[RESOLVED] should I have done this?

[96talon420a]

420a non turbo 96 talon base
I Was doing some coolant system upgrades and AC core and heater core delete and I noticed that the coolant lines that run to the heater core are the only things that are causing my coolant lines to run to the back of my motor and by my CA intake and over my headers so I figured--
Why not delete them all together for cooler engine but should I have done it cause it is now seeming that I blocked coolant flow to an important part:
to the block or thermostat or water pump maybe or maybe it was a smart idea
what do you guys think..

[Anubis_4_99]

From what i've read in my searches for answers to the same question (wanting to delete those hard lines) you need to loop those lines otherwise you will fubar something in the coolant system causing issues. I don't remember off hand what that is, maybe someone else will chime in that does, but if i were you i would get some heater hose and loop it and see if that solves your issue.

[jayson427]

deleting the heater core does not give you a cooler running engine. it just give you no heat in your car. and seeing that your from montana i think you would want that.

[96talon420a]

I know that the heater core delete wont cool my engine but it will remove lines that run very close to my intake so it will keep my intake from that much more heat
yeah I was thinking that i would have to reatacth the lines cause it seems to be running fairly hot

[bullettdsm]

I've tried this experiment and (for what ever reason; redirection of flow; pressure of flow in different spots; less coolant in the system etc.,) the engine ran hotter.

I'd put it back on.

MB

[glowryder]

ED peters also confirmed this when the neon guys do it. Its strange, but like Bullet said, it does do some weird thing with the pressure. You can loop it , ans still leave the hard pipe out. thats seems to "fix" the issue.

[96talon420a]

That sucks that it messses it up I guess I will put it back together by looping it
It seemed like a good idea but it does seem to run hotter with it gone

[glowryder]

Less surface area i imagine.. As for the pressure stuff, I trust Ed peters, he kinda was involved in desining the engine lol.

[AngelOfPassion]

You need to do something like this... I did it on mine. Scroll down to post #9 to see pictures.

Help Bypass Heater Core, 2g n/t 420a

[VelocitàPaola]

I removed mine and plugged the ports on the thermostat housing and lower radiator pipe. No problems in over 10,000 miles... Like Mark and others said, I don't think there's any performance gain, though. I only removed mine to use those ports to water cool my turbo (eventually). Also, I'm in Florida, so I don't care about the heater too much.

[96' Eclipse GS]

A possible inefficient water pump/blockage throughout the cooling system being that it now has a shorter route could cause his car to work harder forcing higher temps, unlike your car that has a rather efficient cooling system if it is rock solid. My $0.02 though.

[VelocitàPaola]

Sure, a blockage in the cooling system would make any car run hotter.

[3kgt2nv]

I bypassed mine with a loop from the water pipe to the back of the thermostat housing to help prevent a pressure buildup and water pump from experiencing cavitation as it fores the thermostat open to relieve pressure.

the loop allows the water pump to draw coolant from the housing preventing it from bottle necking behind the thermostat and raising the pressure in the cooling system

[glowryder]

From some one with alot of experiance with these motors...food for thought

"Here is the real deal on the heater circuit.
It doubles as the thermostat bypass circuit.
There HAS to be a bypass path to allow flow when the thermostat is closed for the cooling system to function correctly.

Without the heater loop there is no water flow past the thermostat or circulation in the head.
This causes hot spots in the motor and can/will allow steam pockets to form.
When the thermostat is closed coolant MUST flow in the motor to keep the temps even and prevent hot spots.
This flow also brings circulated coolant past the thermostat so it knows what the real coolant temp is.

It there is no coolant flow there will be very hot spots in the head (overheating)
this will contribute to steam pockets,
steam pockets do not cool the head,
the formation of steam pockets forces coolant out of the head,
which causes the head to get hotter and make more steam pockets.

To stop this from happening Mopar used the flow through the heater to circulate the coolant in the motor while the thermostat is closed.
This MUST happen to prevent steam pockets from forming by circulating the coolant inside the motor and mixing the hot and cold portions of coolant also moving coolant past the thermostat so it knows what the real coolant temp is. This actually assists the up warm up process by circulating the hot coolant from the head to the cold bottom of the motor and spreads the heat more evenly, the largest percentage of heat in the coolant by far comes from the head."

Will it work without bypassing.. yup. sure will. Can you drink Gas? Sure.. its all about whats adviseable, and neither i would advise.. Imo, just loop the dam thing and be done. FWW, i dont have mine bypassed. I notice temp fluxations but no overheating. I am bypassying my T stat to my hard pipe this week.

[blindboarder_02]

If you want to stop heat soak from getting into the intake, try wrapping the intake pipe with some insulated cover. Heat soak is going to happen to matter what. You can try to keep temps down, which is understandable and desired, but you'll never stop it from totally happening.

If you really want the temps down under the hood, add another fan. If the A/C condensor is deleted it would make it easier to add a push fan on the front side of the radiator. You could always try using a 160* Tstat. It will open sooner causing the system to circulate at that temp instead of say 180*-190*

I've often wondered if it would be possible to add in an electric water pump for added flow and better cooling. I'm sure it's possible, I haven't seen it yet though. Or maybe a reverse flow style system. Instead of block to head, it would be backwards. Head to block. Just a couple of things I've wondered.

Also, If the heater core would be taken out, and a LARGER heater core added, more coolant could be kept in the system-allowing more heat to be dissipated from the system. Again- just random thoughts.

[VelocitàPaola]

Originally Posted by glowryder

From some one with alot of experiance with these motors...food for thought

I have "alot of experiance [sic]" with these motors too, but... no problems in 10k+ miles. If you're concerned about it, loop the lines.

Originally Posted by blindboarder_02

If you really want the temps down under the hood, add another fan. If the A/C condensor is deleted it would make it easier to add a push fan on the front side of the radiator. You could always try using a 160* Tstat. It will open sooner causing the system to circulate at that temp instead of say 180*-190*

Adding another fan won't help unless the system is overheating, in which case something's wrong. The only way to lower the temperature is to use a different thermostat -- but that's not necessarily a good thing.

Originally Posted by blindboarder_02

I've often wondered if it would be possible to add in an electric water pump for added flow and better cooling. I'm sure it's possible, I haven't seen it yet though. Or maybe a reverse flow style system. Instead of block to head, it would be backwards. Head to block. Just a couple of things I've wondered.

I believe both of these things have been done in 4G63 cars.

[blindboarder_02]

Paul-

I've seen a few 4g's with reverse flow and electric water pumps. Tim Zimmer (twicks69) has this setup and it works beautifully in his car.

After I thought about the idea of an extra water pump I came up with the conclusion that the 420A water pump wouldn't be able to keep up with the added flow. It might - or it might not. If anyone has any info on this, it would be nice to see the results.

[VelocitàPaola]

Originally Posted by blindboarder_02

I've seen a few 4g's with reverse flow and electric water pumps. Tim Zimmer (twicks69) has this setup and it works beautifully in his car.

After I thought about the idea of an extra water pump I came up with the conclusion that the 420A water pump wouldn't be able to keep up with the added flow. It might - or it might not. If anyone has any info on this, it would be nice to see the results.

Cool. I don't know that many 420A owners would benefit from such an extreme cooling system, but I'm sure anything can be made to work.

[96talon420a]

Is there a place that I can buy a preformance racing thermostat say 150-160
cause I tried buying off extreme psi and didnt realize that those are for V6 models so i am still stuck with my stock 195 thermostat

[bullettdsm]

Originally Posted by glowryder

ED peters also confirmed this when the neon guys do it. Its strange, but like Bullet said, it does do some weird thing with the pressure. You can loop it , ans still leave the hard pipe out. thats seems to "fix" the issue.

Goddamn right Ed agree's with me !

As for electric pumps, they have been done for years. But the advantage is normally taking off load to the rotating mass of the engine (i.e. free up ponies)

MB