Quote:
Originally Posted by Artago
What do you mean trial and error? I have my BISS set right now and I have the following:
1. Cold idle around 700-800
2. Hot idle 800-1100
3. Car stalls when I pull it out of gear at higher RPM (like 3000+ RPM)
4. The RPMS drop (like 200-500 RPM) and stall 50% of the time when pressing clutch (worse when cold)
Should I back the BISS out a bit?
Did you disconnect the ISC (IAC) when doing this?
Thanks Romeen,
Tom
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I just re-read my post and realized I wasn't very clear on it. I was having issues with increased idle speed after the motor had warmed up. Turns out my throttle cable was too tight. There is a method for adjusting it to give the most possible slack when the throttle is closed. But I prefer having as little slack or free play in the cable as possible while still allowing the throttle plate to remain closed when warm. So everyday I drove the car I would pay attention to the idle speed when I was stopped at lights and when I got home I would adjust the cable as needed and then the BISS to get the idle where I wanted it. It seems like after an adjustment the idle would move around a bit but settle down and remain steady after a while. Maybe the ECU was adjusting to the new settings (speculation)?
Like I said, I'm sure the recommended way is a better, easier way of doing it. But I didn't have the scan tool and this way did end up working for me.
I'm not sure about the stalling but it might be related to the TPS. When I swapped to a 1G TB I used the RRE method to adjust it and it works great. The logger shows 0% throttle position at idle and 97% at WOT. Just something to consider.
Here is a post that I found helpful:
TPS reading at idle