Josh97eclipse
10+ Year Contributor
- 261
- 0
- Feb 14, 2011
-
N. Ridgeville,
Ohio
What were your af ratios in boost?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
yea it looks like it got hot.. and possibly some Det.. No good. IMO, why dont you have a machine shop look at it.. I know you already ordered the stuff (newb move), but id hate to see you get it all back together and stil not be right because the tol's are not correct.. Any idea on ring gaps? How do the rod bearings look?
. goood luck. You ordered from a piss poor company. I hope you get your bearings, it will be a miracle if you do.. (Do a search on them and see their rep). I hope they have turned around their sad service.. but im not holding my breath, at least you didn't order from Howell
.. goood luck. You ordered from a piss poor company. I hope you get your bearings, it will be a miracle if you do.. (Do a search on them and see their rep). I hope they have turned around their sad service.. but im not holding my breath, at least you didn't order from Howell
.
Any way, should do the trick.. if your crank hasn't suffered. How did the bearings look that you took off? How did the crnak look, did you Mic it to make sure its still in-round? This will determine how long your builds going to last..
P series wasn't the best choice, you really should have gone with HX for boost.. But that would require you actually doing machine work.. The next hurdle is oil control. you could have the best bearing in the world, but due to lack of oil control, they will fail that's the real root cause of bearing failure. what do you have for oil control??
For the record, budget builds are for proving points. like, i spent a 1000$ on a turbo and made a 12 sec pass. all they care about is proving they can spend 1000$ and get a fast time.. no one said anything about the motor lasting.. so what are you trying to prove?
Its funny (in a sad way) because, while you "budget" build yours, blow up again (because unfortunately you probably will) b.c you didn't spend money, or spend enough in the right areas ( like toleranceing and verifying your crank) , youll spend 2X more to get you back to where you were before you blew.. not much of a budget. Thats why they say:
Build it right the 1st time or build it 2x.. and Cheap.Fat.Reliable.. Pick 2...
Hope it works for you, but he odds are kinda stacked..sorry..you may get lucky, but luck runs out. I have a feeling (based on experience) that it will run for about 3K before you spin a bearing assuming your crank is in decent condition, but with all the Detonation.. I doubt it.. I also suspect your bearing were pretty tore up.. post a pic up, that will help.\\GL!
I ordered arp turbo manifold studs and from ci and got them in 3 days

I wanna rebuild another 420a motor! But I wana build the crap out of it but I dont have that cash.