final steps for turbo

[napkinthief]

Ok guys, time is here, got a near new condition t3/t4, polished to a mirror finish, I do not see any problems with, it spins free its clean, no shaft play, and no noise while spinning

now i need the oil lines for it, and also cooling lines

first off, do I need stainless steel braided lines, or will autozone oil hose work for now? I am running low on money, and wouldn't mind switching later on.

I need a manifold. t3/t4 to 420a, somewhere around 100-150$ shipped.

and finally, which fitting do I need for the turbo, i checked on ebay, theres so much different kinds of packages for the lines at 80$ but the stuff seems to be much cheaper if I go to home depot.


so i far i know I need a T for the block, and the rest of the pieces to make that "assembly" for the oil feed line, which parts would I need for the turbo. My pan is already tapped with a 3/8" fitting

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Ok, ready? Here we go...

You need a 3/8" nipple that goes into the block itself. This connects to a 3/8" T. On the other side of the T you connect the stock oil pressure sender, and on the last side, you put a male-male reducer (4-AN if that's the size line you're using...).

From there, you'll either want to screw on your SS hose, or get a female barb to put a rubber hose on.

To the turbo, the SS hose connects using a male-male AN fitting which is dependent upon the specific turbo you have.

For the oil output, you'll need an outlet flange and gasket. These come in either a male or female variety. Whatever you get, you can also get the corresponding barb to put a large hose on it.

That output hose will need to go straight into the oil pan. You can either get a steel bung and weld it in (recommended), get a nipple and nuts, washers, and JB Weld on either side, or Earl's (think Summit) makes something specifically that doesn't require welding, and just uses two very snug nuts wedged against two nylon washers. I'll try to find the part numbers for you.

You can pretty much get all of these fittings at Home Depot, but the flange you'll most likely want to get on eBay ($15). If a fitting is "-AN," look for the word "flare" on the package. The threads won't match properly otherwise. Also, use Teflon joint compound on all connections, NOT Teflon tape! It'll degrade and contaminate your oil.

You can use rubber oil hoses, but I don't recommend it. Just don't stress your system much, and you should be fine until you upgrade. At that point you'll only need to take out the barb fittings and screw in the SS lines.

Don't worry about the water lines for now. If you're on a budget, you'll be able to hook them up later, just let the turbo cool for a while before shutting the car off (poor man's turbo timer... sitting in the car for 30 seconds).

I recommend looking for your manifold on eBay or the 2GNT classifieds. T3/T4 manis are always popping up. Personally, I think the best lower-budget mani is from Mike at the Street Source (that's where I got mine from), but he charges about $300.

Finally, make sure you have all the other supporting mods you'll need. How's your fuel system? Pump? FMU? You'll also need to think about how you're going to do your IC pipes and downpipe.

 

[napkinthief]

I have a 255 walbro with a 12:1 vortech managing that, so im good for fuel, if not rich when I hit boost

for my ic piping, for now, I am just going to pick up whatever pipes I need from autozone from thier exhaust section, like 3$ a piece and they seem to be fine minus the press bends. I will take up until I get FMIC and then short route some custom ic piping.

I have about 250$ left to make or break this build, I dont wanna mess it up now by getting something I dont really need, I got great deals on all my parts,

101$ t3/t4 almost new turbo shipped
50$ vortech 12:1 shipped
75$ walbro 255 shipped.
25$ boost gauge and oil pressure gauge, from autometer without the oil presssure sender
30$ 2 smics from a 1g, good condition
5$ "2g" bov, I dont know what kind it is, but it works fine, well see when its installed

I think I will spend about 45-55 on the piping. which puts me at 200 even for the oil lines and the manifold....

or I have to wait another month for my next paycheck. I hate this pay by month shit.


Plus I bought many hoses, clamps, Ts, some sandpaper and polish to shine up the ics, a dremel, a gas welding kit with mask, gloves, and 5lbs of arc sticks, for about 250$. Most of this stuff I didn't need. I think I broke the cheapest turbo setup for an nt

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Ok guys, time is here, got a near new condition t3/t4, polished to a mirror finish, I do not see any problems with, it spins free its clean, no shaft play, and no noise while spinning

How do the blades on the compressor wheel look? Perfectly clean or is there build-up?

first off, do I need stainless steel braided lines, or will autozone oil hose work for now? I am running low on money, and wouldn't mind switching later on.

You need stainless lines..I don't know what autozone carries..but I seriously doubt it will work, and if you use it...You'll be out alot more money when oil sprays all over you engine bay and ignites..

Talk to paul, 99GST_Racer he sells the -4an line you need. Tell him I sent ya.

I need a manifold. t3/t4 to 420a, somewhere around 100-150$ shipped.

Same flange/manifold used for T3..It will be hard to find a good one for under $200.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/420a...032543797QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Neon...ryZ33742QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I know the 2nd one doesn't look the best, but they're customer service was awesome.

and finally, which fitting do I need for the turbo, i checked on ebay, theres so much different kinds of packages for the lines at 80$ but the stuff seems to be much cheaper if I go to home depot.

Is the inlet threaded already? If so it will be a 1/8 size fitting, you'll need that to be 1/4 flare on the other end for the SS line.

so i far i know I need a T for the block, and the rest of the pieces to make that "assembly" for the oil feed line, which parts would I need for the turbo. My pan is already tapped with a 3/8" fitting

Just the one fitting.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Might I recommend this for your IC piping...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98542

It is by no means a permanent solution, but it'll get you boosting for now. I was considering doing my IC pipes like that until I decided to just wait. I PMd Wret about it, and he advised against using them for a very long period of time as it's prone to small leaks, but I think it would be better than the Autozone press-bends. You'd need a few of them, and that would add up quickly.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

You need stainless lines..I don't know what autozone carries..but I seriously doubt it will work

Just explaining why I said it was possible... I know for the factory turbo cars, the output line at least is rubber. I can't say I've examined the feed line too closely. Like I said though, I recommend the SS lines, you don't want to play around with that stuff.

Shell out the $30 for at least the feed line.

 

[napkinthief]

Hmm this is starting to make me think more...maybe I should hold out for a little longer, and just get a decent manifold and some good ic piping and ss lines. Would seem pointless having to do everything twice.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Seriously..WAIT to turbo your car...SERIOUSLY!!!

You're rushing this too much. Put that other sidemount up for sale, save up some more money, get the SS lines, order mandrel bent pipes from SummitRacing.com or JEGS.com. Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT.

I'm not trying to be an ass or anything like that at all..I just don't want to see you boost it, then lose it.

What do you have for wastegate set-up too? what about the downpipe, and flange...Right now you need the finishing touches..Everyone who goes through putting a kit together needs these..They suck..The wait for them sucks..but if you don't do it, you'll be sorry.

Seems to me like you need..

Manifold
oil lines
wastegate setup(if not internally gated already)
Downpipe flange
Downpipe
IC pipes
Couplers/clamps
return flange

For return line you can use rubber hose.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Would seem pointless having to do everything twice.

It would seem pointless to buy crappy parts. I'm sure we all went through hardships and waited a long time before putting together our custom turbo kits. If we hadn't, we probably would've bought a Hahn Kit or a GS-T. Wait a little bit longer and you'll be much happier with the outcome.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Hmm this is starting to make me think more...maybe I should hold out for a little longer, and just get a decent manifold and some good ic piping and ss lines. Would seem pointless having to do everything twice.

Please do, I'm glad you said that. Trust me, it's the best move you'll make.

Just explaining why I said it was possible... I know for the factory turbo cars, the output line at least is rubber. I can't say I've examined the feed line too closely. Like I said though, I recommend the SS lines, you don't want to play around with that stuff.

Shell out the $30 for at least the feed line.

After I made my 1st reply I saw yours and was like SOB I'm going to follow up on him again. hahaha

I know you were just explaining the option..I thought the factory turbo line is metal, with a flex section in the middle?..I never looked either really..

 

[napkinthief]

I already have a downpipe, just gotta weld another flange on for the t3/t4, its for a 14b right now. my friend is getting me a flange in a couple days, 10$.

I am thinking of letting go of my sound system to help me finish off the turbo, then just get a smaller better setup system later. I have 2 12" sony xplods with a 1400 watt amp, way too much overkill, never pass more than 70% on my headunit ### its just too loud when the car next to me starts shaking

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I already have a downpipe, just gotta weld another flange on for the t3/t4, its for a 14b right now. my friend is getting me a flange in a couple days, 10$.

I am thinking of letting go of my sound system to help me finish off the turbo, then just get a smaller better setup system later. I have 2 12" sony xplods with a 1400 watt amp, way too much overkill, never pass more than 70% on my headunit ### its just too loud when the car next to me starts shaking

Do it, it'll only weigh you down anyways haha..If you can handle letting it go, I'd recommend it.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

After I made my 1st reply I saw yours and was like SOB I'm going to follow up on him again. hahaha

I know you were just explaining the option..I thought the factory turbo line is metal, with a flex section in the middle?..I never looked either really..

I think you're right... I'll have to look into, either way: rubber feed lines = bad idea.

I am thinking of letting go of my sound system to help me finish off the turbo.

Obnoxiously large systems and speed don't mix anyway.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Do it, it'll only weigh you down anyways haha..If you can handle letting it go, I'd recommend it.

Alright, that's the third post where we responded similarly. It just shows you, real tuners all think alike in the end.

 

[napkinthief]

no joke, each 12" sub with its box weighs at least 40 lbs, I got my hands on some TOUGH highgrade HDF board 3/4 thick. plus the amp is mounted a board , thats 15 lbs more.

100 lb weight reduction , ill think about it, i still love it when a civic rolls up next to me and bumps his 8" killer sub, and i raise it 4 degrees and mine is already louder than his. then he takes me

 

[DSMcrazy3]

no joke, each 12" sub with its box weighs at least 40 lbs, I got my hands on some TOUGH highgrade HDF board 3/4 thick. plus the amp is mounted a board , thats 15 lbs more.

100 lb weight reduction , ill think about it, i still love it when a civic rolls up next to me and bumps his 8" killer sub, and i raise it 4 degrees and mine is already louder than his. then he takes me

Wanna know what sounds sweeter and will make you feel better..

When a civic rolls up and bumps his 8" killer sub and you give him a taste of your BOV in his ear.

Sell the system..boost the car.

 

[XMasta19]

wow, so much talking in this thread...now it's my turn

I think I broke the cheapest turbo setup for an nt

you're not done yet, and we'll just see how well this works

I already have a downpipe, just gotta weld another flange on for the t3/t4, its for a 14b right now.

have you already verified that it fits?

Obnoxiously large systems and speed don't mix anyway

sure they do, greatly in fact


Just go to the store and get some Gates hose, you don't NEED ss line. I still have my Gates feed line, and only just recently got an ss return line. Do yourself a favor and sell your xplod nonsense and uber cool custom setup. I've got full system all the way around, from dvd to components to subs...and I'm still fast Some of us on here actually speak from experience, so don't be afraid to take our advice buddy....we're all a family

Some other tidbits of knowledge...

1. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc great site for misc parts
2. please DO use teflon tape on all of your oil fittings...it's not good for FUEL components
3. listen to me






: X-Masta out :

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Just go to the store and get some Gates hose, you don't NEED ss line.

Which is what VelocitàPaola and I have been saying. We just strongly recommend it over rubber hose. Especially when it can be afforded. It's longer lasting and provides a cleaner look.

I'm still fast.

When you're car isn't on stands

3. listen to me

and Me and VelocitàPaola and SelmerGuy and BigRand and GSgoinfast and all the other members I didn't mention who successfully turbo'd they're 420a.

 

[Randomrage]

Wanna know what sounds sweeter and will make you feel better..

When a civic rolls up and bumps his 8" killer sub and you give him a taste of your BOV in his ear.

Quote. Of. The. Year!

Id put some kind of speakers back in there though, you need something to drown out that Walbro. Good lord its loud!

 

[napkinthief]

i just have a piece of dynomat over the walbro cover then the rear seat and its barely noticable with the windows up

non existant with windows down

 

[BigRand]

I don't know about ya'll, but I love the sound of my walbro when I start my car, sounds like a big ass super computer is turning on, letting you and your passenger know your car has something going on. Especially when I give rides to my friends who haven't felt boost before.

Then I crank the music and drop the windows down.

1 12" sub, and single box, Not to heavy, (40lbs with the amp at max), gets my car bumping enough.