Need a new wastegate

[wmrcs]

So I need to buy a new wastegate here pretty quick. I have the stock turbo and was wondering where the cheapest place to get the OEM one would be? The best price I've found so far is $87. Would this be a good time to find a cheap 14b or something? I am new to turbos so bear with me haha..

 

[JusMX141]

Used ones pop up on eBay or in the classifieds from time to time.

Before you buy- what makes you sure you need a new wastegate actuator?

 

[wmrcs]

Used ones pop up on eBay or in the classifieds from time to time.

Before you buy- what makes you sure you need a new wastegate actuator?

Because I installed my MBC backwards (Prosport MBC directions are very vague on which side goes which way!) and boosted through the roof on accident because I wasn't looking at my gauge and I tuned in 1st gear. The CEL came on after I hit fuel cut hard a few times and it's code P1103 or something which is the waste gate.

Is there a code or something I should be looking for on the turbo to make sure it's not a China/eBay turbo? The reason I would want a 14b is because they're pretty cheap, but if I found a cheap 16g I'd scavange change for it too.

 

[c2ypt1c]

The CEL came on after I hit fuel cut hard a few times and it's code P1103 or something which is the waste gate.

The wastegate actuator has no electrical connection to the ECU. Therefore, the ECU has no way to know if your actuator is truely broken. It only assumes that it is because an excessive airflow was reached, hence the fuel cut and CEL.

I'm willing to bet your actuator is just fine. You can test it by running your wastegate line straight from the compressor housing to the actuator (essentially eliminating the boost controller), and verify that it's opening at 10psi while driving (or with a boost-leak-tester). OR you can just use an air compressor on the actuator itself and verify that it opens at 10psi.

The reason I would want a 14b is because they're pretty cheap, but if I found a cheap 16g I'd scavange change for it too.

You'll need an install kit to put a 14b/16g turbo on a 2g, which adds to the total cost...the t28 on the other hand is a drop-in replacement for the t25, but is generally more expensive. Just something to keep in mind...

Is there a code or something I should be looking for on the turbo to make sure it's not a China/eBay turbo?

Here you go
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/313105-16g-serial-numbers.html

 

[wmrcs]

The wastegate actuator has no electrical connection to the ECU. Therefore, the ECU has no way to know if your actuator is truely broken. It only assumes that it is because an excessive airflow was reached, hence the fuel cut and CEL.

I'm willing to bet your actuator is just fine. You can test it by running your wastegate line straight from the compressor housing to the actuator (essentially eliminating the boost controller), and verify that it's opening at 10psi while driving (or with a boost-leak-tester). OR you can just use an air compressor on the actuator itself and verify that it opens at 10psi.



You currently have a t25 right? You do know that 14b/16g's aren't drop-in replacements. You'll need an install kit to put them on a 2g, which adds to the total cost...the t28 on the other hand is a drop-in replacement for the t25, but is generally more expensive.



That said, here you go:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/313105-16g-serial-numbers.html

Sweet thanks for all the helpful info! I'll hook the compressor housing up straight to the wastegate tomorrow and see if it is at 10 lbs. I cleared the code with the scanner but it came back on and still says wastegate and I didn't overboost or anything, it just came on after I turned the car on later.

What do I need to put in a 14b/16g? Don't I just need the exhaust housing and stuff? Or will it not bolt up to the stock manifold?

 

[JusMX141]

Because I installed my MBC backwards (Prosport MBC directions are very vague on which side goes which way!) and boosted through the roof on accident because I wasn't looking at my gauge and I tuned in 1st gear. The CEL came on after I hit fuel cut hard a few times and it's code P1103 or something which is the waste gate.

Here's what happened.

By hooking up the MBC backwards you denied any boost pressure from reaching the actuator. The boost went sky-high, the ECU responded by triggering fuel cut to save the engine. Consequently, the ECU assumes the only reason you'll hit fuel cut is a faulty boost control solenoid...so it gave you a P1103 code.

Turbo's fine, actuator's fine. Clear the code and boost on.

 

[wmrcs]

Okay thanks, I did clear it and it came on again after I turned the car off and started up again later. Ill scan it again to see if it's a different code. On another note, I did completely take out the old BCS because it was corroded an nasty so that could e the CEL. Do you know what size restrictor I can put in those wires to trick the ECU into thinking its still there?

Think a 33 ohm resistor is too much resistance? Not sure what they normally read.

I just scanned the code again and this time it was P1104. I cleared it and it hasn't come back on yet!

CEL came back on once I turned the car off and on. I'm going to solder on a resistor tomorrow and hopefully it goes away.

 

[wmrcs]

Resistor didn't work. I found the old BCS in my parts box today and cleaned the connectors really good (they were all sticky and gunky) and since the female plug that goes into the BCS was missing I was left with just bare wires. I crimped on some female spade connectors onto each wire and guessed at which wire went on which plug on the BCS. Perfect fit and got it right the first time. No more CEL. Thank God.