The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

I got tired of the crappy rear strut tower braces

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bmoha2

15+ Year Contributor
1,046
1
Mar 3, 2007
madison, Wisconsin
Every time I would tighten it down it just compressed more and more. Crappy design. I added braces to the top to eliminate any flexing. I know, I know it's kinda overbuilt but now it is very functional! I did both sides of the rear strut tower like this. I am not sure what gauge of steel I used but it was a little thicker than what the strut tower brace itself is made of. There's a little bit of surface rust, I should have cleaned it off a little better before I painted it.
 
Pictures?

I agree, pretty much all of the STB's I've seen for our cars are not very functional at all. This summer I wan't to weld the "hinges" where the bar is bolted to the mounting plate which should help a little bit. I would really like to make a triangulated front bar but I don't know if there is room for one.
 
Not sure how much STB affect handling, but if I were to get one it would be a solid, non-adjustable design like the DC Sports or APR

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I have a 1st g,but I made front and rear 3 point strut bars. Take a look at my gallery

Nice work.:thumb:

Although it seems like it would be better to have a mounting plate to distribute the force over the entire top of the strut tower as opposed to just a single bolt. I think the 2G's have a more crowded upper firewall making a triangulated bar more difficult. Did you do the welding yourself? Lookes good.

Did you notice a difference in handling, steering response, etc. after the install?
 
Thank you for the compliment.I know what you mean about the single bolt to the fire wall.The fire wall only had 1 bolt hole. The strut bar does not seem to move around .I did the fabbing on the bar,My friend is a professional welder.He tig welds all my mods.I am really lucky to have a friend that welds. I have done a lot of suspension mods on the car, every little bit helps.
 
I think the Talon feels like a wet noodle without the strut tower braces installed.. I kinda like that the rear strut tower brace can be tightened in place. the front one can't be rotated in place. I do like the dc braces I think that if they would have been available when I got mine I would have bought them instead. They also look a lot lighter than the solid aluminum braces I have.
 
You could get something like this. I have a polished bar like the one below for the rear and an APR bar in the front.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Dee, how is that bar any more rigid?

It appears that the bar's mounting plates are built with two welds that run perpendicular to the load on the bar itself. I would imagine it would not take much for those thin pieces of metal to bend or flex.
 
I've tried to bend those pieces of metal and they don't bend. I haven't done any testing on those, but I prefer one metal piece running perpendicular to the mounting plate than 3 or 4 metal pices between the bar and the mounting plate. Just a matter of preference, I guess.
 
It appears that the bar's mounting plates are built with two welds that run perpendicular to the load on the bar itself. I would imagine it would not take much for those thin pieces of metal to bend or flex.

Looking closer, it looks like the two mounting points are L shaped, meaning they won't flex when tension is applied.
 
The front bar has the L shaped bracket where the base of the L is welded to the base. The rear one doesn't have it welded to the base. It is just a piece of metal welded without the L base.
 
Your rear bar looks exactly like the same one that I have. Have you noticed any difference during turns without the rear bar? I get a noticable difference without my front APR bar, but I don't think the rear one that I got from eBay does anything. Ofcourse, my suspension setup may be different that yours.
 
I wish I could be more helpful with this but I did a full overhaul. I have a full coilover system and both bars since last time I drop so of course it's gonna handle diffrent.
 
just linking my pictures

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/0/6/5/5/5-10-07031.jpg" alt="front strut tower brace" />

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/0/6/5/5/5-10-07028.jpg" alt="rear strut tower cross brace" />
 
pagosa dsm- how does the rear strut bar attach at the bottom of the body? Is it bolted through or is there a hat channel style piece? Looks really nice.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top