420a Headgasket change

[way2slowtalon]

Okay I'm beating a dead horse here, but no one has mentioned here or in either manuals what has to be taken off and what can stay for a HG change.

Valve Cover,
Timing Assambly,
Upper Radiator Hose,
Vac Hoses connected to Intake Mani,
Intake Assembly....
Header

What else am I missing? Can I do this with the intake manifold on like the 4g63. Any pics, or thread I missed?

Thanks

 

[dr1665]

What else am I missing? Can I do this with the intake manifold on like the 4g63. Any pics, or thread I missed?

Keep an eye out for the EGR system bolted to the head on the driver's side. You can leave the intake manifold on, but I don't recall if you have to completely remove the EGR system or not.

NOTE:
There are two brackets which support the intake manifold. They bolt to the bottom of two runners and run to the back of the block. Commonly forgotten. Get under the car and just remove them. I wouldn't even bother re-installing them, either.

Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward.

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Okay I'm beating a dead horse here, but no one has mentioned here or in either manuals what has to be taken off and what can stay for a HG change.

Valve Cover,
Timing Assambly,
Upper Radiator Hose,
Vac Hoses connected to Intake Mani,
Intake Assembly....
Header

What else am I missing? Can I do this with the intake manifold on like the 4g63. Any pics, or thread I missed?

Thanks

Since me and Paul just did this couple weeks ago I think I'll chime in a little. Might I add that it's much easier to do with the Intake Mani left on like you wanted to do.

Here are the things you'll need to remove:

Drain Coolant
Headers
Upper radiator
Heater hoses
Fuel lines bolted to the rail
Egr System (mainly the tube that runs from the front of the block to the IM)
Vac Lines (Cruise control if you have that, EGR stuff, etc.)
Like dr1665 said, there are two braces/brackets that support the IM and they are bolted to the back of the block (If you have a creeper you'll be under there for about a good 20 minutes or so)
Crank Pulley, PS/AC and Alternator Belts
Miscellaneous sensors
Coil Pack/Plug Wires
Valve cover
We also removed the PS pump from the bracket which made it a lot easier
Passenger side motor mount
Timing Components (Belt/tensioner/Idler & tensioner pullies replacement is recommended)
We also removed the Cam shafts and Cam gears which made removal and re-installation easier
We somehow had to remove the Crossmember and unbolt the front mount from it in order to lower and raise up the engine when needed (with a floor jack). This was just because one of the bolts for the passenger mount was unable to come out because of the length and the apparent hole in the fender well was not lined up with it. Biggest PITA. Had to raise the engine up a bit.

After replacing the HG make sure that you bolt the Head back on using the correct tightening torque sequences and in a spiral motion. Inner Longer Head bolts first and then the shorter outer Head bolts. Dont remember the torque specs as of right now but you should be able to find it somewhere around here. (New Head bolts are definitely recommended by the way).

Got all timing components, Headset and Head bolts from Partsdinosaur by the way at a good price, I would recommend them to anybody.

I know that you know most of this stuff already because you've done it on the 4g63 but I got a little carried away . Might be missing a few things though.

 

[JWoodley]

I left my intake manifold on (removing the bolts Brian mentioned) and used the intake manifold as a means to help remove the head. I also used a large flathead screwdriver to pry inbetween the block and the head to "break the seal". I'd also like to give a shameless plug to partsdinosaur.com. Great parts, even better prices, and Bruce is a heck of a guy when it comes to customer service. Also, I'd recommend using another factory gasket on the install.

 

[RWKustoms]

Since me and Paul just did this couple weeks ago I think I'll chime in a little. Might I add that it's much easier to do with the Intake Mani left on like you wanted to do.

Here are the things you'll need to remove:

Drain Coolant
Headers
Upper radiator
Heater hoses
Fuel lines bolted to the rail
Egr System (mainly the tube that runs from the front of the block to the IM)
Vac Lines (Cruise control if you have that, EGR stuff, etc.)
Like dr1665 said, there are two braces/brackets that support the IM and they are bolted to the back of the block (If you have a creeper you'll be under there for about a good 20 minutes or so)
Crank Pulley, PS/AC and Alternator Belts
Miscellaneous sensors
Coil Pack/Plug Wires
Valve cover
We also removed the PS pump from the bracket which made it a lot easier
Passenger side motor mount
Timing Components (Belt/tensioner/Idler & tensioner pullies replacement is recommended)
We also removed the Cam shafts and Cam gears which made removal and re-installation easier
We somehow had to remove the Crossmember and unbolt the front mount from it in order to lower and raise up the engine when needed (with a floor jack). This was just because one of the bolts for the passenger mount was unable to come out because of the length and the apparent hole in the fender well was not lined up with it. Biggest PITA. Had to raise the engine up a bit.

After replacing the HG make sure that you bolt the Head back on using the correct tightening torque sequences and in a spiral motion. Inner Longer Head bolts first and then the shorter outer Head bolts. Dont remember the torque specs as of right now but you should be able to find it somewhere around here. (New Head bolts are definitely recommended by the way).

Got all timing components, Headset and Head bolts from Partsdinosaur by the way at a good price, I would recommend them to anybody.

I know that you know most of this stuff already because you've done it on the 4g63 but I got a little carried away . Might be missing a few things though.

Wow! Holy detailed post buddy. Great info though, seems like it was a great learning experience working with Paul.