To create the extra length needed for the coil pack to be re-located I added some extra length to the wires. Figuring it would be easier to buy a new coil pack down the road if I ever had to go back or had a problem I opted to alter the wiring on the coil pack, not the wiring harness on the car. Make sure that you use the same or better gauge wire of equal or better strands of copper for the best electrical connection. Also make absolutely sure that you solder all your connections for a trouble free connection and tape it up very well. Lots of voltage runs though this and you want to make sure its not going to be a problem with heat or moisture. Make sure you don’t mix up the wires either. As dumb as that sounds it would be very easy to mix up the two blue wires, so only cut and lengthen one wire at a time just to be sure.
Time to find a new home for your coil pack. You will need to mount it somewhere where it’s away from heat, moisture and not too close to anything that could move and damage it. Many people opt to mount it to the firewall directly behind the intake manifold however I decided to be different and find a new location for it. I didn’t want to have to buy new plug wires as my Mangacore wires have been good and are fairly new so I didn’t feel the need to replace them.
I cut the bottom of the coil pack so it was just a square holding the coils in place and the bracket was flat so it could be screwed down flat. I moved iy between the strut tower housing and the brake master cylinder. Two screws were used to hold it down on the strut tower housing and a simple bracket underneath the opposite side held it down nicely. I particularly like this spot because your regular plug wires reach, it’s out of the way, and keeps any additional wiring from running over top of the manifold. There is also nothing really important in that spot so you’re not blocking anything important off. You should be able to plug your wiring harness back in and hook up your spark plug wires.
Now its time to install your new battery. The Magnus manifold moves your throttle body around a bit so you will need to get a smaller battery for the extra room. It gave me a precious few extra inches I needed under the hood to comfortably make my intercooler pipe fit. It will need to be modified, however not by much with the extra room you will gain with the smaller battery. I also have a MSD DIS-2 and have always found the end of the battery a great place to slide it in. It’s out of the way and the dip switches are still easily accessible for a quick change.
It’s now time to modify your upper intercooler pipe. The new manifold is much lower so you will need to swivel the flange on the end of your pipe about 30deg. I used my Dremel to cut the existing welds to separate the flange and pipe so I could make the necessary adjustments. The other end of the pipe needed to have about 2” trimmed off it because the manifold is now 2” closer to that side of the car. After making my cuts I put the flange on the throttle body, held up the pipe to make sure it would clear everything and both ends would reach with out binding or any other problems. I put a small tack weld on the flange side to make it hold in place with my crappy home welder. If you don’t have a small welder (you should buy one) marking the pipes with a marker and having a local welding shop weld it up will work too. You have some forgiveness with the silicone on the other end so it’s somewhat critical to get it right. If it moves a tiny bit your pipe should still line up. If you do have problems a “hump” hose will give you the extra movement needed for everything to fit together. After making sure it lined up good I pulled the pipe out and had it welded all the way around.
Congratulations you’re done! That’s a successful install. Stand back and admire your work.
Feel free to PM me if you a question or if you feel I have forgotten a step.