SoCal99GS
Probationary Member
- 4
- 0
- Jun 11, 2003
Is it possible? Or is it as much of a pain as the 4G6 swap?
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Originally posted by Initial DSM
From Motofool :
1. Passenger side motor mount bracket, to bolt the 2GNT rubber mount to the block
2. 2GNT motor mounts (for the rest of them) since they are on the transmission
3. 22% more fuel, to compensate for the extra displacement. Gain fuel by using larger injectors, higher base fuel pressure, or an sAFC
4. 2GNT lower water pipe, since the 2.4L one is too short. You need to find a better way to support it, as the bracket for it does not bolt up to the 2.4 properly
5. 2.4L head bolts, since the corners from the 2GNT head bolts are too short
6. custom accessory brackets, presuming you want power steering and AC
7. PT Cruiser lower alternator bracket
8. 2GNT upper alternator bracket bolts on (only godda*ned 2GNT thing that bolts to the block properly!)
9. 2GNT transmission
10. tinsnips to create clearance in the lower water pipe bracket for starter clearance
11. modified oil pan, since there is a notch for the crossmember, but none for the exhaust
12. modified exhaust, since the motor is 1" taller, you exhaust must go 1" further down.
13. crank trigger for CAS is 180* advanced. You must file the locating nipples off of the cam angle sensor magnet, and advance it 90*, as 90* cam is 180* crank.
14. 2GNT sensors in the block (knock, oil pressure, crank position sensor)
15. Some wiring needs to be extended, since the extra 1" of deck height will actually make some things a stretch. Might want to baffle the oil pan and remove the balance shafts* while you are in there.
*now, the balance shaft removal. Easy as sh*t, actually. pull the oil pan off, unbolt the box that has a
chain connecting it to the crank, cut the chain. Last move is to plug the oiling hole for the balance shafts.
Just tap it and screw a bolt in there. You will recognize it, it's a small hole next to one of the bolt holes
for the b-shaft box. Really easy, especially when compared to the 4G6X balance shafts...

Originally posted by The1Bill
Heh... I am swapping the spring loaded timing belt tensioner out and using a solid tensioner from Blackdog motorsports. That's the latest (won't call it the last) holdup. There are 2 bolts that hold the tensioner through the oil pump and into the block. The 2GNT bolts aren't long enough, as the 2.4 bolts need to go through the tensioner, the spacers on the rear timing cover (or the washers if you don't use timing belt covers), the 1" thick spacer, half of an inch of oil pump, and thread into the block. I decided to use factory bolts, and they are on their way from Fenton Dodge. Then, I will be able to time the motor. I'll drive on this motor (with SRT-4 internals) until it blows, and then it's time for a real motor, which will look somewhat like Bry_den's motor, except for Pauter rods and Arias pistons. Another neat feature of the 2.4, besides low end torque, is that it is non-interference. That means that I could cut the belt with a sword while the motor is running, and nothing bad will happen. It's also nice that it uses the stock PCM, so that means that I will be able to rev this up to 7200. The real motor will be balanced, and possibly revved to 7800 or so.
-=B-=
Originally posted by DSM-ZERO
You also have to re-wire your injectors, and re-wire your coil pack.
SEE, PAIN IN THE ASS!!!

