Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

[90laserRSfwd]

Nice thread, but you put the bolt on the alternator on backwards! the long one that has an almost square head.. the square head is supposed to be held in place by that little lip on the alternator bracket! just thought I'd point that out for you....

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Thanks again for the support guys BTW, if anyone has any constructive comments, don't keep them to yourselves! I'd love to know if there are things you all would have done differently.

Are you using an OEM front case or Topline?

Also try Never Dull made by Eagle the next time you go to polish a shiny metal or such, made my Magnus shine up real nice.

BTW, it's looking great

Thanks for the suggestion As far as front cases, the two that I've used on this build were brand new OEM units purchased through extremepsi.

Nice thread, but you put the bolt on the alternator on backwards! the long one that has an almost square head.. the square head is supposed to be held in place by that little lip on the alternator bracket! just thought I'd point that out for you....

yes I know it is backwards. I purposely have always put it on backwards so that I can tighten the nut easier when the alternator is in the car. I think you're the third one to tell me, so I decided to go back and change it so that the square side sits flush to the alternator. There, ya happy!?

Update to follow. We did a shitload of work today (me and 123bobby123) so bare with me while I update.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Reused the clutch fork (<2000 miles), new clip, new OEM TOB, and new OEM fulcrum.

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Assemble as shown, no magic to it, just put it in the holes so the TOB stays on the fork. I used this valvoline moly lube on the pivot hole and inside of the TOB.

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Old vs new fulcrum. DogboxRacing put a shim on it, but I didn't feel the need to (opinions?)

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Water pump pulleys (alternator and power steering). Note the notch that needs to line up and how the pulleys need to mate, otherwise the belt will be skewed when you put it on.

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[blcknspo0ln]

Put the dump tube on. I'm kind of weary about the placement of the exit. To answer a question before, yes it's a custom piece. I bought it off of visiondsm.

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Cleaned the engine bay, removed all unecessary electronics on firewall, moved some stuff around.

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BREAK! new years.. yes, that's me on the right, yes, I had a lot to drink

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[blcknspo0ln]

Finally got a picker back and now it's to do so some real work!

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Use a tire or something to put the engine on, position it so that you can have access to the crank pulley bolt and enough room to mount the trans.

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Put the starter plate on. It is held on by 2 tiny bolts, so don't torque 'em too much.

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Put the flywheel on and gently tap it around with a mallet to make sure it's on flat. There is a dowel pin to guide the flywheel on.

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6 new OEM flywheel bolts and red loctite. Torqued in a hexagonal sequence at 30 ft/lb, 60, 80, and then 100. Make sure it's torqued in steps to ensure you don't warp the flywheel.

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Put a 1/2 bar on the crank shaft to stop the crank from moving.

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The machinist stepped the flywheel to .612, you can kind of make out his sharpy on the center of the flywheel.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Put the clutch alignment tool in the disc and then put the disc + tool through the center of the flywheel.

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Slide the pressure plate on. There are 3 guide pins to be wary of. I took a mallet and tapped the PP on. Again, I torqued the 6 bolts in a cris-cross pattern, first to 10 ft/lb and then to 20 ft/lb. These do not need to be insanely torqued down!

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The girlfriend helps! I put the trans on the picker because it's too much of a PITA to try to man handle it on.

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Make sure you have the two alignment dowel pins (guide pins). These are probably the most crucial pins, so that you will ensure the longevity of your clutch.

Bolt the starter on

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[90laserRSfwd]

Nice... glad to see your reversed the alternator bolt, even though you'll be cursing me out if you have to take your alternator off and only get to turn the bolt an 1/8 of a turn at a time because you can only fit a wrench in between the downpipe and alternator... Looks awesome so far, keep the updates coming man

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Anyone know how this bolt gets put on? It's the rear dowel pin hole. The strange part is that the block is threaded. I just put a long bolt in there, but does anyone know if the trans has threads on the opposite side? Strange if you ask me.

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123bobby123 saves the day!

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blcknspo0ln.. um... yea!

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Finally dropped in the bay:

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First motor mount we put in was the rear one:

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Then the front one:

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Once those two are in, you can let the engine off of the picker. Get a jack and jack the engine up by the driver most side of the oil pan so that the engine can pivot and rock so that you can get a good angle to put in the last transmission mount. Once you do that, do battle with the driver's side engine mount.

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Put some solid brass shifter cables on with new cotter pins. There are two 12mm bolts holding the assembly to the trans.

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[blcknspo0ln]

If anyone is wondering, the starter does not need a seperate ground. It grounds itself, so all you have is the power strap and the clip from the engine harness. There is a separate ground from the same harness, but you can ground that just about anywhere.

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Put the ss fuel feed line on the rail:

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Put the pass axle back on. Use antiseize on the spline so it doesn't get rusted out.

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I skipped a huge part of the electrical because I simply hate it. I got dazed and confused for about an hour just trying to figure out where all the freakin plugs go. Sorry for not taking pictures, I was busy throwing tools and punching my fender

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[blcknspo0ln]

Heres the LICP from the SSAC kit. About 4" has been hacked off to "customize" the kit and it has been powdercoated ink black by liquidpowdercoats.com

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AFPR bolted on with some new fuel line.

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Heres a pic of a slave rod with the boot pulled back. Here's also the point where I called it a night because I realized I have to unbolt the slave just to put it back on the car, hence the need to bleed the clutch system again Oh well, mind as well do that too.

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Goodnight and happy new year!

 

[tqmx1]

You were asking about the one engine mount bolt. Yes the transmission is threaded also the bolt is one size smaller than the other three bolts by one size so if the other 3bolts are 6mm the blinde one is 5mm.

 

[EclipseGSX012]

WOW great write up man!!!

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Can't wait to hear the numbers and track times this thing lays down, how's the progress ?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

You were asking about the one engine mount bolt. Yes the transmission is threaded also the bolt is one size smaller than the other three bolts by one size so if the other 3bolts are 6mm the blinde one is 5mm.

Thanks for the info, I've gotta get back there again before I button her up.

WOW great write up man!!!

Thanks!

Can't wait to hear the numbers and track times this thing lays down, how's the progress ?

Well, I've been without a p&s camera for a couple of days now (Oldman won't give mine back and my parents took theirs from me) and I wasn't about to go out with my DSLR and take pictures while working In terms of progress, I am almost ready for startup. I've bolted all of the following back up (as far as I can remember)

- alternator wiring
- LICP
- slave cylinder
- UICP
- Xcase
- downpipe
- axles
- both control arms
- finished vacuum hose routing

I've encountered several surprised along the way. I guess throughout moving everything in the garage, my 1000 mile old radiator had a leak in it. 123bobby123 was filling my radiator with coolant and it just kept seeping out of an unknown point. I was pretty disgusted so he ended up ripping it out and I put an order in for a visteon racing radiator from MAPerformance. I'm super interested in seeing how this 1" racing core is going to work. After that debacle, I decided to not waste time and do a boost leak test. A couple fixes here and there and it turns out that my 2k old machv seals were leaking out of BOTH sides. No doubt due to my latest reinstallment. I suspect that the seals are not meant to be removed and reinstalled due to how they are deformed when you put them in. I'm going to call JNZ tomorrow and get em ordered. Another thing to do is to eliminate that clutch accumulator. I need to get one of those ss lines that eliminates all of that jazz and clean up that portion of the install. Other than that, I've just been waiting on parts and a camera. Startup should be within the week, hopefully.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Ok, after the ordeal with my radiator, I finally got my visteon radiator in. Great quality piece.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...my-visteon-racing-radiator.html#post151367057

Finally bolted down the valve cover, I use 6mmx1.00 ss bolts for teh bl!ng

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I like putting a bit of RTV on this too. I've done it many times dry, but I figured why not with the RTV since I RTV'd everything else

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Moon seal:

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Rebolted the slave cylinder on:

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bolts here (driver's side view):

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pass: side view:

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[blcknspo0ln]

I had a mega-bi*** time putting the hard lines back on, I must have bent them when I removed the engine.

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Solution? Upgrade it I also did a bit of research on removing the accumulator and as defiant says, it will not be missed after I remove it.

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I aimed it upright so that I can have access to the bleed port when I rebleed the clutch. I just moved the line in between the engine mount, instead of below. When you buy a new one, it comes with 2 new crush washers and banjo (14mm).

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I'm not sure why it's so long.

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Flare (line, crow feet, whatever you want to call it) wrenches need to be used here. THE NUT WILL STRIP if you try to use an open ended wrench on it. Sizes are 10mm and 18mm for the two sides.

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[blcknspo0ln]

Test fitted and drilled new mounting holes for the JMF oil catch can (thanks Rich!)

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Rebolted the suspension. Both the control arm (curved one) and lateral arm (straight) need to come out so that it is very easy to swing the suspension assembly out to remove the axle.

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tilt your head to the left

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You can make out both arms here:

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lateral arm (it's a long bolt and nut)

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[b00stedtalon2]

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

 

[blcknspo0ln]

TB rebuild! I'm still waiting on new shaft seals from JNZ, but it's the same concept for putting it back together.

Remove the TPS and you get this, take the 10mm bolt out and don't lose the lock washer!

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Here's a machv shaft seal

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Switch to the other side of the TB where the cable ear is. Take a sharpy and make 2 lines on both sides of the springs, this way you know how many revolutions you need to go back to correct tension. Remove the 12mm bolt.

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Just wiggle the ear off and the plastic under it:

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Other side of the TB:

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[blcknspo0ln]

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

I was looking for that Oh well, let's see how this does. Thanks for the link, though.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If you had good luck, the bolts came out nice and easy. Now take a sharpy and mark the intake and exhaust side of the plate. I like putting the up arrow on both sides so I know for sure the orientation of the plate once I have to reinstall.

Take a rubber mallet and tap the throttle plate out.

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Here's a nice comparison. I had a spare 2g plate and it's much easier to visualize the plates next to each other instead of comparing whole TB's. Second pic is the two shaft differences, 1G on the left, 2g on the right.

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Once the plate is out, just tap the shaft out:

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Now take a flat head and pop the shaft seals out. If I remember correctly, stock seals are metal, so it'll take a bit of playing with to get em out.

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I cleaned it up a bit with a dremel and pad:

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[b00stedtalon2]

I was looking for that Oh well, let's see how this does. Thanks for the link, though.

Yeah not a problem. On another note, the build looks great! Keep up the good work.

 

[turbosax2]

Even better and WAY less stressful, I would have used 1 long line from the master to the slave.

2G Complete SS Clutch Line

The full line is unnecessary. The only reason to get the full line is if you broke the hard line.

The point of the SS braided line is to prevent the rubber from flexing and expanding [and to eliminate the accumulator]. Other than that little rubber section, the rest of the Clutch hydraulic system (or the pressurized side of it anyways) uses hardlines, so they won't flex

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Unscrew the BISS all the way out. It'll start to spin in place at the top, all you need to do is get something small and push the BISS the rest of the way out.

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new BISSS and Oring from extremepsi. My old one is only 2500 miles old, but better safe than sorry I guess. Make sure it's lubed (I used white lithium grease) before you install.

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Time to tap the shaft. Again, I used a #19 drill bit and then a 5mm x .080mm bit with a 10mm long bolt.

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A little unorthodox, but using a drill is much easier than hand tapping. I just make sure I put it in reverse every couple of revolutions.

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I used new bolts that are flat headed instead of phillips head, I will be using blue loctite this time around.

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[b00stedtalon2]

When I put my full SS line in, the pedal was a bit more responsive and felt much better.