Problem with Shifting

[JpZero]

Ok I’ve been having this problem for sometime now and I can’t seem to get to the bottom of it. It seems that my clutch doesn’t properly disengage while driving. When I push the clutch down and engage my gear it will take me up to 4500 rpm to get the car moving. This happens in every gear. I’m at 4500 to 5500 rpm’s and I’m traveling very slowly. I’ve tried adjusting the master cylinder as in some of the other posts but it didn’t help. There is no sounds of grinding or anything like that, also while driving when I shift gears and add some gas the car will rev like the gear is not engaged. I really have no idea what to make of it. I’m still fairly new to cars so I really would appreciate all the help you can offer.

Thanks!!

 

[Turbotalon25]

Is the slave cylinder leaking? Dose it seem like its slipping or just not gabbing gears? Try bleeding your clutch. I would replace your master cylinder and slave cylinder first. You might want to order a extended slave cylinder rod. You can find them for about $10.00's, Its worth it. If that dosen't work more than likely you need a clutch. Try bleeding it first. Let me know If you need anymore help.

 

[JpZero]

I Have bleed it and it still doesn't work. It seems like its not grabbing the gears because it will rev when I put it into gear then after about 2 or 3 seconds it goes back down. I will try to replace both the master and slave cylinders. Where can i get that extended slave cylinder rod?

 

[Turbotalon25]

You can find a slave cylinder and Master cylinder kit on ebay. It comes with a stock extended slave cylinder. You can find the kit for about $25.00 shipped. You can find the extended slave cylinder rod on ebay too.

Let me know how it go's.

 

[420aNEWB]

according to my haynes repair manual its

engine speed increase with no increase vehicle speed

1 Clutch Plate worn
2 Clutch Plate is oil soaked by leaking rear main seal
3 clutch plate not seated. It may take 30 or 40 normal starts for a new one to seat
4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel
5 weak diaphragm spring
6 Clutch plate overheated. allow to cool.

i don't know you might want to check the clutch plate.

 

[JpZero]

damn I was afraid it might have been the clutch. If its 250 bucks for the Cylinders I might try for that really quick and then go big on the clutch. If its a clutch I wont have the money for that for awhile!

to answer the questions from the manual thought
1) clutch plate can be worn
2) Possible
3) not possible i don't have a new clutch
4) possible
5) I have no idea what this is
6) Not possible it starts from the moment i start the engine

thanks for the quick response you guys this is really helping

 

[Turbotalon25]

I would try the cylinder first because its a cheap buy and it wouldn't hurt to replace them first.
Besides that I had a DSM mechanic tell me that I needed a new clutch and all it was, was a blowen out slave cylinder. I replaced that and bleed my clutch and it ran like new. So don't always think its the clutch that go's bad first. Good luck, and no problem.

P.S the haynes manual sucks get a Chilton manual.

 

[JpZero]

question of OP... where can i get one of those manuals and for how much?

I am already looking at different slaves and masters. All i can find are the slave and master for a turbo eclipse. Are they the same? can I buy the turbo version and it still fit on my 420A?

thanks you guys

 

[Turbotalon25]

Item number: 220262956888 slave cylinder
Item number: 320207836303 <----( I buy from this guy all the time) Master cylinder
Item number: 260287538387 (extended slave cylinder shaft)

Do not use a longer slave cylinder shaft on DSMs.

 

[JpZero]

thank you. I think the second one is for the brakes

I'm Going to get this and see if this works I'll let you guys know thanks for all the help. Also if anyone has anymore suggestions let me know I'm open to anything right now

thanks

 

[Turbotalon25]

sorry about that
Item number: 320295955714 clutch master cylinder (same guy that i was talking about though)

 

[Locke]

The master and slave cylinders are for disengaging the clutch - it is engaged by the pressure plate.

You, sir, have a bad clutch.

 

[bullettdsm]

.

You, sir, have a bad clutch.

Classic signs.

For replacement try the pt cruiser non turbo set-up. It has been known to take a bit of power. Will absolutely hold whatever you can throw at it NA (also a bit of boosted as well)

Or this one has had some really good reviews (believe it or not);

F1 RACING STAGE 1 CLUTCH KIT 95-99 ECLIPSE 2.0L NT GS - (eBay.ca item 170263239593 end time 17-Oct-08 12:58:40 EDT)


MB

 

[JpZero]

Thanks guys

So i went with the F1 racing clutch combo and I just got it in the mail! WOOOO here are some pictures of it. Unfortunately I wont be able to install it soon as I need to acquire more money to do so, but I will defiantly take many pictures and post those up here when I do.

but for now you can be like me and just look at it in awe and wish I WANT THAT TO BE IN MY CAR NOW!

 

[Locke]

If the clutch didn't come with a new TOB, be sure to get one of those as well - from the dealer.

 

[JpZero]

what is a TOB?

 

[Locke]

Throwout Bearing.
aka the release bearing.

 

[JpZero]

ah yes it did come with one i just didn't show it hahahaha

hopefully in the next couple of weeks ill have this baby in so I'll take lots of pictures and throw it up on here for everyone to see

 

[No_Skillz]

I'm not sure what the specifics are for you n/t fellas but for turbo applications:

Never use an extended slave rod nor shim the fulcrum ball,

and

Always use an OEM tob.

Just sayin'... just in case.

 

[JpZero]

I actually dont plan on going turbo with this car I use it as a DD and if i was to turbo a car it would be all out so what my plan is for this car is just to build it up and become familiar with the engine and how to build and then I'm going to go get a junked eclipse gsx and build it from the ground up.

Just my fantasy i guess hahahaha but yeah I'm not shooting very high for this one.

 

[No_Skillz]

What I meant was: "for our cars that are turbocharged from the factory."

In other words I'm not sure you should be using an extended slave rod.

 

[JpZero]

I'm not though I bought a clutch instead of a slave and master cylinder but thanks for the info anyways I'll keep that in mind

Ok so here is the new problem! I decided to go ahead and do the installation of my clutch myself.... not a big deal. Well I am in the process and now I'm stuck. I have the car jacked up and everything is basiclly out all i have to do is remove the drive axle from the trans axle and I can remove the trans and place the clutch in. Only problem is i cant seem to take off the drive axle for the life of me. I've taken my hands a screw driver and a crowbar to this thing and i still cant seem to get it off. My question is has anyone else had this problem? And does anyone have any idea of what else I can do to take this off? I'm desperate to get my car back!

thanks
JP

 

[Locke]

Use a large crescent wrench - Open it's jaws so that it will fit over the axle-shaft, and slip it over the shaft between the transmission and the axle. This will make it resistant to slipping off, letting you apply much more force.

(Bullett gave me that idea)

If you cannot, disconnect the knuckle and drop the transmission with the axle still in place.

 

[JpZero]

sweet! thanks locke I'll try that! Do i have to remove both axels to drop the tranny? It wasnt very specific in the chiliton manual i got.

 

[Locke]

If you can remove the upper control arm on the other side, you can leave the axle in the knuckle, and swing the assembly out far enough to pull the axle from the tranaxle, then drop it as usual.