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Originally Posted by 98spydert
And I don't know if they're worth while or not, or if you can even get them anymore but a Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowel (MBCAD) Kit from Buscher
And I left the balance shafts out
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This is only for ARP main studs. Mach V sell them.
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The only additional work you'd need is the 5 extra holes on the deck plugged with freeze plugs. RRE used to suggest laying pieces of aluminum over them and using RTV as a seal.
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Posted here.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151896425-post100.html
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When combining the head and block you'll need an appropriate head gasket. I just got a 4G63 Cometic with a 87mm bore. And you'll need a 4G64 factory timing belt. The factory 4G63 cam gears sit funny but work. The timing marks line up wrong so can either compensate for this and use them anyways or switch to adjustable or the factory 4G64 cam gears.
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You don't have to use a 64 timing belt when the head and block are surfaced.
Yes the 63 gears can work when set half a tooth off. Shown here
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151907578-post106.html.
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Oil pressure is higher than stock because of the balance shafts being eliminated and the absence of oil squirters in the 64 block. I would suggest feeding your turbo with oil from the head which has considerably less pressure than the oil filter housing. I've read of people having issues with oil pressure either blowing past their turbo seals or causing CHRAs to wear excessively. Might as well just feed it from the head and use the appropriate restrictor if you're running a BB turbo.
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The stock turbo has a built in restrictor if you're using a stock turbocharger.
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Originally Posted by 98spydert
He's thinking about the rate of acceleration of the piston as it arrives and leaves TDC or BDC. And that rate is directly related to rod:stroke ratio.
The destroked 4G64 2.1L long rod achieves the best rod to stroke ratio which is why it revs so high safely. After that, the factory stroked 4G63 is second best, and factory stroked 4G64 is third. BUT, just because it's in 3rd place of the 3 doesn't mean it's bad at all. The 4G64 will rev efficiently AND safely to the factory red line or a little further. After 8k the VE is so bad, there's no point in reving higher anyways.
So yes, if you want to rev to 9 or 10k, stay away from the the 64. You won't make any decent power vs the other combination and the acceleration rates are dangerous and you'll end up with oval rod ends at best.
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There isn't a best rod to stroke ratio only thing that will limit VE is the head and intake manifold. Discussed in depth here
2.6 Stroker?? .