle less ohms but you will have to connect it differently which may have negitive effects on the system as well as the amp(over draw, and heating, may blow wire insulation)this is doubtful but always a possibility. most amps are rated at 4ohms, the big numbers(watts) are achieved by lowering the ohms(resistance), thats why you see alot of big speakers rated at 1 or 2 ohms, which alows or draws more amperes(measure of electrons passing a single point in the circuit per second) through the circuit hence more watts. so abandon the old dash speakers take them out of the car and save some weight(not much). dont worry about the old connector just leave them and make sure they dont ground to anything in the dash.
my system sounds good with the head pushing the speakers with out an amp so i can imagine with one(amp) and a better head.my only prob now is that the body panels rattle and i dont even have a sub. i guess ill buy one and crank it up so i cant hear the rattle.
the reference input tabs dont fit the stock speaker jacks so look at the speakers and buy the appropriate crimp ends for the wires.
or you can let your install shop worry about all of this, circuit city may tell you that the rear speakers are 6.5s they are not. they are 6x9s. i have seen installs with 6.5s in the rear using the stock mounts. may be they say this because 6x9s wont fit with the shallow area behind?

 

[Psycron]

The fit is going to be a different story - I've heard one of the solutions is to dent the wheel well in a little to make them fit. Not exactly a reversable mod, but the space is so small...

My Alpine CDA-7995 MP3/CD player $376 total shipped

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I found a good deal at NYC Electronics :

Infinity Kappa 63.5i 6 1/2" 3-Way Speakers $115/pair ($200 on sound domain)

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Infinity Kappa 693.5i 6x9" 3-way Speakers $139/pair ($249 sound domain)

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US Acoustics USX4085 340W 4-Channel Amp $174 (sound domain)

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This is going to be my core system, there will be other extras but that's pretty much it right there. Opinions are welcome. I also need to know if I should use 2-ways in the front or should I put them in back and have 3-ways in the front?

Kick Panel on Sound Domain - $149


They say it enhances the sound stage; if this is true then I 6 1/2" component system would be a better decision over either a 2 or 3-way door speaker. Any thoughts on this? As you can see I'm going to make sure I have all the right components before I buy them. I'm also going to get them cheap

*edit* anyone know about how much depth I have to work with for the 6x9s? Would smaller speakers rated the same (RMS, same model line) not be as loud? I'm wondering just how much work this will take for those kappa 6x9s will take to fit.

 

[[SOT]Simeon]

chapter 2

if thats the system youre going with and no subs then get the components for the front. they will provide better sound quality because they use crossovers instead of cutoff filters. in back i personally considered denting but i didnt want to go that route id rather not damage anything that doesnt need to be and my panels were faded and the sun ate them so i cut them instead. youre going to be dealing with somewhere around 2.5 to 3 inches(im not sure though its a guess i never measured when i had mine open) i had to space mine out 3/4 of an inch.
every thing looks good to me you may want a capacitor at some point to save your battery and alternator and to reduce headlight dimming.
to answer your question on sound difference between sizes, its all about frequency. a 12in and a 4in with the same rms, linear excursion, peak watt, resistence and so on, will produce different volume levels at different freqs. the differences between my 6x9s and 6.5s are noticeable. i say go with the biggest you can get. more surface area means more air can be moved/or pressurized(sound is just the changing pressure of air in rapid succesion) the higher the pressure the louder it is.an enclosure also aids in the process. my car had plastic cups behind the front door speakers, and in back the mounting braket seals to the surrounding surface. the cups up front keep them dry and also work like a sub enclosure(not as efficient though) same in back except the back enclosures are open to the voids in the body. all that refers to bass though. trebel works similarly but the drivers are differnt then normal speakers. i can say that you wil have plenty of trebel either way you go.
oh and about imaging your head unit should have a correction deal for that. it allows you to delay/advance the signal to the individual channels to accomodate for the distance to your ears.

 

[Cilydaniel]

i dont normally reply to these post but i must, just this one time. I have an Alpine head unit and i dont use the crappie infinity Amp, get rid of it, it will only degrade your Alpine reciever. i am running Kickers 65.2 components in the front with kicker 6x9's in the rear. This setup alone sounds great. an amp will only help it more, but not the crappy stock amp.
just my two cents.

Donny