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2.4L Engine Swap info needed

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It is but you need to either know alot about fixing cars, or your mechanic has to be real smart. :)

On www.2gnt.com , there are 4 that Iv'e known (and some in the process) that have done it. Widebodied, 1Bill , Motofool, and Skrilla (who was the first) , have done it. You need a custom hood for the extra 1 inch clearance, custom mounts, oil pan loads of other crap etc.
This is from a conversation I had with Motofool:
witha n/a 2.4 your looking close to 250whp witha ported head and cams,

10psi on 2.4 your looking close to 400whp
and depending on the turbo that wil spool at about 2200-3k rpms
and the problems you'll see are your drivetrain compenets will start snapping,
the 2.4 is a cheaper motor to build as long as u get a sub 30k mile motor to use the srt4 internals in (only come std bore so u need a newish condition motor)
those internals can hold massive amounts of bosot being 8.1:1 compression,
the swap isn't TOO hard its just buy the right parts and having a couple made (im on top fo the fabricating end already)
 
Pain in the ASS!!! but posible with custom parts you have to do it your self because there aren't any shops that do this swap for our car. THere are only acouple of people that have done this.
The 4g63 swap is not worth it and is almost impossible and it is eaiser to Turbo and re-build and cheaper too.. why spend alot of money to have a stock motor when you can re-build and turbo for cheaper.
 
Thanls for the help. WHen that kit comes out, I'd definately like to see it. Just too see what the costs are over building the 420a. Also, any suggestions on where one can purchase the engine?
 
You can find those motors at the bone yard. They are 420a motors out of the cerius, and some minivans. It is the 2.4L verison of your 420a motor. There are other cars they come from too, I just don't remember them off hand. Even with a kit, this will still be a pain in the ass, just so everyone knows. You still have to tune cam magnets and all that. But the pre built custom parts will make it eaiser.
 
Ok guys this sounds like the best way to start adding power to a 420A.....

Now if i understand correctly what one does is take all the bottom end + block of 420A of the minivan and use the ported + moddified head of your eclipse.....

So in other words i need Crankcase, crankshaft, pistons, rods, and block (plus the rest of small stuf like gaskets and rings)....

2.4 420A with turbo and intercooler sounds like it would own the setup
4g63 ..if modified properly

I just blew out the bottom end of my 420A ( combination of bad luck + stupid sensor dying and me not realizing , 120 F day....= very very bad for my engine)..today is the day it goes under the knife to see what goes in the garbage can

It would be good to make a list of items one needs and the ones one needs to modify to make the swap happen


:dsm: :thumb:
 
From Motofool :

1. Passenger side motor mount bracket, to bolt the 2GNT rubber mount to the block
2. 2GNT motor mounts (for the rest of them) since they are on the transmission
3. 22% more fuel, to compensate for the extra displacement. Gain fuel by using larger injectors, higher base fuel pressure, or an sAFC
4. 2GNT lower water pipe, since the 2.4L one is too short. You need to find a better way to support it, as the bracket for it does not bolt up to the 2.4 properly
5. 2.4L head bolts, since the corners from the 2GNT head bolts are too short
6. custom accessory brackets, presuming you want power steering and AC
7. PT Cruiser lower alternator bracket
8. 2GNT upper alternator bracket bolts on (only godda*ned 2GNT thing that bolts to the block properly!)
9. 2GNT transmission
10. tinsnips to create clearance in the lower water pipe bracket for starter clearance
11. modified oil pan, since there is a notch for the crossmember, but none for the exhaust
12. modified exhaust, since the motor is 1" taller, you exhaust must go 1" further down.
13. crank trigger for CAS is 180* advanced. You must file the locating nipples off of the cam angle sensor magnet, and advance it 90*, as 90* cam is 180* crank.
14. 2GNT sensors in the block (knock, oil pressure, crank position sensor)
15. Some wiring needs to be extended, since the extra 1" of deck height will actually make some things a stretch. Might want to baffle the oil pan and remove the balance shafts* while you are in there.

*now, the balance shaft removal. Easy as sh*t, actually. pull the oil pan off, unbolt the box that has a
chain connecting it to the crank, cut the chain. Last move is to plug the oiling hole for the balance shafts.
Just tap it and screw a bolt in there. You will recognize it, it's a small hole next to one of the bolt holes
for the b-shaft box. Really easy, especially when compared to the 4G6X balance shafts...
 
Annywhere u know where i can find drawings, or spec sheets with the dimensions of 420A in 2.0 and 2.4 flavours....just to kinda gime an idea of anny other stuff i might run into doing this swap

:dsm: :thumb:
 
ok ive taken the leap, and I'm starting this 2.4 project next week. A friend of mine will build the block, then I'll take it from there. Hopefully by the end of summer I'll have it up and running. Now all I gotta do is save up enough $ for the axles, 3.55 tranny, and stage 4 clutch. :(
 
Not to appear dumb, but do you actually need to replace the block? Is it possible to use the 2.0 block and a 2.4 head? I believe a bunch of neon people do that conversion, keeping thier stock block but only changing the head. I know its not exactly the same setup, but can it be done?
 
a 2.4 head faces the opposite way our engine faces (exahust manifold on the top, intake manifold on the bottom) . Neon guys get a DOHC 2.0 head and only use the 2.4 bottom end block. I as others whove done this, will be using the stock 2.0 420a head on a 2.4L block. Hi. :)
 
Originally posted by Initial DSM
From Motofool :

1. Passenger side motor mount bracket, to bolt the 2GNT rubber mount to the block
2. 2GNT motor mounts (for the rest of them) since they are on the transmission
3. 22% more fuel, to compensate for the extra displacement. Gain fuel by using larger injectors, higher base fuel pressure, or an sAFC
4. 2GNT lower water pipe, since the 2.4L one is too short. You need to find a better way to support it, as the bracket for it does not bolt up to the 2.4 properly
5. 2.4L head bolts, since the corners from the 2GNT head bolts are too short
6. custom accessory brackets, presuming you want power steering and AC
7. PT Cruiser lower alternator bracket
8. 2GNT upper alternator bracket bolts on (only godda*ned 2GNT thing that bolts to the block properly!)
9. 2GNT transmission
10. tinsnips to create clearance in the lower water pipe bracket for starter clearance
11. modified oil pan, since there is a notch for the crossmember, but none for the exhaust
12. modified exhaust, since the motor is 1" taller, you exhaust must go 1" further down.
13. crank trigger for CAS is 180* advanced. You must file the locating nipples off of the cam angle sensor magnet, and advance it 90*, as 90* cam is 180* crank.
14. 2GNT sensors in the block (knock, oil pressure, crank position sensor)
15. Some wiring needs to be extended, since the extra 1" of deck height will actually make some things a stretch. Might want to baffle the oil pan and remove the balance shafts* while you are in there.

*now, the balance shaft removal. Easy as sh*t, actually. pull the oil pan off, unbolt the box that has a
chain connecting it to the crank, cut the chain. Last move is to plug the oiling hole for the balance shafts.
Just tap it and screw a bolt in there. You will recognize it, it's a small hole next to one of the bolt holes
for the b-shaft box. Really easy, especially when compared to the 4G6X balance shafts...

Same exact thing The1Bill posted like a month ago.
 
smiles u boyz make me proud usgins my posts

DSM-Zero un twisting the tape and the wire protectors on 4 injectors and moving them down one cylinder makes it totaly not worth the 22% more displacement...(just messing with ya man)

rewiring the coil pack too swap some plug wires..

this swap comapred to the early honda swaps is a cake walk in the park..

dont get me wrong its not easy but me and the other bill and brynden with his 2.6 and the other couple runnign around there will be enough tech support running around

i have another 2.4 runnign through the shop next week im building for initial fully coated and forged botom end

Bill
 
Heh... I am swapping the spring loaded timing belt tensioner out and using a solid tensioner from Blackdog motorsports. That's the latest (won't call it the last) holdup. There are 2 bolts that hold the tensioner through the oil pump and into the block. The 2GNT bolts aren't long enough, as the 2.4 bolts need to go through the tensioner, the spacers on the rear timing cover (or the washers if you don't use timing belt covers), the 1" thick spacer, half of an inch of oil pump, and thread into the block. I decided to use factory bolts, and they are on their way from Fenton Dodge. Then, I will be able to time the motor. I'll drive on this motor (with SRT-4 internals) until it blows, and then it's time for a real motor, which will look somewhat like Bry_den's motor, except for Pauter rods and Arias pistons. Another neat feature of the 2.4, besides low end torque, is that it is non-interference. That means that I could cut the belt with a sword while the motor is running, and nothing bad will happen. It's also nice that it uses the stock PCM, so that means that I will be able to rev this up to 7200. The real motor will be balanced, and possibly revved to 7800 or so.
-=B-=
 
Originally posted by The1Bill
Heh... I am swapping the spring loaded timing belt tensioner out and using a solid tensioner from Blackdog motorsports. That's the latest (won't call it the last) holdup. There are 2 bolts that hold the tensioner through the oil pump and into the block. The 2GNT bolts aren't long enough, as the 2.4 bolts need to go through the tensioner, the spacers on the rear timing cover (or the washers if you don't use timing belt covers), the 1" thick spacer, half of an inch of oil pump, and thread into the block. I decided to use factory bolts, and they are on their way from Fenton Dodge. Then, I will be able to time the motor. I'll drive on this motor (with SRT-4 internals) until it blows, and then it's time for a real motor, which will look somewhat like Bry_den's motor, except for Pauter rods and Arias pistons. Another neat feature of the 2.4, besides low end torque, is that it is non-interference. That means that I could cut the belt with a sword while the motor is running, and nothing bad will happen. It's also nice that it uses the stock PCM, so that means that I will be able to rev this up to 7200. The real motor will be balanced, and possibly revved to 7800 or so.
-=B-=

What do you think Bryden's car will redline at, and do you feel the 2.6L is a sturdy mod? reliable I mean
 
i feel if the driver understands what goes on ina 2.6 mod and changes the rest of the motor setup Takes care of it, knowing it has thin cylinder walls it shouldn't be a huge issue...

large aluminum radiator high flow fans synthetic radiator fluid with soem water wetter

things like that would increase the life of the motor...

redline is what a stock 2gnt has

the 4g63 boys with the 4g64 motors runna 100mm stroke which is 1mm less then the 2.4 and they run em to 9500rpms why cant we?
(havent seen it yet, also havent seen a 2.4 or ehard of one blowing up because of it getting over reved yet (built motor or not)

Bill
 
hehe guess wiring in a air fuel controller would be the hardest thing in the world then since tehre are more wires and u actually have splice them instead of just plugging them into a different hole eh?

:laugh: :talon: :rolleyes:
 
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