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Oh no!! Anyone had this??

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falcon8r

10+ Year Contributor
205
0
Sep 15, 2009
kalispell, Montana
I just got the car running good and it pulls very good. Well I heard a noise and this!! I did the belt less than a year ago when the waterpump went haywire. It is a NAPA belt . last belt I did was a NAPA on it and that's why I didn't go OEM like it think I should at the time but don't as my parts house is way nice to me. Tres...
 

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it's a bunch of people that are oem NUTZ but they have a good reason napa parts are said to meet or exceed the quality of the stock belt, however that's not always true so you've found out the hard way, buy oem or gates belt
 
go kevlar next heh, looks like something got loose, so the car hasnt been run on that belt till now? or have you had it running, and just all of a suddent this happened?
 
Holy###, get a goodyear gatorback belt. I've had gates, oem mitsu, topline and the goodyear gatorback belt by far looks better in quality. As far as the problem, I 'm not sure. I had a similar experience except not as bad, the oil pan gasket was causing it.:ohdamn:
 
wow at least you caught it in time! For me when that happened it was the tensioner arm being worn from use causing the tensioner pulley to be angled slightly. This made the belt slip towards the inside of the engine and wear on that side of the belt. This looks to be more of an incorrect oil pan bolt thing though.
 
Holy###, get a goodyear gatorback belt. I've had gates, oem mitsu, topline and the goodyear gatorback belt by far looks better in quality. As far as the problem, I 'm not sure. I had a similar experience except not as bad, the oil pan gasket was causing it.:ohdamn:

I on the other hand COMPLETELY do not agree. The only belt I have had break was a boo boo back. The one I took off my 93 tsi had approx 25k on it and the belt was dry rotting and cracking. I have never had an issue with an "oem" or conti tech, strong,hks, or gates. I have never heard of top line so idk about that. The gator back I broke lasted 1200 miles. Perhaps I just got a couple bad apple's it happens every now and then. Gates makes belts that cost almost a couple Franklins . To compare the quality of a thirty dollar belt to one that costs six times more. I am not sold on that idea.... Good Year makes one belt gator back. Gates makes an array from cheap to master blaster. As for the gasket rubbing the belt... I have never run into that issue either. The extra steps you take to put everything back exactly as it should may take a little longer, But the time lost is gained back ten fold in the end because you only pull it apart one time and put it back together one time. Preparation is half the battle ladies and gents.
 
That actually looks to be from an incorrect oil pan bolt (being too long) and biting right into the center of the belt.

I'm going to have to agree with this. I'm guessing it was the oil pan bolt right below the crank pulley. I think theres another one that can be too long and cause this but that is usually the main culprit. It was rubbing way too long + a Non OEM belt which more than likely caused this. This had happened to me and luckily enough I caught it early. Sorry for the bent valves man.

:sosad:
 
I bought a '92 Talon N/T for $200 a while back with bent valves caused by a belt that did the EXACT same thing as this one. There was a receipt in the glove box from a local shop where the previous owner had a new oil pan installed two weeks prior to the belt breaking, apparently because the old pan rusted out. Coincidence?
 
Yeah I agree with the oil pan bolt theory. If not that, something is rubbing on it. Also, spend the extra money for a gates or a contitech. Those Gatorbacks are junk, they're truly a budjet belt. Fine for your average serpentine belt, but not for something as crucial as your timing belt. I use a Gates Racing belt. It cost's a fortune, but that's no place to take chances. Just make sure it's installed right this time, and that you don't have any crappy or misaligned tensioners or idlers.
 
Well I took it all apart last night and none of the oil pan bolts are sticking out. In fact the belt line up on all the pulleys is still on. I am VERY lucky the timing was still on. The NAPA belt is a Gates 167 belt. It is the high nitrile premium belt, next one up is the kevlar. That's what goes on next. This engine has been together for 8 years and was put together by me. I do mess up here and there on fixes but I cant see an thing wrong. Looks like the top of the belt delaminated. I couldnt slip the belt off without loosening the tensioner pulley. Might be time for a cam regrind too, 264/272 ish... Tres....
 
S**t happens. It's just lucky the belt didn't slip. I guess that proves it's a good belt. I knew that wasn't the belt's fault, they don't just peel apart like that for no good reason. It's how they perform when they get torn all to hell like that that separates the Gates'es from the Gatorbacks'es. :thumb:
 
My buddy has over 20,000 miles on a goodyear gatorback belt, still looks new 9/10 belt failures is installer error peroid whether you like it or not. The only gates I would buy is the blue one. Contitech sucks ass, I had one and about 2,000 miles in, it got as hard as plastic. Junk. IMO.
 
That actually looks to be from an incorrect oil pan bolt (being too long) and biting right into the center of the belt.

This is what I'm putting my money on. I had my oil pan bolts in the wrong place for 60miles and it drew a nice line on my timing belt. Luckily it was only cosmetic damage. In time, it would have looked like yours.
 
It is not the oil pan bolts. This engine has been together for 8 years, put together by me . I have been in the automotive repair for over 25 years and am ASE accreditied. I ran real racing 4 bangers (Cosworth BDA's and YBM's) for years. I don't know why this belt did this. All of the pullys are good, waterpump is new last Feb. as well as all the bearings in the pulleys serviced. There is about 4,000 miles on that belt. Tres....
 
It is not the oil pan bolts. This engine has been together for 8 years, put together by me . I have been in the automotive repair for over 25 years and am ASE accreditied. I ran real racing 4 bangers (Cosworth BDA's and YBM's) for years. I don't know why this belt did this. All of the pullys are good, waterpump is new last Feb. as well as all the bearings in the pulleys serviced. There is about 4,000 miles on that belt. Tres....

Okay so what about the tensioner? Is there a bolt/acrorn (Yes acorn) in the timing cover? The lower one, not the top one.
Also, we don't need your credentials, because we aren't trying to call you an idiot. We're just helping you out, okay?
 
Okay so what about the tensioner? Is there a bolt/acrorn (Yes acorn) in the timing cover? The lower one, not the top one.
Also, we don't need your credentials, because we aren't trying to call you an idiot. We're just helping you out, okay?

I took a chill pill and looked at everything. I looked at all the debris that fell out and all of it was was belt stuff. I looked over the sprokets and the pulleys. I think I replaced all that not too long ago. It looks new. There is no balance shaft. I found that the belt top must have been gone for awhile. The car always had a buzzy belt on this last install. I knew I did the tensioner correct as I am paranoid of the consequences. The belt would not come off by hand at all. Check out the oil residue on the pulleys. The top was missing for some time. The cams are out to try some Delta's and a Gates blue. Here is the cover just as I took it off on Sat. Thanks for the input . Tres...
 

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Did you replace the tensioner arm? I had a bad wobble from a bad tensioner arm, the belt occasionaly rubbed against something and it eat the side off.
 
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