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2GNTs can you do me a favor?

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1TuffRS

20+ Year Contributor
435
0
Jun 16, 2002
OK, besides my car having higher compression than normal Im wondering if it may be lighter than it supposed to be. If you guys could do me the favor of looking in your door jams and checking the weight of your car. Just tell me the highest # there so I can compare them to mine. I dont know what equation your supposed to use to actually figure out how much your car weighs with nothing in it, but Doug99RS and I are thinking you should subtract 185 x 4 (the weight of 4 men) from the largest # to get a rough extimate of the weight of the car empty. Anyway, with all that being said, my car supposedly weighs 3217lbs fully loaded, so that would mean it would weigh 2460, but I know thats not right. Give me your opinion.
 
Did you buy your car brand new? Someone told me you could up your compression a little bit by getting a different headgasket? Is this true or just stupid ricers acting like they know sh!t?
 
well if you can find a headgasket that is thinner than the stock one, yes you can up your compression. I dont think they make thinner headgaskets for our cars though, it would be better to mill the head to raise compression.
 
The highest number on mine is 3726 (damb I should be driving a CADDY) ......... Hope this helps! makes me sick though to see such a beautiful car weigh in so much, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!! and then I see these little honDUH hatchbacks running around at 1500 - 1700 pounds! AND I STILL SMOKE EM'! HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA! I even have a buddy that has the b18a(I think thats what it is) in his civic hatchback, and he still can't compete!
 
my car says 3858 but I don't think your theory is right cause my car weighs in at just over 2700lbs.
 
the big number is supposed to be the most weight the car can hold supposedly
 
Originally posted by dudasd
Not sure why yours is supposedly a "freak" Remember mine was 215-218 across the board w/ 100K plus on the odometer. Your engine is still pretty damn new......

I know this post is old but I just noticed this post and I feel the need to respond. My car is a freak because it can run consistent 15.4s with minimal mods done to it, you spent over 3gs and while you dropped your 1/4 mile times to a 14.8, your still no where near as fast as my car would be if I added 6lbs of boost. Werent you running low 16s before you boosted it?? even if boost only takes a second off my 1/4 mile time your ass is mine. :thumb:
 
Yeah but also remember that my car was pushing 100K plus on the odometer before I even took it to the track and yours has a new short block in it that seems to keep getting overlooked....your never ran it before the new shortblock so we have no before/after baseline on how much of a change that made.....
 
ok now 1G dsm curb weight ,witch means fully loaded with a full tank of gas but no driver included is 2690lb for 2L N/A cars , For 1G turbo-front wheel drive it is 2778lb and 1G turbo AWD is 3093lb (WITH MANUAL TRANSMISION) cuz the autos are hevier (about 80lb hevier).

2G fully loaded with full tank of gas,no driver is for RS model weight is 2760lb(all) ; for GS is 2855lb(all) ; for GST is 2900lb(from 95-97), 2920lb (98), 2970lb(99) ; for GSX is 3130lb(from 95-97), 3157lb(98), 3270lb(99) ; Spyder GS is 2888lb(all) ; Spyder GST is 3053lb(all) (all with MANUAL TRANSMISION) autos are 80lb hevier.

I hope now that all is clear bout the stock weights of the Eclipses.I think the Talons are going to be the same.
:thumb: :dsm:
 
Originally posted by dudasd
Yeah but also remember that my car was pushing 100K plus on the odometer before I even took it to the track and yours has a new short block in it that seems to keep getting overlooked....your never ran it before the new shortblock so we have no before/after baseline on how much of a change that made.....

LOL, well I guess that really shows how much ya know man. I didnt spin the bearing(s) in the old block until last year. I was running 16.1s and 16.2s with just a hacked airbox and a GST muffler on the old block and that was with 2.3-2.4 60' times. Didnt you have a CAI, exhaust, and some other stuff done to your car and you still didnt even break out of the 16s. After the new block I added an exhaust and broke into the 15s with a 2.3x 60' time. Now that I've learned how to drive and have more mods on my car my times have dropped accordingly. So yeah, the new block didnt give me any performance gains. But regardless, how many 2GNTs do you even see in the mid to low 15s? Of all the people I have run across online I can only count on one hand the people that are running 15.5s and below all motor, and the few that are running that quick or quicker have more mods than me. When I ran the 15.46 all I had was a CAI, exhaust, Jeep TB, and UDP
 
You know we can debate this for days, guess the only thing I have left to offer is that you quit buying side skirts and cosmetic mods and get your turbo fund going again and then we shall see just how well it does, until then all the guessing is pretty pointless... I honestly can care less. The bottom line is that your car in NA form is quicker than most NA's and you keep trying to find ways to justify it instead of just enjoying it. Save your money, get your kit and then maybe I'll have a reason to pull mine off the jack stands and do some work on it......until then it will be as it has always been, a car....nothing special and nothing to argue about.
And just for the record it was a 14.7...now it doesn;t run at all and I can honestly give a $hit less about it anymore....if I decide to fix it good, if not it's no big loss.....
 
like stated earlier:

GVWR= gross vehicular weight rating (max weight you can hold)
GAWR= gross axle weight rating (should be one for front and back axle)

Car weight is really Neither....

weird factoid=Reason for GVWR is to let know if your vehicle can be considered heavy duty (which means it can transport in exess of 8499.99 lb including itself)..if you have a heavy duty vehicle it has in manny states a diferent emission standards testing, among other stuff
 
Not to mention that it takes into account if someone is running what they have or going out and doing weight reductions OMG and switching to smaller rims OMG etc.... times will vary considerably depending on how much junk is in the car. I have always just showed up and ran because if I come across someone on the street it's not like your gonna have time to say "hold on, let me pull out my back seat, switch to smaller rims etc..." So vehicle weight and "accessory" weight must all be taken into account when factoring in your times. MOST 2GNT's should be around the same weight with certain minor variances by trim levels. Mine for example may have the least amount of weight of all of them due to it being the wonderful "Coupe" model that is below an RS and has absolutely no creature comforts except for A/C but that is all offset by the 400+ lbs of stereo eqpt, misc junk and spare parts in the back seat etc......only way to truly tell what your given weight is would be to go to the scales and have it weighed with you in it. Then you'll know...then of course subtract for everything you may remove on track days.
 
First off, I looked at that little sticker again and I was wrong, it wasnt 3217lbs, it was 3717lbs LOL. But anyway.....


Well Don, my car is just an RS, and the only creature comforts it had that yours didnt was a gauge cluster with a tach and a sunroof, so our stock weights should be close right. Yes, I did remove the back seats, the sub, the passenger seat, and put my stock wheels back on when I ran the 15.4 but can you honestly say that you could beat me at my full weight when you were NA, LOL. If memory serves me correctly we never actually raced, but Joe and Melissa's GS beat you, and I had two car lengths on their car before I got out of second, so I think not. Regardless its useless to debate it now. How about you work on getting your car rebuilt because by feb. we should really be able to just race and end all this. If it makes you feel any better I will be boosting my car in January. I recently moved off campus and got a new job at Time Warner Cable. I actually had the money last month, but I thought it better to replace my bent GSX rims with some Rotas, bought a new computer to replace my shitty ass one I had and I actually loaned another $900 to a family member. But dont fret, because the only bills I now have are rent and the phone bill (cable is free :thumb: ) and now that I work at TWC Im making almost 4 times what I did at my old job so currently I am saving money for rebuild parts. I will have all the parts to rebuild my block and hopefully the head as well, by the end of jan. beginnin of feb. and with my healthy refund check will be ordering my kit at the beginning of january. Since we can no longer compare your NA car to mine we will just have to race then won't we.

Oh and here is a recent pic

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If you really want to know how much your car weighs, get a ruler and a tire pressure gauge. Measure the square inches of the contact patch of a tire - the area of the rubber actually touching the ground. Then meaure the tire pressure. You know have an area in sq. inches and a pressure value in lbs/sq. inch. Multiply the two together and you now know how many lbs that tire is supporting. Do that for all 4 tires and add them together. Now you know how much your weighs without trying to find a truck scale.
 
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