I'm telling you, you have a serious boost leak somewhere. When I installed my FMIC I had a boost leak on the coupler off the hot side of my turbo. The clamp closest to the intercooler on my coupling was freely moveable by hand when I removed the intercooler fro mthe car and the clamp was all the way down. I was getting the EXACT same issues you are. 0 boost on a boost leak test, no more than 5 psi while driving and no power from the car. I would bet money your little turbo is screaming it's throat out just trying to get 5 psi into that damn thing too.
Stop being a pansy, pull all of your piping/hosing off and redo it piece by piece. Once you have done that and are certain there cannot beat a leak from holes, loose couplers, clamps etc... do a boost leak. If you still have nothing, get a spay bottle of some 409 or some soapy water and have someone spray it around your Throttle body gasket and while you do a boost leak test to see if you get foamy bubbles. Do this EVERYWHERE you can imagine you might have a boost leak and I bet you'll hunt that thing down in a matter of minutes.
If you're reading no boost on the gauge, it's leaking somewhere, so all you have to do is have someone continuously pump air into the system until you find it because if you're not building boost you're not going to risk blowing a coupler/pipe. You'll get it, and you'll be a lot happier that you didn't send it to a shop over something simple.
And as for the reason your BOV probably isn't venting. . . Well, if you have a boost leak, then why does your BOV need to open to release the air once the throttle is closed? It doesn't. Any guesses why? My bov didn't open either when I had a massive boost leak. Also, you might want to check your spring rates. I have a few buddies who are using/going to be using Tial's and I think they said that it's recommended that you use a 7lb spring for a lightly modified car. I would definitely double-check your spring though.
FIND THE BOOST LEAK, DANIEL-SON! Goodluck.
