| 420A Drivetrain Tech Transmission, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, gears, differentials, transfer case, shifter, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. |
06-08-2006, 10:25 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 158
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Trans Rebuild - Click, Grind, Shop
So I got my transmission rebuilt. I went to Aamco. I know I know what most of you are gonna say, but that part is already done and over with. Anyways, my questions are....
1. I have a clicking noise when I take off or back up. Only does it then. Not during regular driving time. They thought it was from my suspension. However, I have replaced my struts and had my suspension looked over a few times. Also, it only appeared after they installed the tranny. Now its going back for warranty, but I just wanted to see any ideals of what if may be.
2. A brand new rebuilt tranny. Should it grind at all in higher RPMS? It works just fine but I noticed in 2nd gear when I am in higher RPMS (6-7) and I shift it still catches a little bit. Thats the only gear. Maybe they just use cheap oil? Cause sometimes in the mornings its a little sticky shifting too.
So, lesson learned here with the shop. Lets just hope they can fix all this without a hassle.
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06-09-2006, 01:50 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Region: Eastern Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,842
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Make sure the transmission fulid you are using is straight from the dealer.
Manual-transaxle fluid from the dealer, nothing less, made for our cars.
Expensive yes, but worth it yes. You only need about 2.1qt.
Clicking could be alot of things. Does it happen in just a straight line, or around corners as well?
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-Randy: Boosted since 05/05
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06-09-2006, 05:23 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 158
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by BigRand
Make sure the transmission fulid you are using is straight from the dealer.
Manual-transaxle fluid from the dealer, nothing less, made for our cars.
Expensive yes, but worth it yes. You only need about 2.1qt.
Clicking could be alot of things. Does it happen in just a straight line, or around corners as well?
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Good question. Mainly straight lines, however, I thought I heard it click once on a turn. Can't say for sure though. I should also mention I have heard it occassionally on a big bump.
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06-09-2006, 07:46 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Region: Eastern Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,842
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honestly I dont' know what to tell you, except to let them figure it out, especially if its under warranty.
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-Randy: Boosted since 05/05
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06-09-2006, 09:04 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Joliet, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Nov 2003
Posts: 411
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Ask the shop if they used aftermarket rebuild parts. For second gear they must have since the factory requires you to replace the output shaft which is 1200.-1500. I have noticed the Brass synchro rings are not as good as the factory style rings at high rpm shifting. All aftermarket kits are brass.
Verify the shop has installed brass synchro-rings, if so then try an 80w gearlube for manual trannys. I havent tried that one yet. If that doesnt do it then remove the gear lube and deal with it.
I am curious to hear what the shop tells you
Terry
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MS powered 2.XL
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06-10-2006, 01:06 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Los Angeles, California
Region: SoCal
Registered: Nov 2003
Posts: 734
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Don't know if it's the same problem, but I had clicking under starting too. Check the crossmember, it's the black brace that's under the engine, you use it to jack up the front of the car, it runs parallel to the car pretty much in the middle. There are 2 bolts right behind the front bumper that hold this crossmember to the chassis, mine were loose. This crossmember is part of the engine and transmission mount, so when you start to move the engine/tranny move and cause the crossmember to move, making this noise. I tightened the bolts up and it went away. Just make sure to put upward pressure on the crossmember when you tighten the bolts, as in using a jack to lift the car. That way the crossmember is flush to the chassis when you start to tighten it. The bolts might be hard to tighten too. It's common after a tranny rebuild because you need to remove that crossmember in order to pull the tranny.
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2.3L GT30R 99 GSX...road racing FTW!
-Beau
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06-11-2006, 05:20 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 158
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Thanks guys! I appreciate all your tips! I will see what I can do and if I have to take it to the shop I will let you guys know.
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