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Gas door relocation to door jamb... design help.

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SpYYder

15+ Year Contributor
365
1
Jul 7, 2004
Utica, New York
The spyder is back in the shop again, and the gas filler is getting shaved. I'm looking for a new home for it, and i have been thinking about the passenger door jamb.

I've seen this done on a CRX before (only it was on the drivers' side) and it looked nice. They used a small aluminum gas door, i'm assuming from a motorcycle.

Obviously the neck will have to be removed and custom routed, i would like to have it come out just below the door latch. Does anybody see any problems with this. What is inside that section of the quarter panel that might cause conflicts? I thought about the convertible top motors or mechanisms, but i am not sure where they are located in the body.

and if this is not possible, i am going to need another location. i have considered behind the lisence plate, although this would require routing the pipe through the spare tire well, which housed my battery, behind the taillight is not an option as seen in the gallery since i have a supra tail conversion and the lights already have enough trouble fitting and creating brackets and what not.

i want the form of the body being smoothed, and a functional filler without using a fuel cell, please dont say get a 3G gas door. The gas filler is the only thing left on the body and it must go in my quest for a completely shaved car.. :D

Get back to me on this. I have a couple weeks to decide what happens with this car.
 
Behind the lisence plate is a nice spot. The problem with that being the piping has to be totally redone. I was thinking, in the door jamb, you wouldn't have to re-do the entry point of the fuel into the tank.
It would be a short distance of custom piping, as opposed to the legnth of the trunk.

I dont think the door jamb would cause the interior to stink. It's still outside the vehicle, outside of the door seals.
It would never overflow, as i only put in $20 at a time at the most. Also, any runoff would just run down the door jamb and over the sideskirt onto the ground.. the door seal area is a raised lip with rubber over it. So i think if i just kept a rag under the passenger seat, to clean the paint incase gas gets on it, i should be fine.

my concern was interference from the convertible top mechanism. we have a nice wide flat area on our door jamb which would make it perfect for mounting a small aluminum door like those on motorcycles.

I suppose i'll go ahead and order a nice aluminum fuel door from ebay. Ill have to go take measurements of the width of the door jamb.
 
Gallery will be up after the second stage of the paint, and the final pearl coat is done. I dont really want to show the car yet since its in pieces... :D
 
Shit. another problem... the story of my life with this car.. the gas cap i wanted on ebay, the seller says it won't work. it doesnt connect to a nozzle... any suggestions...?
 
even cleaner would be to get the kit that allos you to put it behind your right taillight.
 
i would like to do that, but the problem with that is i have a supra tail lamp conversion. Its a difficult enough time getting them to sit correctly and seal right, and fabricating the brackets to hold them in place. Putting a gas filler behind it would be even more of a headache than its already been.
I thought door jamb might be nice because its custom, and i like the way it looks, its different and clean. leaves the body smooth.
 
door jam would be fine...get one of those corvette splatter guards that goes underneath the gascap and unfolds to redirect any over fill as an added precaution....if you have never had experience with a pump that has no automatic shutoff you would know that when it starts to spray it goes everywhere
 
at this point, im trying to find a filler cap that's flush mount, clean looking, will mount up to a new filler neck, and small enough to put in the door jamb. any ideas???

the splash guard is a good idea. do you have any pictures? ive never seen this before.
 
how about something from a chopper

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hmm, very nice... i like the top one alot. something that doesn't require a key to open would be nice. but, either way, it has to be polished, or brushed aluminum, or something of that sort. a link, or where to buy, would be good too. im going to check motorcycle mags later today.
 
very nice!! thank you... that's probably what im going with. $144 sucks but oh well.
 
I am sure that you would want the steel weld in style 2 1/4", but do you dont need it to be vented right?
 
Right, steel, and weld-in of course, so everything is solid and smoothed, and 2.25" so that it fits nice under the door latch.

My next question is, whats the vented or non-vented thing for?? I would assume my stock gas cap is not vented, so i wouldn't want a vented one now, would i? im ready to order this as soon as i decide which one to buy.
 
I dont believe that caps are vented anymore. Here's are a couple things I found on a google search.

Q - I have a '91 Grand Prix, and sometimes, when I pulled the car into the garage, I heard a sound like a whistle coming from the car. It seemed to come from the rear. Finally, my son discovered where it was coming from. When I loosened the gas cap, a swooshing of gas fumes came out and the sound went away. I talked to the dealer's mechanic, and he said there is some kind of a tank or sealed container under the car and, apparently, this prevents fumes from going into the carb. He said it normally lasts a lifetime, but mine is apparently bad. Have you ever heard of such a thing? And, if so, what should I do? I never recall seeing any container under the car.

A - Your mechanic is referring to the evaporate control system, an emissions device that traps gasoline vapors onto the surface of activated charcoal granules while your car sits. The canister is usually found under the hood, near the front fender, behind a headlight, but it can be tucked away just about anywhere. (In the olden days, gas caps were vented to the atmosphere and tons of polluting hydrocarbons escaped from automobiles every day.) When you start your car, the vapors get sucked into the engine and the charcoal takes a nap until you park your car again.

Any restriction in the EVAP system can cause excessive pressure to build up in your fuel tank. If your gas cap is whistling, you also may want to check or replace it before your car gets rejected on its next emissions test

EVAPORATIVE CONTROLS
Gasoline evaporates quite easily. In the past these evaporative emissions were vented into the atmosphere. 20% of all HC emissions from the automobile are from the gas tank. In 1970 legislation was passed, prohibiting venting of gas tank fumes into the atmosphere. An evaporative control system was developed to eliminate this source of pollution. The function of the fuel evaporative control system is to trap and store evaporative emissions from the gas tank and carburetor. A charcoal canister is used to trap the fuel vapors. The fuel vapors adhere to the charcoal, until the engine is started, and engine vacuum can be used to draw the vapors into the engine, so that they can be burned along with the fuel/air mixture. This system requires the use of a sealed gas tank filler cap. This cap is so important to the operation of the system, that a test of the cap is now being integrated into many state emission inspection programs. Pre-1970 cars released fuel vapors into the atmosphere through the use of a vented gas cap. Today with the use of sealed caps, redesigned gas tanks are used. The tank has to have the space for the vapors to collect so that they can then be vented to the charcoal canister. A purge valve is used to control the vapor flow into the engine. The purge valve is operated by engine vacuum. One common problem with this system is that the purge valve goes bad and engine vacuum draws fuel directly into the intake system. This enriches the fuel mixture and will foul the spark plugs. Most charcoal canisters have a filter that should be replaced periodically. This system should be checked when fuel mileage drops.
 
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