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My solution for the FIAV

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turboglenn

15+ Year Contributor
6,375
111
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
AS it states... This is a modded lower portion of a TB from a 1g that i just thought i'd see how it works... THere's also a picture of the top of this TB... I middes the top off all the way into the upper mounting holes to get rid of the vacume lines. Then i started building layer after layer of aluminum with the TIG and have it almost where i want it so that i can mill it flat and engrave something in it.

I think this will look nice and clean when done and i'm shopping the mods to the FIAV (both inside and out...there's some stuff you cna't see) buti'm hoping it gives me a perfect functioning idle control without the PITA of a wax pellet and disconnected coolant lines

Share your thoughts!!!

EDIT: the FIAV block looks nasty in that pic, but it's actually reflection from the bandsaw cut marks when i made the slug i welded into the hole. Looks better in person
 

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I did the same thing to my throttle body. I still have to clean it up more, but I'm not sure how good it will look on the intake manifold when it's all done.

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Congrats!

I took the easy route and just filled it in with silicone, and dealt with the cold start issue.
 
AS it states... This is a modded lower portion of a TB from a 1g that i just thought i'd see how it works... THere's also a picture of the top of this TB... I middes the top off all the way into the upper mounting holes to get rid of the vacume lines. Then i started building layer after layer of aluminum with the TIG and have it almost where i want it so that i can mill it flat and engrave something in it.

I think this will look nice and clean when done and i'm shopping the mods to the FIAV (both inside and out...there's some stuff you cna't see) buti'm hoping it gives me a perfect functioning idle control without the PITA of a wax pellet and disconnected coolant lines

Share your thoughts!!!

EDIT: the FIAV block looks nasty in that pic, but it's actually reflection from the bandsaw cut marks when i made the slug i welded into the hole. Looks better in person


Looks good turboglenn
 
Not to hijack this or anything, I just took off the lower portion, stuck a screwdriver into it and popped out the freeze plug. The FIAV is nothing more than a valve on a bi-metal spring (thermostat like), and an adjustable valve seat. Just open it up, take some needle nose pliers and screwed in the valve seat until it bottomed out. Now the valve will ALWAYS be closed as if the car is fully warmed up. Same result without welding or anything. Screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
 
I made five of them . Do I get a prize? LOL no it looks good guys, a powdercoat would look nice when your all done. Than it will look good on the manifold.
 
turbosax...can we get away with a "great minds think alike" or do DSM;ers fall into some other realm of mentality? :LOL

Sam@RRE.... I didn't even think about popping out the freeze plug. It started with me being bored and asking myself "I wonder if i can just cut this big chunk off with my bandsaw and weld over it to make it look cleaner/simpler but still have the ISC"

So i did.. I was bored and came up with something that i like.. I don't fully understand the pellet and what not so i chose to just weld up the passages inside and out.

The TB it's self actuyally started about 7 years ago when i got my mill and just wanted to trim the top off and trace where the vacum lines went and how they managed to see only boost or only Vac..then later (meaning a week ago) and being armed with tigging skills and random boredom i filled it in to go with my new lower idle assembly thingy

I also got rid of the BISS and plugged all it's ports, then I drilled into the idle control passages from the coolant line areas in the lower half, that way I can have a small bleeder valve hooked to it (like a getto boost controller) and that will adjust the idle Itl's threaded 1/8NPT so i can always just plug it back up if it's not what i want.... With all my pneumatic stuff i can even make it look nice and be remote mount with a one way valve that's high quality : )

I hope it works as good as it sounds in theory.... I've got one more bug to work out on my fresh build and that's pulling the water tube to fix a pin-hole in it and i think i'm going to try the home brew TB at the same time

Anyone have a link to the TB shaft seals that are a direct fit? (not O rings)
 
It takes 5 minutes once you have the TB out, its an internet myth, the whole "wax pellet thing" there arent any in there, trust me. Dont believe everything you read on forums. If anyone is interested in a more in-depth how to, pm me.
 
I wondered why i've NEVER found this wax pellet LOL

anyway, PM'ed you... I wasn't coming on here saying myway was the best or anything, just showing what i did.. I like it because i got rid of a big ugly chunk of un-used TB attachments, but would like to know more about how this whole thing works.... personally though, i think i'd rather cut that ugly tunnel and tubes off instad of justmodding it to not work...just my feelings, i like things to look bare bones and simple, the coolant lines hangin there not hooked up looks kinda ghetto IMO which jsut added to me wanting to cut it apart instead of modding it. I've cut feeler guages up for years inserting them between the 2 halves, only blocking off the areas effected by the FIAV and that's worked nice, but again, the look bothers me..
 
I got tired of the look myself. Once my car became a toy and not a dd, I removed both fiav and isc and replaced it with a homemade, .125" thick blockoff plate. I also pulled all the vac port tubes, tapped the holes, and plugged them with 1/4-20 stainless set screws. Works great if you are not trying to crank the car in sub 50* weather. Colder days, cold startup was about the same as owning an older dodge truck with an inoperative choke. Once up to operating temp,the idle was dead steady to what I set it at with the biss and stayed rock solid. Its going through a full build currently but the new combo is sporting a jmf smim and a 96-03 75mm tb(accufab) so again I will be running neither fiav or isc. This time around dsmlink will make it easier.
 
Yea, DSMlink would help i'm sure.. I have a full on stand alone so i can tune around most things. My car has always been a littl tought to start in cold weather either way though

My current setup is like what you're were running kind of, the vacum line holes area ll tapped and fitted with set screws, there's feeler guage pices cut up and fitted to block the fiav circuits, and although it works i still just want it to look cleaner...that's why i'm going to try the TB that i milled down and built up with the TIG.

First i have to solve a high oil pressure issue, then i'll swap it out
 
I dont need the fiav, I do still have the iac valve though. The car runs fine.
 
My idle is terrible.I just replaced the isc and it didnt really help.I was thinking of removing the fiav, but I live in upstate ny.Today it was 15.Last weekend I went snowboarding and it was -5.If I take out the isc, is it not going to start in the winter?This is a dd so I need "reliability", but I HATE my idle.
 
If I take out the isc, is it not going to start in the winter?
My FIAV is blocked off along with the ISC. Other than the start issues (nurse the throttle to keep it alive and let it warm up), the car is fine. No surge, no major issues.
 
don't even worry in upstate NY.. Here in NE we have regular weeks on end where the temp is average of 0* with windchills in the negative teens. And although my car may take 2-3 attempts to start, it always does in the end. Let it idle till a bit warm (something you should do anyway) and then just go.

They really don't make it that bad to eliminate the FIAV.
 
Tools needed:
Screwdrivers, Phillips and Flat
Hammer (my favorite tool)
Socket size of freeze plug
Needle Nose pliers
Vise Grips (to help break loose those stubborn screws that hold on the lower portion of the TB)

Parts:
TB Gasket
TB Elbow Gasket

This is a picture of the Idle control section of the throttle body removed. What you have to do is remove the freeze plug by means of big flat screwdriver, exposing the valve seat.
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The FIAV works off the spring, when cold the spring contracts, pulling the plunger away from the seat, allowing air to go from one side of the the TB's butterfly to the manifold side, thus raising idle. When the coolant running through it warms up, it heats up the spring, expanding it, until the plunger butts up against the seat, closing up the airway, bringing your idle back down. From the factory these seats are set at a certain point where they figure that the bi-metal spring will expand enough to close the plunger against the seat, but over the course 10,000 years, they don't anymore. So you can go through the headache of finding that sweet spot again or...tada! turn it in all the way.
Here is a picture of the freeze plug removed.
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Rotate the seat clockwise using needle nose pliers until it stops, thus closing the valve forever. Put the freeze plug back in via hammer and socket with a little RTV just for kicks, and viola! Free FIAV mod, or you can tackle the task of finding that sweet spot.

And some of yall thought RRE was dead, ha! we still have a few more secrets up our sleeves for these cars, only in due time we will share em. This will get posted int he Tech section for all to learn and not have to search forever.
 
My FIAV is blocked off along with the ISC. Other than the start issues (nurse the throttle to keep it alive and let it warm up), the car is fine. No surge, no major issues.

I did the same thing. As soon as I can get into my friends heated garage I have to adjust the TPS.
 
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