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Oil Leaking and another potential problem

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totaleclipse_05

15+ Year Contributor
1,037
36
Apr 22, 2005
Hutchinson, Minnesota
I am currently leaking oil around my valve cover area so I am thinking maybe my valve cover is warped or my head a bit. I have replaced the gasket for the valve cover twice now and it still leaks around the same area. I took some pics around where I think it is leaking. Is it possible to warp a valve cover or not? I remember my car was running really hot when I had removed my thermostat housing a while back and it was leaking. It was about 3/4 on the gauge and rose a little bit, but never got into the red. That was a couple months back already though. This problem started shortly after putting on my turbo (about 2 weeks after it was running hot). I had done a compression test around that time also and it had read around 200 on average for all 4. I am probably going to pull the head in the next couple of weeks and get it re-surfaced and put on a spare valve cover I have in case this one is warped. What does everyone think?

Also I have noticed a week or so after I had gone turbo if I start my car and let it idle to warm up, after 2-3 minutes white smoke comes out of my exhaust. Usually that leads to thinking coolant, but I have checked my coolant levels and it seems to be ok. Also it will not smoke if I get on it really quick and then come back and let it idle. Just inital start up it smokes only. I was told it could be my valve stem seals, but wouldn't the smoke be blue in color if that was the case? After I get on it and let it idle, it will idle all day without any colored exhaust fumes coming out.
 

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totaleclipse_05 said:
I am currently leaking oil around my valve cover area so I am thinking maybe my valve cover is warped or my head a bit. I have replaced the gasket for the valve cover twice now and it still leaks around the same area. I took some pics around where I think it is leaking. Is it possible to warp a valve cover or not? I remember my car was running really hot when I had removed my thermostat housing a while back and it was leaking. It was about 3/4 on the gauge and rose a little bit, but never got into the red. That was a couple months back already though. This problem started shortly after putting on my turbo (about 2 weeks after it was running hot). I had done a compression test around that time also and it had read around 200 on average for all 4. I am probably going to pull the head in the next couple of weeks and get it re-surfaced and put on a spare valve cover I have in case this one is warped. What does everyone think?

Also I have noticed a week or so after I had gone turbo if I start my car and let it idle to warm up, after 2-3 minutes white smoke comes out of my exhaust. Usually that leads to thinking coolant, but I have checked my coolant levels and it seems to be ok. Also it will not smoke if I get on it really quick and then come back and let it idle. Just inital start up it smokes only. I was told it could be my valve stem seals, but wouldn't the smoke be blue in color if that was the case? After I get on it and let it idle, it will idle all day without any colored exhaust fumes coming out.


I think you are worrying too much. My valve cover looks the same as yours. It's leaking a bit. But believe me, a leaky valve cover is the least of my concern.

I actually went ALL the way to the H, and drove it like that from downtown, to work. I don't think theres any way to tell of warpage unless you actually pull the head off and check it. Or, just get it decked and shaved.

My car smokes like that also. If it's from initial start-up, you have to remember, moisture builds up throughout nighttime or even while parked, so once all these parts move around and create heat, this moisture will become steam. That being the white smoke you may see. This isn't exactly what may be with your car, but mine does the EXACT same thing. After she warms up, no smoke, if at all, a faint amount.

If it makes you feel any better this happened around the same time last year when my car was NON-TURBO.... It''s still occuring even AFTER the conversion...

EDIT- If it helps, do a leak down test as well. I'm sure you know what white smoke can result from also.... (Ring lands)
 
Yeah, I don't have a problem driving it at all, runs great. I just don't like popping my hood and having oil all over it LOL. When it initially starts up, it's not a constant white smoke. It will have some big puffs for a while, stop having white smoke, then come back like 10 sec later. Then when I rev it, it puffs out more smoke. If I just drive it without getting on it, it will continue to puff smoke out. After I floor it though, it will go away. Kind of weird IMO.
 
totaleclipse_05 said:
Yeah, I don't have a problem driving it at all, runs great. I just don't like popping my hood and having oil all over it LOL. When it initially starts up, it's not a constant white smoke. It will have some big puffs for a while, stop having white smoke, then come back like 10 sec later. Then when I rev it, it puffs out more smoke. If I just drive it without getting on it, it will continue to puff smoke out. After I floor it though, it will go away. Kind of weird IMO.


Well, that oil all over the bay is probably from your VC, but that can be fixed... Or atleast I HOPE it's from your VC..

If it only occurs when you are NOT getting on it, then I'd consider you as running pig rich. That's also a symptom of white smoke. Basically, when you get on it, it would lean out the mixture enough so that it WON'T smoke, and that's the way it should be across the RPM range.(Thus wideband o2's, montitoring, tuning, etc) Adjusting feul/curve is beneficial for efficincy. BUT, it may not be... White smoke can be misleading.

What does it smell like? Feul, oil, or exhaust gas?
 
Just smells like it usually does. Just exhaust.

I replaced my O2 sensor after my OEM one had fallen out of my downpipe and my old one would always cycle between lean and rich at idle, but this new one (Bosch) just sits right around the 1-2 o'clock position (stoich and rich, more rich though). While cruising it usually cycles and functions like it should any other time, but at idle it will just sit in a constant position. Could that be a potential cause of the white smoke?

EDIT:

OK, I just went and moved the car into the driveway and when I got out, I did notice it smelled kinda rich, like fuel. So maybe it is running really rich and the white smoke is from that.
 
Burnt fuel doesn't usually make white smoke. I'd put my money on condensation evaporating. A rich condition wouldn't fix itself after warm up.

Also, don't you have an A/F gauge? I know it's not a wideband, but that should at least give you an idea of your AFR.
 
Yeah I have an A/F gauge. When I initially start it up, it goes all the way to rich then goes back and sits at around a 1-2 o'clock postion until I give it gas. While cruising it cycles just fine from rich to lean and at WOT it stays in rich. So basically it reads fine unless it idles which it just sits at one spot while my old O2 sensor would cycle at an idle.
 
Oh yeah, I remember you saying something about that now. I still think the fact that your AFR reading with this new sensor doesn't cycle is kind of strange...
 
Yeah I thought so as well. I brought in old sensor to Autozone to exchange it for another in case this one was messed up, but the new one does the same exact thing. I don't know if it's just what the Bosch ones do or if it doesn't read right.
 
OK, I have an update finally:

Well I am planning on moving across the country so I want to get as much of my problems fixed as I can before hand. Yesterday I received my new oil feed flange and I was leaking out of the one I have on now, so I opted to put this new one on. I bolted it up to my turbo and started to tighten down my oil feed when the fitting broke off the new flange! The fitting is now stuck in my oil line and we can not get it out. Tried drilling, chiseling, etc. but nothing has worked. I will probably have to find a new oil line locally as the seller said he would replace my flange with another. But this is a whole different problem.

On another note, since my car is down, I decided to pull off my valve cover and use my spare one I have to see if that fixes the leaking problem. It was painted blue so I went and bought some black spray paint and painted it semi-gloss black. I let it dry and bought another valve cover gasket set and threw it on. I made sure to use RTV sealer around the areas that need it and now it will have a nice set up period as I can not run my car without the oil line problem fixed. Hopefully that fixes the leaking.

I will probably rig up a catch-can as well using an autostore fuel filter thing. Anybody know how to make it work? I know it can be done, but I forget where it goes inline with and all that good stuff.

Also, painted my blue pipe black to match the rest of my IC piping. Pics will come probably tomorrow after I put everything back together. Then I will have to start looking for a oil line :(
 
For future reference, you may want to have some misc. parts laying around for when things like this happen.

I've got an extra feed line, I/C piping, TPS sensor, TB, VC, VC gasket, tees and brass fitting (oil assembly) and even some extra t-bolt clamps and 4 ply silicone hoses, vacuum lines, themo housing, lower and upper coolant pipes, the list goes on ...

I think I'm going to buy some extra CPS, MAP, TPS, IAC, and knock sensor for when I dirve up north to visit Paul . Also for the dyno pulls. I don't want ANY of those failing when under high boost...

Just some tips for ya. Buy little things here and there, sometimes you can find them for VERY cheap, pick them up, you may need them later...
 
if you get that problem back on the leaky valve cover you can always get some washers to tighten down the valve cover bolts alittle more. it helped for me and i havent leaked since good luck
 
Blitz- I actually have a pretty good supply of misc parts like piping, couplers, vacuum line (3 different sizes), fuel line, bulbs, heater hose, etc. I just didn't think I would need an oil line in the future since I have stainless ones with brass fittings.

viper- I actually had some washers with my spare valve cover so I made sure to put one in the spot that was the potential leak. I hope that could be it.
 
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