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| 420A Bolt-on Tech: Intake, exhaust, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. New Members must limit their 420A tech posts to this forum. |
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01-16-2005, 05:23 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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N/T DSM Wiseman

From: Humble, Texas
Registered: Dec 2004
Reputation:
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oil problem
alright i've had an oil leak for awhile now...i remember one time awhile back, before i realized the leak, i drove the car (overheated) for about 2 miles to get home, i had the heater all the way up and when possible i would rev up alittle to get as much heat off of the engine as possible anyways, i dunno how long after i realized the leak, and a few weeks ago i located where it was, looked like it had something to do with the little cover over the cam for the exhaust valves, i was just wondering if i could unplug the position sensor, and remove that little plate without taking off the valve cover.. thanks in advance
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01-16-2005, 08:15 PM
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N/T DSM Wiseman

From: Humble, Texas
Registered: Dec 2004
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Neither am i..all i know is when i would do it if my car ever started to get alittle hot, it would bring it back down
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01-17-2005, 09:48 AM
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Proven Member

From: New Orleans, Louisiana
Registered: Oct 2004
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Either the water pump is going bad or the thermostat is sticking. Either way reving it usually brings down the tempature by running the pump faster or freeing the thermostat. Usually happens after running at highway speed for a while then comming to a stop. You are no longer getting the cool air over everything and the pump is running slower. I don't know how its connected to an oil leak though unless you ran the car seriously low on oil?? In that case you can kiss your motor goodbye soon.
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01-17-2005, 10:36 AM
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Proven Member

Car: 2005 Mazda RX-8
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Registered: Mar 2004
Reputation:
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The GM trucks I had for company vehicles would cool down when you revved the motor at idle.
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01-17-2005, 11:34 AM
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N/T DSM Wiseman

From: Humble, Texas
Registered: Dec 2004
Reputation:
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well the overheating was because i didn't have coolant...so i filled that up, and it hasn't done it since..but my original question was if i can take the little plate with the cam position sensor off of the car with out removing the valve cover? It seems like that is where the oil is coming from
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01-17-2005, 12:28 PM
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N/T DSM Wiseman

From: Humble, Texas
Registered: Dec 2004
Reputation:
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Yeah I know i need to replace that, i've been saving, i'm trying to wait though b/c i need to replace my valve seals too, and it's about time for a new timing belt and i've heard i need to replace all of the pulleys when replacing the timing belt. so i'm trying to do it all at once...my cars getting problems...it's retarded..lately when starting my car, if the car is cold, and it's in neutral w/ the clutch out...there's a grinding noise coming from the right side of the tranny(when looking from front of car) and when i put the clutch in..the noise goes away, and when the car is warm..no more noise..there are also little yellow particles all over..i'll try to get a pic on here
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01-18-2005, 04:52 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Highland, Michigan
Registered: Nov 2002
Reputation:
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well, its only 8 8mm and 4 10mm bolts to get the valve cover off. It should take you about 20 mins TOPS. Valve seals, your going to have to take the head off. That will make you have to replace the timing belt.
The 420a does not like the cold. As for that grinding noice, I've noticed it in my car. It sounds like its comming from the bell housing, but its hard to tell. I'm hoping its not my tranny going, cause that would suck. I'm thinking it was my main bearing grinding, cause my crank had a nice groove in it. I guess I'll find out this year if it is the trans
As for replacing the pulleys, the idle pully might need replacing. Thats a common one for going bad. Just check and see what pulleys aren't running smooth when the belts are off.
____________________________
-John retired DSM'r. RIP ESI-T Targa
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