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redeclipse7782

15+ Year Contributor
463
7
Oct 20, 2004
Worcester, Massachusetts
Almost done with this 2 month project. Shatered all 4 of my pistons running 10psi of boost on stock internals so it was time to do it right. JE Pistons and rings 8:8.1 ratio, Eagle H beam rods, Clevite main bearings, ACL rod bearings, Melling High Performance Oil Pump, Complete Gasket kit, brand new oem crank, OBX Crank Pulley, Powder coated fuel rail, throttle body, valve cover, and intake manifold, all above parts and powder coating by Concept Illusions in Pennsylvania, great work and an unbeatable price. Ceramic coated turbo manifold and turbo housing by Performance Coatings in Washington. Custom fabbed 2 1/2 inch downpipe by Right Choice Exhaust in Massachusetts, welds are so good you can barely see them. The car also has Crower stage 2 cams, Vortech SFMU, RX 440cc injectors, super 16g turbo, apexi n1 exhaust, apexi safc 2, missing link, Greddy large front mount intercooler,.Autometer boost, egt, and oil pressure gauges, also swapped the gray console and dash for black, and started working on the custum trunk. All installed by my mechanic and friend Tony. Should be running tommorow cant wait :cool:
 

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redeclipse7782 said:
Almost done with this 2 month project. Shatered all 4 of my pistons running 10psi of boost on stock internals so it was time to do it right. JE Pistons and rings 8:8.1 ratio, Eagle H beam rods, Clevite main bearings, ACL rod bearings, Melling High Performance Oil Pump, Complete Gasket kit, brand new oem crank, OBX Crank Pulley, Powder coated fuel rail, throttle body, valve cover, and intake manifold, all above parts and powder coating by Concept Illusions in Pennsylvania, great work and an unbeatable price. Ceramic coated turbo manifold and turbo housing by Performance Coatings in Washington. Custom fabbed 2 1/2 inch downpipe by Right Choice Exhaust in Massachusetts, welds are so good you can barely see them. The car also has Crower stage 2 cams, Vortech SFMU, RX 440cc injectors, super 16g turbo, apexi n1 exhaust, apexi safc 2, missing link, Greddy large front mount intercooler,.Autometer boost, egt, and oil pressure gauges, also swapped the gray console and dash for black, and started working on the custum trunk. All installed by my mechanic and friend Tony. Should be running tommorow cant wait :cool:


Damn you shattered all 4 pistons running 10 psi. So how much did you spend altogether? :dsm: :thumb: :dsm: Looks gr8
 
Man, after hearing that I'm getting scared to turn my up to 8psi from 5psi. I heard it was better to get your car tuned at the highest boost you will go, because it will stay tuned with less boost. So I planned on tuning at 8psi and drive 5psi daily. And just turn it up when I'm ready to run.
Sound like a good idea?
 
From what I hear you should be fine going up to 10psi or that general area as long as you supply the engine enough fuel. If you dont thats when you start breaking shit. Make sure it's not running lean. But yea I'm no turbo expert and being as how this post is about his new setup I'll say it looks damn nice! Good Luck with it :thumb:
 
EclipseTenzoR said:
From what I hear you should be fine going up to 10psi or that general area as long as you supply the engine enough fuel. If you dont thats when you start breaking shit. Make sure it's not running lean. But yea I'm no turbo expert and being as how this post is about his new setup I'll say it looks damn nice! Good Luck with it :thumb:

10psi is sitting on the edge of the cliff and really not too safe at all. you could get away with it, but you WILL break something sooner or later. and definatly dont try it on stock injectors.
 
Yes 10 psi is very unsafe it was fun for a few days while it lasted. I would recommend not going over 8psi on stock internals and make sure your car is well tuned. I have a couple quick questions: My idle fuel pressure should be 20 psi at idle right? I have 440cc injectors, sfmu, and the walbro 255 fuel pump. And where should the screws be set to on the side of sfmu: vacuum, boost, and bleed? Also what should my egt's be around??
 
i ran my stock engine at 10psi for over 22K miles, on stock injectors. the only reason my engine blew was because of a bad case of detonation, so obviously TUNING has a lot to do with longevity of a stock 420a under boost. it can be done, thats for sure. i dont recommend end it, but 9.6:1 compression and 10psi makes for a pretty badass daily driver. its no boat turbo model, so it actually boogies.

for safety's sake, push 8psi

anyway to the poster of this thread:

kickASS :) i'll tell you man, life begins at 1 bar :) you're not going to be happeier with that motor i guarantee it. brings back memories :) anyway, you didnt say anything about the clutch...you upgraded it right? if not, you're going to be slipping it like mad anything past like 13psi.

the top end with the crower 2's is badass man, i never had them on any of my 2.0's but i do have them on the 2.4....its so burly at idle it makes most honduhs want to pee their panties to sleep at night. ROFL

you're gunna faint when it first fires up...
 
So it fires up, it runs, and the idle is a little choppy also car back fires a little when driving. My idle fuel pressure is 20 i have the spark plugs gapped to 35 is this to much? to little? Also the car is shutting off when i put the car into neutral while driving for some reason. Any ideas???
 
redeclipse7782 said:
So it fires up, it runs, and the idle is a little choppy also car back fires a little when driving. My idle fuel pressure is 20 i have the spark plugs gapped to 35 is this to much? to little? Also the car is shutting off when i put the car into neutral while driving for some reason. Any ideas???

watch your Manifold pressure signal on your S-afc... when the car dies when you put it in neutral, what does the MAP sensor read right before that? this sounds a lot like my problem with the missing link. car idled fine. when i was driving i heard a couple misfires, and if i let the car lug down from above 3k rpms, the MAP sensors reading would say the vac would drop from -650 mmhg like it should be to like -90 mmhg. if i gave it gas it would jump around and hesitate and if i floored it it would jump around and the MAP sensor reading would kick back to where it was suppose to be. if i pushed the clutch in while the reading was messed up, the car would die. oh yeah it wasnt the manifold vac that would drop, it would stay where it should be(via boost gauge), it was just the MAP sensors reading that was messed up. i took the Missing link out and put a electrical FCD in and all my problems were solved
 
Where can i get a FCD from? I thought the missing link was much better then the FCD??
 
redeclipse7782 said:
Where can i get a FCD from? I thought the missing link was much better then the FCD??

i guess it depends on the fcd. ive heard of the hahn one failing. but this one is working great, and was only $20. ill talk to the guy i bought it from, he's a 2gnt member, ill see if he wants to still sell them.
 
Looks 1,000,000 times better than the last time I saw it Brian. :thumb:

redeclipse7782 said:
i have the spark plugs gapped to 35 is this to much? to little?

I have mine gapped at .032 You can gap them anywhere between .032 and .035 for turbo applications. Everyone will say different. Expirement if you have the time.
 
CrazyClipse said:
Looks 1,000,000 times better than the last time I saw it Brian. :thumb:



I have mine gapped at .032 You can gap them anywhere between .032 and .035 for turbo applications. Everyone will say different. Expirement if you have the time.

i gapped mine to .030
 
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