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Cylinder head damage

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420a_turbo

10+ Year Contributor
120
2
Aug 11, 2009
Omaha, Nebraska
Ok, So after tooling around on here for a couple days I cannot find an answer to my ? Hopefully someone on here can help me out.

I have 2 Cylinder heads lying around and I want to use one for a fresh new build. Problem is that one of the heads had a t-belt break, the other I hydro-locked under boost.

So, on the first head this is what happened. I broke a t-belt, and a valve busted off in my piston. The valve smacked around in there and there are a couple dings in the combustion chamber. None of the damage is near the valve seats, and my impression is that the Valve should still be able to close no prob. Actually the only damage is in the curve of the chamber, not on any valve or the core for the spark plug. So, since there are imperfections in the chamber is this head bad? Are there any options?

Cylinder head #2. I had done a build in '06, and less then 3k miles later I hit a wicked storm and sucked up water under boost. I blew rod #1 and rod Number 3 was bent like a J. I was soooo pissed, like $2500 down the drain. Anyways, I had a 5-angle job and the head decked during the course of the build. Now there is a straight line, that runs parallel to the lines on the head from the machine work. It is not a wiggly line/crack, but you can feel it with your fingernail. It sorta looks like the line was already there and I can see it now because there is dirt in it. The head is flat, no warping or other damage. All valves open/close without any issues. But the line that runs from the #3 combustion chamber to the side of the head has caused me to toss it to the side until this point. Is this head any good? Can I use this one? Do I have any options? Can I get it decked again to take the line out? It isn't measurable, and from the side of the head you cant even see the blemish. You can only see it if you are starring at the combustion chamber.... Should I even worry about it? It will be on a fully built bottom end. I just wrapped that up last night, thought I would ask around about my heads before I buy another one(already have 4, 2 just described/2 in action).

On a side note, I am a true DSM guy. I have 5 blocks/4heads, Ive earned my stripes if you catch my drift.....


I am only going to run around 12-15 PSI nothing too crazy. Its my DD, she is just starting to burn a little blue during shifts and to reduce down time I have been building her a new motor. The rear main was leaking a bit as well as a spot on the bedplate I must've missed with the anaerobic sealant too-so i decided to swap motors and throw this one on the stand for some lovin'


Any input would be appreciated.

Thanx-Justin
 
After talking to a buddy at a local machine shop, He says your first one is better for building. With the one that has a line running from a chamber to the side of the head, you could run into sealing issues. With your other head that just has a slight blemish in the chamber, you'd be looking at POSSIBLY a slightly lower compression rating.
 
Just to be on the safe side, you may want to run your heads/blocks by your localy trusted machine shop just to get the "OK" before proceeding into the build.:thumb:
 
Well see thats the deal. Machine shop told me the head was flat, all the valve seals were good, no damage to any valves, landings, seals, springs etc.

But he couldnt tell me if the line/scratch was fatal without taking the whole head apart and checking into it further. To me, if its flat, no horrid cracks, all valves in perfect condition then whats the deal? Im not pushing crazy power, so I dont feel like further damage would be an issue either. Im not running a cometic on this build so shouldnt the oem HG I have have a little extra gasket to seal? I dunno, there isnt really a whole lot on the net to read about it other then crack/line/blemish=no good. Like I was saying, the mark isnt visible from the side view of the head, only when you look at the combustion chamber. There are no other stress marks around that area at all.

Maybe I will try another machine shop. It sucks, but they basically want the same money to do a valve job as they do to pull everything and inspect. So I would be in the same financial position either way!


***edit***

And I run fluidyne so my car really doesnt ever get that hot. Just thought I would add that since I didnt already mention it.
 
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