Need help again...

[greenmeanie99]

Okay so after getting rid of megasquirt I changed my fuel system.

I went back to factory ECU with 450cc's and an SFMU. I finally got the SFMU and all the adapters/lines etc. I wired my S-AFC back up and purchased a Velotica FCD as well. I wired the SAFC so that it goes before the FCD before going to the ECU so the S-AFC.

We got it to fire up fine and got the idle pretty good the car would go into boost pretty easily and it doesn't feel like I can make much power when I accelerate. I couldn't find any large boostleaks so I can't figure out why it doesn't seem like its making boost. I can hear a whooshing noise under WOT so I think there is a boost/vacuum leak that is making the noise. Also I didn't adjust the FCD so I don't know if it has something to do with how I wired the FCD which is why it isn't making power.

Any help is appreciated. If any other information is needed that would help diagnose please let me know.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I don't think I've ever had any customers use both an S-AFC and FCD in conjunction, however, based on their theories of operation, they shouldn't conflict.

I recommend trying to find any boost/vacuum leaks, then testing the maximum output voltage on the FCD per the included instructions.

You might even consider removing the S-AFC altogether. I wouldn't think you'd need it for just 450s; the S-FMU alone should do just fine.

Anyway, see where that takes you, then post back here.

 

[selmerguy]

I don't think I've ever had any customers use both an S-AFC and FCD in conjunction, however, based on their theories of operation, they shouldn't conflict.

I recommend trying to find any boost/vacuum leaks, then testing the maximum output voltage on the FCD per the included instructions.

You might even consider removing the S-AFC altogether. I wouldn't think you'd need it for just 450s; the S-FMU alone should do just fine.

Anyway, see where that takes you, then post back here.

I think you should keep the SAFC. You need to do a boost leak test and fix any you find. The sfmu can control the 450's with no problem but if you have a way to log then the SAFC can make some fine adjustments to squeeze out some extra ponys. What PSI are you running?

 

[greenmeanie99]

I definately need the SAFC the idle is horrible without the idle cut back 50%. Ill try to find the boost leaks later today.

BTW Im at 8 psi.

 

[BigRand]

Have you checked your boost gauge under boost? Is it fluttering or acting weird when it goes into boost above zero psi? If your running an external wastegate you might need to check it and see if the diaphram is leaking or that all the bolts are tight on it.

 

[greenmeanie99]

Have you checked your boost gauge under boost? Is it fluttering or acting weird when it goes into boost above zero psi? If your running an external wastegate you might need to check it and see if the diaphram is leaking or that all the bolts are tight on it.

Yea it is fluttering sounds like a compressor surge when it goes into boost and I have an internal waste gate.

 

[BigRand]

well what does the guauge look like? Is the gauge moving really fast, or does it look normal when it rises?

 

[greenmeanie99]

I'll check later and let you guys know.

 

[greenmeanie99]

I think I figured a few things out.

For MS I had a T in my boost gauge line for the MAP sensor and didn't cap it. Also I think my HKS valve is either broken or stuck closed which would explaine why the car isn't making power. Im going to go back to my 1g valve and fix my vacuum line tonight.

Also my PS belt fell of for the second time now and its getting annoying. I checked and the OEM top passanger motormount is torn pretty bad, I noticed when I turned the car on the motor moves a lot. Im thinking that when I accelerate the motor moves and the belt falls of track. AFAIK the belts don't move any faster at a higher RPM thus why the belt never fell off at idle.

 

[XMasta19]

Fix yo chit fool

 

[greenmeanie99]

Okay some stuff to add. I still havent boost leak tested the car but there arent any vacuum leaks for sure my idle vacuum is perfect and it revs to 0 with no load at idle. I did* however notice that my megasquirt water temp sensor (non OEM) was still installed and I must have attached the factory harness to its wires. So my in car gauge was reading perfect but the diagnostic tool reads 250 degrees.

To iterate more a cold start was a PITA to get it running because it needed more fuel and once I got it to run I took some fuel out and it idled perfect.

Now while reving at Idle I noticed the turbo compressor surging and the BOV felt like it wasn't opening when i reved the throttle cable. So Im going to try to run a standalone vacuum line to the BOV because currently its T'd into my waste gate actuator.

For the next time I'm up at my car I will boost leak test and tune the map clamp. Although I did get a map barro code when I turned the car on ????

So anyone have any clue why its compressor surging and if it has any relevance to the coolant temp sensor?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

For the next time I'm up at my car I will boost leak test and tune the map clamp. Although I did get a map barro code when I turned the car on ????

So anyone have any clue why its compressor surging and if it has any relevance to the coolant temp sensor?

It just sounds like the BOV isn't opening. "Tee-ing" the BOV line is fine, but you really should have a dedicated line (preferably from the compressor housing or IC piping) for the wastegate. Also, the BOV opens because of a pressure differential between the intake manifold (negative pressure) and the IC pipe (positive pressure). If you're just revving, and the engine isn't under load, I'd be surprised if you produced enough positive pressure in the IC pipe to open the BOV anyway. Sometimes I can get mine to open, but only if I really push the RPMs past 6K or so...

As for the MAP code, the FCD is either tuned way too low, or is installed improperly. Do you know the specific code? Some people have reported unavoidable CELs with FCDs, but the way these FCDs work, that really shouldn't happen.

I don't know what to tell you about the coolant sensor other than replace your MS sensor with an OEM one. Your ECU is getting inaccurate data about the coolant temperature, and thus is making poor calculations elsewhere.

 

[greenmeanie99]

Ill go over the FCD again and tune it on Saturday.

I think the ms sensor is really f*cking a lot of things up because my buddy has a ls1 swapped 3rd gen RX7 and his temp sensor was making his ECU think his car was over heating when it wasn't thus the car ran poor.

Updates to come and the regular maintainance raising the car and finding the bent or damaged pulley is next.

 

[greenmeanie99]

Ugh...problems again its driving me crazy.

I took kare of the vacuum leaks and the water temp sensor and the car is still running like shit. Before going into boost it drives fine but as soon as the car goes into Postive Manifold pressure it bucks and runs like shit. Now I have my Map Clamp fully tuned and my SAFC wired as well. I got an EGR code after driving for a little I was like WTF???


Now The SFMU I got was used and already had a disk in it, so maybe I need to switch the disc but I don't know. Any help appreciated again.

 

[XMasta19]

Do you have a wideband? What "map clamp" are you using

 

[greenmeanie99]

Yea I have a wideband and im using the Velotica FCD.

I am so confused about this damn car

 

[greenmeanie99]

To add...the car actually seems like it misses when it goes in to boost almost like it is running too rich. Sorry to confuse everyone, but Im thinking there is probably too big of a disc/ring in the SFMU because I purchased it used. So I am going to add fuel to the high throttle on the SAFC and see if it gets worse if it gets better im way to lean and so forth.

Ill keep you guys updated.

 

[4UH8ERS]

To add...the car actually seems like it misses when it goes in to boost almost like it is running too rich. Sorry to confuse everyone, but Im thinking there is probably too big of a disc/ring in the SFMU because I purchased it used. So I am going to add fuel to the high throttle on the SAFC and see if it gets worse if it gets better im way to lean and so forth.

Ill keep you guys updated.

just take the disk out of the sfmu and measure it. i would post a link of the disks and the size of each but im in a hurry to go to lunch and dont have time to search for them.

btw: do yourself a favor. simply disconnect the safc and tune the 450's by the sfmu alone, until its almost running perfect. then adjust your fcd while the safc is disconnected. after you get the car running well, without the safc, then reconnect it and use it for FINE TUNING only. Use this concept and u will be much more happy down the road and will have a much friendlier idle.

 

[greenmeanie99]

Im going to play with the SAFC a little before I do this if that doesn't help I will pull apart the SFMU and measure the disc I have and post up whats included I know the black spring is in now because I have the silver spring in the box.

 

[greenmeanie99]

More Updates:

Got the car to boost finally. There was way too much fuel taken out of the high throttle on the SAFC. The car hit 14psi with out a boost controller on an 10lb spring WTF.

Aside from that I keep getting EGR codes so I don't understand what is happening.

 

[greenmeanie99]

Okay got the car running at 8psi with a good base tune until my wideband comes. With the exception of my rad fan not working and the car bucking for some reason it was driven home finally thank god.