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My first actual project build.

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codywv

10+ Year Contributor
84
0
Apr 5, 2012
parkersburg, West Virginia
Hello, I am another guy that fell in love with the DSM world and I bought my first turbo car.

All i was told about it was that it was going to be setup as a "race car" and battery was relocated in the hatch, fully adjustable suspension, full 3"exhaust, racing steering wheel, and 17' wheels. (brand new tires)

95 eclipse gsx 95k miles.
I bought it from a guy hard on money and all he told me is that someone told him that his engine was "crank walked". Anyways.. i bought it for $600 and hauled it back home. I arrived home, started it up... it ran rough... but still was running. I found that the hose for the BOV was pushing the MAF sensor to where it was slightly disconnected. and the BOV that was on it had blown the threading out.

So i replaced the BOV with a Greddy BOV (bought off a friend for $40). and just turned the MAF 180 degrees. It starts right up and runs perfect... :thumb:

A week later after driving it, i was going about 135mph for my first test to push it some and what i think happened... was a rod knocking very loud. I am not sure what i have done, but i am new to this and have researched videos of rods knocking and it sounds like that.

Can anyone give me a rundown of what i should do now??? i have recently bought a 6bolt engine for what i wanted to build on to later... what should i do with the 2g engine??? and where should i begin with the 6bolt??? Thank you. :cool:
 
I researched "crank walk" enough to know that it is NOT crankwalked... but i'm sure there is something wrong now since it is knocking loud and i cant drive it any faster then like 20mph now...
 
palm to face. you need to research crank walk a bit. your gonna need a complete rebuild.

You need to rethink what you think crankwalk is, and also think before you post.

OP would you happen to have a video of the rod knock?
 
I got a video as soon as i pulled over in a gas station... but im guessing it didn't save to my phone. i could hear it the loudest on the firewall side of the motor. it's a AWD so i believe the engine is turned sideways?? i think?
 
Crank walk can cause rod bearing failure since the lateral movement of the crank puts the rods at an angle. That tightens the bearing clearance and can cause them to wear out prematurely. A spun rod bearing can very well be caused by crank walk. If that's the case, I would source an entirely new engine to start with. There are just too many variable with crank walk to take any chances building an engine that already walked once.

Also, all of the engines in our cars are sideways regardless of AWD or FWD. They are not "longitudinally" mounted like most Domestic vehicles that people are used to seeing. So yes, it is sideways.
 
Hmmm, very well put. Thank you for the advice and the quick lesson. :)

with the 6 bolt swap im wanting to do... should i keep the whole eninge 1g? what parts from the 2g engine should i use with the 1g that are interchangeable?
 
You can put the 2g head on the 6-bolt bottom end with just a simple bore of the head bolt holes. But other than that you want to use the entire 1g 6-bolt engine. But be careful, not all 1g's came with 6-bolt engines.

I would also suggest looking into a 4g64 swap. It's basically the same engine as the 7-bolt 4g63, except it's a 2.4 stroker. It takes a small bit of work, there are some modifications that must be done. But it other than that everything bolts up and it drops right into your engine bay. It will give you much more low end torque and you'll spool the turbo much faster than the guys with 2.0L engines.
.
 

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is swapping the 2g head worth the trouble? Not sure what the perks are for doing it.

This is a pic i found with original motor that last owner sent to me. it looks the same atm other then new BOV.

I was told to upgrade my fuel system first above all things... either way.. a walbro 255 is on its way... but i was just wondering.. what size injectors should i get? im trying to get at least 400awhp soon... and i will be running on 91-93 octane pretty much all the time... and will get a FMIC soon if i sell my 420a talon.
 

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Rebuild.... But for 600 cant beat that.

Not too sure why you pushed a car you aren't familiar with so hard so soon... but to each their own
 
ok, i will start this weekend... i will let you guys know how well it does... im not adding all the mods quite yet.. just the difficult ones that will make it easier while engine is out.

Also, if anyone happens to find a dsmlink at a cheap price just message me?? thanks

This is the video i just took before i start tearing out the motor this weekend... :cry:

it wont let me upload it for some reason... here is a link to it though...


May 1, 2012 7:46pm | Facebook
 
My valve cover on new engine has a small crack in near where the plugs go... is there a way to fix that pretty easily?
 
will my valve cover from my 2g work?

Cleaned up the engine... going to paint block black... possibly get a white valve cover.
 

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I noticed it when I was cleaning the cover.... sliced my finger :(

thinking of getting a white intake manifold for $45... and a powder coated valve cover for $75... is that paying too much???
 
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