Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzydoodle
Thank you!! See that was not so hard, too bad everyone who has completed it can't just answer questions when people ask them.
Were you ever able to peek at yours?
They re-assembling of the block would not concern me, I would not mind at least, I would just rather the thing bolt to the trans like it is suppose to, everything I have read would lead me to believe it is straight bolt together. To me that means EXACTLY the same as the 2.0, so if indeed I had to tear it down and transfer parts it would not kill me.
I realize the 95+ head has the sensor (is it not on one of the gears?), but with the 95 head, or really any head for that matter, is anything needed to make it properly work with the different block, like in the link already posted he used a 1g 7 bolt head, but had to modify the wire to make it run correctly.
I have an extra 95 head, so ideally I would like to just use that.
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The head just bolted on, no problems, no modification. The 2G ARP or stock head studs fit the block and head. And all of the sensors just plug in. RRE has a "how to" on their site about how to make a 97-99 head or 1G head work on a 95-99 car, but it looks like a pain in the ass. I would just have a good 3 or 5 angle valve job done, port and polish, and gasket match to whatever manifold you want to use.
I've been screwing with DSMs for 10 years, Bolt on installation is priceless to me anymore lol.
Oh, and your single bolt that's off is typical. Mine had the lowest bolt on the front side of the engine that didn't line up. Looks like yours is the same. The way I looked at it was it's only one and it's right next to the engine mount. Could be worse I guess.
I was going to drill the threads out of the engine side and put a bolt in backwards by drilling into the bell housing and tapping it. But the housing isn't really thick enough to support a big bolt if it were to see any real lateral force.