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I assume you're porting your 14b?
I'd recommend picking up a 2g mani to port instead of the 1g if you haven't already. It'd be a shame to spend all that time porting and have it crack through (my 2g mani was MUCH harder material to port than the turbine (TH was like butter in comparison), and the O2 was even harder). The 1g manis are more crack-prone than the 2g, and porting isn't going to help that out.
If the turbo is still fully assembled, apply pressure to the WGA and see how far it turns the flapper lever on the turbine housing. If it doesn't move it too far, don't worry so much about getting the flapper to open 90°, as it can't open that far anyway. The only reason I'd get it to open 90° is so that it's out of your way for porting the WG hole from the O2 side (opening it up a bit).
Get a scribe and lay the gasket (mani-turbo or turbin-O2) on whatever you're porting very carefully to line up bolt holes, etc. Scribe inside the gasket and color the part of the face to be removed with a black sharpie. When you get close to the scribe line, it'll start to hide from you, so you have to "get careful" when you get close. I just looked at it from a few angles until the light caught the scribe line just right. The black ink will help. I don't know if they make special pens for this or not, but a sharpie might be good enough.
When you portmatch the turbine/O2 housings, you want gradual transitions. That picture of the O2 housing from VFAQ isn't "done" (atleast I wouldn't call it done). I think he's just illustrating that you change a circular hole into a bell-shaped hole to match the gasket.
If you're porting all three, you might need 3 burs. I went through 2 on all 3 parts, but the 2nd bur was dull by the time I gave up on the O2 housing. Let the tool do the work if you can, and a dull bur won't do the work. I recommend double-cut or diamond cut cylinder-radius-end burs with a 1" flute length and 1/2" diameter (probably 1/4" shank diameter). I used 2" shanks, and I got deep enough into everything.
If you search online, you can find flap wheels much cheaper than at a hardware store. Don't get Dremel brand and you save a lot. Also, I'd get 3 of the 80 grit and 3 of something like 120 grit. After you port, clean up the major bumps and facets left by the bur with 80 grit. Then use the 120 grit to get the surface smoother. Don't do like I did and use hand-sanding. The Dremel tool will do the same in 1/20th the time.
I've posted several times with pictures of my mani collector and turbine housing and info on porting. If you haven't read them and are interested, let me know and I'll track them down (or just search for posts with "porting" in the body that "kenamond" has posted to). And then there's the "How to cure boost creep by porting" tech article which I learned from before I ported.
Finally, if you have a spare housing lying around, I'd practice on it. I ported my destroyed T25 just to get used to things. Turned out nice!
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-Mack
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