420A Bolt-on TechIntake, exhaust, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. New Members must limit their 420A tech posts to this forum.
I have a 95 talon esi. When it warms up a Little bit it begins to miss-fire and shuts off if i let it run that long. Then it wont start at all till it sits for a few hours and cools down.
I ran a code reader it said p0351 ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction.
I replaced the coil and still the same thing happens.
I do know before i got it the cam sensor , the map sensor and both sensors on the throttle body also.
Any info would be very helpful I"m lost at this point.
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You should try to change the coolant temperature sensor. I don't know where it is located on a 420A but your repair manual should know. They are pretty cheap too. If this sensor is misreading it can change your air/fuel ratio and by the way make the engine misfire causing a P0351.
X2 on that! Its the only thing that really changes as the car warms up that can also change your a/f's. You here a lot of people complaining about that issue on here also, so it must happen semi-frequently
Thanks i'll try that one.. someone said the crank sensor will do it also?
anyone heard of that?
Nope, never. If you have problems with your crank sensor generally speaking the car will not run at all. It wont even fire if there is a problem, it stops power to the coil. The ignition timing is controlled by a number of things, one of which is the Crank position sensor.
If the car knocks off and won't restart then a crank sensor is still a possible component that is failing. Most of the time you'll see a cam/crank code appear AFTER you get it to run again. Most of the no-start conditions I've fixed where the crank sensor was the failing component, there was no code until AFTER I got the car running.
Unplugging the temperature sensor would basically suggest that the coolant temp sensor is either shorting out the reference voltage going to or causing the computer to freak out OR the sensor is still reading but it's not reading the RIGHT temp for the engine's actual condition. This would cause the a/f ratio to be out of whack and the car will run poorly or fail to restart until it cools back down. This typically won't throw an ignition circuit code.
The code you posted up deals with ignition PRIMARY circuit failure meaning the voltage going TO the coil is not what it should be, after the coil is energized and spark is produced, that then becomes a SECONDARY ignition voltage leaving the coil, going through the wires and to the spark plugs. I would venture to say that your problem deals with where that PRIMARY voltage is coming from.
There are two relays on the firewall (three if automajic). One is the ASD relay which provides power to the coil and injectors. I would suspect that to be the problem based on the combination of the no-start when hot and the fault code you posted. If you unplug the ECT (Coolant) sensor then you won't know, without a scanner, if you have multiple codes or just the one you create by unplugging the ECT.
Doug
Another thing to check is the harness that runs right beside the EGR tube. Tons of people have reported the harness being melted and shorting out there.
and when i unplug the temp sensor it is still p0351 and also p0118 Electronic coolant temperature(ECT) sensor circuit high input. The ASD relay mines is an Auto. Were is it located at on the firewall i have 4 in the drivers side fire way .. I know the one on the brake booster side is the fuel pump i replaced it, but the other 3 i'm unsure
i'll check the harness also. That Egr pipe gets hot? i didnt know that
I just replaced that ASD relay with o good one i had here. That didn't seem to change it.
I plugged the temp sensor in and started it let it run and it did the miss fire thing.. I unpluged it and the car stopped miss firing and ran fine let it run a bit plug it back in and it starts to miss fires again.
i'll check the harness also. That Egr pipe gets hot? i didnt know that
Yeah, It's a pretty big known failure point on the 2gnt. The zip tie gets brittle and breaks then the harness falls onto the hot pipe and melts stuff. not fun.
Sounds like most of your issue is the coolant temp sensor though. I'd definitely start with changing that and clearing the CEL's. If the ignition coil circuit code comes back then you'll know it's not a fluke.
Mine did the same thing and I just got it fixed. I know noone will beleive me and say wtf, but you may want to get that alternator tested, after all its free. Yes my battery was staying charged too but when the car got hot the diode in the alternator started acting up and sending the wrong voltages to all the sensors, hard to beleive but since the new alternator not one miss.
Ok new crank sensor and it runs alot better.. It needs a head gasket now.. i got a head off a kid its ported and polished and good so im gonna put it on. maybe put a bottom end in it too
wow it sucks to get to the timing belt anyone know of any easy tips ?
Ok new crank sensor and it runs alot better.. It needs a head gasket now.. i got a head off a kid its ported and polished and good so im gonna put it on. maybe put a bottom end in it too
wow it sucks to get to the timing belt anyone know of any easy tips ?
The crank sensor stopped it from running and miss firing and shutting down.. But low compression in #2and4 didnt help. the motors out now getting rebuilt
