Blown Engine

[mccurdy]

So yeah...

Compression test shows cylinder 3 and 4 are about 35 psi lower than 1 and 2, meaning either bad rings, cylinder walls, or most likely, blown HG. And yes, I saw some white smoke previously on start up. SO!

Curious if I should just pay a reputable shop (FFtec or Ditos) to do the work on my headgasket, do it myself in my backyard, or just drop a 6bolt in it.

What do you guys think?

If i take it to a shop, whats the cost usually for them to replace either the HG or rings (cylinder wall would need new block im sure as honing won't fix jack)???

If i do it myself, what tools would I need, and how hard of a job can i expect to follow?? Time frame to completion?

If I drop a 6bolt in it, what complications will i foresee? Is it more labor entensive than a head job? Will a 6bolt fit in perfectly for my 97GST? What issues might i run into, as well as time frame it would take to complete. Also, how much a cherry picker costs as well as needed tools for the job.

Holler at me guys, McCurdy could use some help.

If i choose to do this job myself, would anyone with some experience be willing to drink a case or two of beer with me and help me out?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I read some of your posts before this was confirmed. I had a hunch it was blown, but didn't want to reply because I was not too sure based on the symptoms you were giving us.

A job like that requires more than just packs of beer unless you got some really good DSMers as friends, hell even if they were friends I would still offer some kind of monetary reimbursement for the extensive amount of work.

If you get it done at a shop at least you know it will be done right. Expect close to $1k at least IMO. I of course would get done more stuff at the same time if its going to be torn apart.

If your rebuilding might as well go big. 6bolt and the works. Dont know if you are trying to keep it smog legal without paying for a hookup. I know with a 6bolt there will be a CEL unless you have dsmlink. And since your car is not a 95 you might not pass the OBDII readiness even with link if certain checks are disabled. My friend has a 95 with 6 bolt and link, obviously passed, no need to check obdii readiness because 95s are exempt, and he had a bunch of the checks unchecked to prevent any CEL. he sure as hell would've failed that part of the best if required like 96+ cars have to do. But some people might know otherwise. good luck

 

[mccurdy]

so is a 6bolt swap a bad idea?

Im confused on what I should do at this point.

fftec charges 1450 for a 6bolt swap. Add 1,100 for adding any parts to it.

 

[redyute1]

well its kinda different around here now i work at a shop so here goes,a head job would run you at least $1500.00 considering the head has to go to the machine shop for testing and getting the valve seals replaced also having the the valve seats machined thats thats doing it the right way, looking at about 4 to 6 days down time.Now for rebuild most shops well non dsm shops that is will not rebuild a motor, they would just change it out,as for me i would talk to a customer and offer a rebuild if i see he is a dsm lover, i have done 2 n/t rebuilds for customers and one turbo rebuild thats currently in my car, but like i said i believe in rebuilding the motor than just throwing in a used one from another car.

 

[mccurdy]

well im buying another car as a daily driver regardless, so i guess ill have time to consider a good engine rebuild.

or i could be an ass and sell it as is and keep my mouth shut. But karma is a mofo

 

[T9S1i]

if you can pull the head yourself, a head rebuild and pressure check/resurface is like only $200 or so. Put in some arp head studs or the new L19's or something and a mitsu MLS and you will probably be good to go. You can find any mechanic to pull the head. FFTEC would be the best bet because they will get it 100% right the first time, but its not that difficult of a job.

If you want to pull the head yourself my friends dad owns a machine shop and has done all my motor work. PM me and i'll see if i can get you a plug price.

 

[FFTec - jerry]

so is a 6bolt swap a bad idea?

Im confused on what I should do at this point.

fftec charges 1450 for a 6bolt swap. Add 1,100 for adding any parts to it.

Hey guys,

The quote I gave you was just for labor, not including parts or outsourced work from the machine shops. If you wanted a formal quote, you should come by and talk to Sean about it. In the mean time, I'd try not to drive on the car if you already know there's a blown head gasket.

Jerry

 

[freeman 188]

just had my motor rebuilt by myself ,took about 3 days from the time I pulled it and reassembled it ,as for money wise it costed 350 for machine work and just about 800 for parts ,so you are looking at alot of money ,not counting if you have to get the head done,and pay someone .

 

[mccurdy]

Thanks Jerry.

So far the dealership did the leakdown test and said they found 3 compression leaks. 1 at the oil plug, 1 at the axel seal? (i forget exactly where he said) and the 3rd was the valve cover gasket.

Curious though, could these 3 leaks cause only 2 cylinders to drop 40psi in compression? Seems fishy to me.

Anyway, im going to buy a commuter car tomorrow for going to and from work. If its something really expensive, I might just block it up and rebuild the engine in my backyard driveway. Thinking of getting a car tent and even doing the $50 paint job while im at it!

I'll let you guys know what the dealer says, but in the meantime, do you think those 3 leaks would only affect 2 cylinders and not 4? If so, whats your logic!

Thanks!

 

[Savage Talon]

A leakdown test tells you where & what percent you are loosing compression. It is either past the rings or past the valves. It sounds like it's past the rings to me.

 

[mccurdy]

i honestly was thinking a combination of rings and headgasket as bad as that sounds. I say this b/c i have symptoms from both.

rings because my dipstick sprayed oil all over the place.
HG because my oil doesn't look just right and i had a puff of white smoke outta my tailpipe after i did the compression test.

 

[FFTec - jerry]

I would try to get a second opinion about the car's condition. Dealerships are not always known to have the best techs around. But you can always do your own diagnosing... I'd drain the oil and see if there's signs of gas and or coolant in there. Also check your coolant, if there's black specs in there from the oil, or contamination in the oil, then you can pretty much assume the head gasket and or rings have gone to a better place. If your oil cap has the milky substance on it, that's another sure sign of a blown head gasket (pushing coolant).

Jerry

 

[mccurdy]

yeah perhaps ill drain the oil myself and check it out.

I noticed no traces of milky substance in the oil via dipstick or oilcap, anywhere.
I notice no traces of bubbles or black particles in the coolant overflow container. I did however notice some white particles, but that could be from the coolant overflow container never being cleaned (hah).

I smelt the oil cap and dipstick and while it doesn't smell like gasoline in it, it does have a weird odor to it, unlike what a fresh carton of smells like. Has a stingent strong odor too it. Is that just from it being ran through the engine at high temps? I've never paid attention to what clean oil smelled like after being ran through an engine.