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a few tips for those who are molding their side skirts/rear bumper...

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greathuskie

20+ Year Contributor
2,666
4
Sep 10, 2002
Hollywood, Florida
im molding my side skirts now just thought i would throw a few tips out, maybe some other can chip in

1. supporting the body part is the hard part about actually molding it, use tons of supports/brackets/screws to hold the body part stiff no matter what kind of road you are or what bumps you hit. i am using glue, 8 screws, 3 brackets, and fiberglass on each side skirt, i think i should be good to go
2. before you paint the car, take it over the nastiest roads you can find over and over, this will reveal any pockets of air you have in the fiberglass which will crack right away, this is defenitely the most common problem for cracks, air pockets under or in the fiberglass. dont be gentle on the car either, i mean dont beat the living shit out of it but you need to make sure to get out all the air pockets in the fiberglass

anyone have anything else to add?
just thought i would add me and euro obviously have different styles of doing this, neither of which is wrong by any means but i think mine will be more suitable for a daily driven car or close to it, maybe not but thats just my opinion
 
Definitely use a ribbed aluminum roller or a short bristle roller when laying the fiberglass whether you use chop mat or cloth, doesn't matter, use a roller and that will not only compress the resin in the fiberglass nicely end evenly but will also force out or bust any airpockets or voids you have. Personally I always use a bristle roller whether it is for carbon fiber, kevlar or fiberglass. You can find these items at most online composite stores.

I know some folks actually drive around for about a month before doing the finishing stages of body work. Reason is not only wil it find flaws in the body work but you MUST REMEMBER that polyester resin shrinks as it cure, some brands more than others. Even though a fiberglass part or project is dry in a few hours to handle and work on it is still curing for much longer. I have had parts come out of a mold hard as a rock and twist 3 hours later.

Anyhow, rollers will compact and remove airpockets.
Leo
 
I did the brackets as well...five on each side...goes under the sideskrit and to the body of the car.
I am not molding the bumpers though and the sideskrits will not crack...trust me :) Huskie is right though..we do it different ways but I think both will hold up just fine.I did exactlyt he same on my GS and it held up perfectly..even through very hard driving;-)
There are always a few different ways to do stuff but one thing I do agrre on is that if youa re molding body parts...The bigger they are the more fasteners and brackets you ned..definitly!
 
a bracket, a 6 inch piece of metal bended in half, screwed to the rocker panel of the car and attached to the side skirt :)

i am only using 2 on each side, but im also screwing and gluing the side skirt...
 
few more tips, not like anyone cares:

-wear latex gloves, youll thank me later
-dont underestimate using your figures to form something that you are making, it works really good in tight bending places like where teh side skirts meet the fender or quarter panel
 
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