Remove the final bolts holding the intake manifold on and it should come off fairly easily. There is a bracket bracing the bottom of the manifold to the block, factory overkill. You will need to remove this as well to get the manifold off.
Here you can see the difference between the stock manifold and the Magnus unit. Short runners and large plenum = big HP gains.
Generally as a rule of thumb I always replace all the gaskets. Install a new intake manifold gasket before putting on the new intake manifold.
You will need to install your vacuum fittings on the bottom of the manifold. It takes 3 1/8th NTP fittings and one ¼ NTP fitting. The 3 fitting will be for your FPR, BOV and Boost Gauge. The large fitting is for your brake booster. I used a 90deg elbow for the ¼ fitting as well so the brake booster like was not looped around under the manifold, it just made for a cleaner install.
Carefully install your new manifold as to not scratch it. You don’t want to go ruining your new manifold just because you’re in a rush to install it, you’ll regret that later on. Put on a few bolts to make sure it doesn’t move while you fit the rest of your parts back around it.
You will want to move your FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve) and TPS from your 2G throttle body over to the 1G. Moving the FAIV is not mandatory however I found the lines fit better on it, and it was cleaner. The TPS must be moved over because it’s a 4 prong vs. the 3 prong from a 1G. Follow the manuals re-calibration procedure for your TPS on the new throttle body. It’s easy and you can find the procedure broken down on many websites so I won’t cover it here.
Install your new 1G throttle body and 1G gasket on your manifold. You will need to move your cruise control box up a hair or two so that it clears the throttle body. You need only screw the two studs in finger tight as they will get tightened in when you finish everything. Here you can see how tight the throttle body is to the throttle cable box. You will want to hook your coolant lines back up to the FIAV. If you decide not to hook up the FIAV that’s up to you. I have read reports of some people saying its ok, others reported idle surge and other problems. I figured what the hell, lets hook it up so I get better cold starts. I don’t winter drive my car, however October and early November it starts to get cold and the car wouldn’t want to start without those items attached. Do a search here on DSMTuners on FIAV and read some opinions from different people around the country. You will also want to plug up the 4 vacuum ports on the top of the throttle body as you won’t be using them. At the time I didn’t have any of those nice caps so I just looped vacuum line from one to the other. It worked for the time being until I could get my hands on something better.
Next you will have to start finding homes for a few different items. The igniter is the first one I did since it looked to be the easiest. The bracket holding it down to the stock intake manifold was large enough for it to get bolted down under an intake manifold bolt. Your igniter needs a descent ground so you don’t want to leave it hanging under the manifold. This was easy and keeps it hidden with no wiring modification.
At this point it’s a good idea to tighten up the bolts for the intake manifold as you will not need to move it around anymore and other items will get installed in the way so, tighten it all down now. This is also a good time to hook up your vacuum lines. As stated a few steps ago you will only be using a few vacuum lines under the hood now.
You have three 1/8th NTP fittings for your boost gauge, FPR and BOV. All the vacuum fitting for your turbo and boost controller can run from the BOV feed like normal. The one larger fitting with the ¼ NTP fitting is for your brake booster. I had to trim the brake booster line to make it a little more manageable. Make sure you don’t cut the check (one way) valve which is inside the line. It keeps boost from pressurizing the brake booster and making your brakes rock hard. Make sure you use clamps or zip ties on your fitting to make sure they seal and will not pop off with 20+ psi of pressure in the manifold.
You probably now have a whole lot of extra vacuum lines sitting around doing nothing now right? Great pull them all out. You can remove all the vac lines and the pipes, and charcoal canister and all that related emissions garbage. Your car will pass emissions without that crap anyways (California people need not apply here as you will fail visual). What you will need to do is keep the solenoids connected and hidden under the manifold somewhere. I opted to remove them from their original location on the firewall so they didn’t look “unplugged” and zip tied them under the manifold so they were still there just hidden. If you don’t keep the solenoids connected you run the risk of a check engine light.
You can decide weather to keep or remove the solenoid for your FPR now. If you keep decide to keep it, it will help your car warm up as it holds your fuel pressure higher during warm up until it allows more vacuum though to drop the pressure down. It doesn’t hurt anything so I decided to keep it for drivability and quicker warms ups.
Time to install your fuel rail and injectors. Take your injectors out of your safe spot, lube up the o-rings and re-install them into the rail and screw the rail back down.. Don’t forget your plastic spacers for the fuel rail and the throttle cable. You can also hook the throttle cable back up to your throttle body now.
Now is also the time to grab your wiring harness and move it over and start plugging things in. Your igniter will plug right in no problem as will your injectors and tps, etc etc... You can easily hide your wiring harness under your fuel rail there is plenty of room. A few zip ties help keep it in place and from moving around with the vibration of the engine. The only thing that you won’t be able to connect will be your coil pack as it will end up sitting too far away now to reach the wiring harness. You can also hook your fuel feed back up to your fuel rail.
I didn’t want to use a small filter for my PCV and valve cover vent so I ran some low pressure fuel line and T’d the lines together and ran it behind the motor so it looks like it’s going somewhere. It only drips a few drops of oil when you’re under boost so there is no worry of making a mess under the car or on your driveway. If your motor is running properly, very little should ever come out of it so there is no need for a filter or anything like that.
