| 420A Bolt-on Tech Intake, exhaust, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. New Members must limit their 420A tech posts to this forum. |
12-13-2007, 07:44 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: newton, North Carolina
Region: Southeast
Registered: Dec 2007
Posts: 6
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cracked header
runing a stainless header and it has cracked for the 2nd time any one know whats going on with that?
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12-13-2007, 07:57 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: South Bend, Indiana
Region: Midwest
Registered: Mar 2007
Posts: 38
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Normally, aftermarket headers are made of thinner metal. The heat from the motor causes them to crack or break more often..how long have you had it?
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12-14-2007, 11:01 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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N/T DSM Wiseman
From: Elkhart, Indiana
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,913
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Make sure you are using a flex section, that the rest of your exhaust system is properly mounted, and that your motor mounts are in decent repair.
Otherwise, stocker97tsi is correct, tubular headers are inherently weaker than the factory cast manifold.
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-Locke
'99 OZ Eclipse
Last edited by Locke : 12-14-2007 at 02:07 PM.
Reason: is=in
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12-14-2007, 01:35 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Region: Eastern Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwy95eclipse
runing a stainless header and it has cracked for the 2nd time any one know whats going on with that?
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Well, what kind of stainless steel header? Is any part of it heat wrapped? (it will cause it to be more prone to cracking). Is it a 4-1 design or a 4-2-1 design? If its a 4-2-1 design what kind of flange connects the upper a lower parts?
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-Randy: Boosted since 05/05
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12-14-2007, 04:31 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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From: Wilmington, North Carolina
Region: Mid Atlantic
Registered: Dec 2006
Posts: 178
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What brand header are you running? I had a $150 ebay one that cracked in 1 mo. all the way around runner #4. Some good headers last for years, but cast takes the heat better because of its thickness. Now, if the SS header was 1/4" thick tubing it would last longer...especially if I welded it. 
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12-14-2007, 04:42 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: townsville, Michigan
Region: Midwest
Registered: Dec 2002
Posts: 729
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Clean it REALLY well INSIDE and out before you give it to someone to weld. Carbon ruins stainless steel by forming carbides with chromium when it gets hot. Weld it with 308 or 309 filler.
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12-14-2007, 09:23 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: newton, North Carolina
Region: Southeast
Registered: Dec 2007
Posts: 6
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about 1yr
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12-14-2007, 09:27 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: newton, North Carolina
Region: Southeast
Registered: Dec 2007
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRand
Well, what kind of stainless steel header? Is any part of it heat wrapped? (it will cause it to be more prone to cracking). Is it a 4-1 design or a 4-2-1 design? If its a 4-2-1 design what kind of flange connects the upper a lower parts?
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its a 4-1 custom built header the top is wrapped
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12-14-2007, 09:33 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: newton, North Carolina
Region: Southeast
Registered: Dec 2007
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My1GLaser
What brand header are you running? I had a $150 ebay one that cracked in 1 mo. all the way around runner #4. Some good headers last for years, but cast takes the heat better because of its thickness. Now, if the SS header was 1/4" thick tubing it would last longer...especially if I welded it. 
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what would be a good header to run with my setup
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12-16-2007, 01:02 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Columbus, Ohio
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
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It looks like you are talking about a turbo manifold rather than an exhaust header judging by your profile information and pictures. The same reasons cause the cracking though, thin metal, no flex section, poor welds, etc.
An option to fix this is a cast manifold such as the Star style manifolds. You might run into fitment issues with your downpipe when switching manifolds.
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12-16-2007, 05:40 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: townsville, Michigan
Region: Midwest
Registered: Dec 2002
Posts: 729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwy95eclipse
what would be a good header to run with my setup
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Forced Performance: FP DSM Race Manifold
I've built 120 tig welded turbo manifold assemblies for a major OEM that have gone through cyclic heat testing on engine dynos with the failed parts submitted for complete engineering analisys. What the experience taught me is that the mechanical characteristic of the tubing completely change at high tempurature. Steel, even 304 stainless, becomes very weak at the EGT we run. The combination of high heat and carbon in our exhaust, attacks the material and alters it's metalurgical structure. The result is corrosion between the actual grains in the steel and the formation of cracks. Add some stress from a turbo hanging off of it or a downpipe with no flex, and you are certain to have issues.
If you want a tubular manifold, there are only two workable solutions:
Use a "stabilized" alloy such as 321 stainless steel. (huge money)
Use "weld els" like you see commonly in a Ron Shearer manifold ::ShearerFabrications.com - Products::
For the rest of us, there is the Shearer designed FP manifold
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12-16-2007, 08:49 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: newton, North Carolina
Region: Southeast
Registered: Dec 2007
Posts: 6
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ok thanks for all the help
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12-18-2007, 07:02 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Columbia, Missouri
Region: Midwest
Registered: May 2006
Posts: 513
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From looking at your pics, I'd have to say that the heat wrap is causing it to rust (hence the cracking).
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Abe
T3/T4E 50 trim @ 17 PSI
Status: broken trans
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