VRSF FMIC Install Problems

[dboyle23]

So I'm installing the vrsf on my 99 gsx. I need to know how to remove the charcoal canister. I've seen people say "remove it" but I can't find a link to how to actually remove it.

Also, I need to know how to move the power steering lines, they are also in the way. People said I can remove the part of the line that is in the front of the radiator, but they never said how to do that either.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[eclipse gsx]

i think you can remove them and just U them. that's what i did nut i wouldn't recommend that. why is it in the way if it shouldn't. try posting pictures.

 

['97boostinGST]

The charcoal canister has nothing to do with the installation of the kit. Doesn't even come close.
The lines in front of the radiator, can be evaded with the spacers that are provided in the kit...you just have to re-tap the fog light mounting points to be able to use the provided bolts.

 

[JaxonsGSX]

You literally just remove the charcoal canister, then follow and remove the vacuum lines coming out of it(To the TB and intake pipe i believe). Make sure you leave the line coming from the gas tank vented though.

This link may help http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

Best of luck, its easy. Hope you receive more help than I have in my recent thread about VRSF fmic install

 

[Blurred Talon]

The metal loop is the OEM power steering cooler. People have deleted this but personally I would run an auxiliary cooler like the kind people use for an oil cooler.

 

[4g63tc]

To move the Power steering loop.

1. remover the metal bracket securing it to the core support ( 1 bolt)

2. Remove the bottom bolt securing the support to the core support

3. Swing the power steering cooler line down, and behind the support

4. Reinstall the bottom bolt of the support.

5. Secure the coolant line with zip-ties.

Profit.

No need to Alter the power steering coolant line.

 

[dboyle23]

Do I need to remove the white bumper support that is behind the two posts that go horizontal in to the car? The one that is on the top?

 

[eclipse gsx]

you can or you can just cut it

 

[dboyle23]

That thing would be a pain to cut with my dremel. I guess I'll have to remove it.

 

[knochgoon24]

The charcoal canister has nothing to do with the installation of the kit. Doesn't even come close.

It's a 99. The charcoal canister is up in that front corner. It may be in the way.

To move the Power steering loop.

1. remover the metal bracket securing it to the core support ( 1 bolt)

2. Remove the bottom bolt securing the support to the core support

3. Swing the power steering cooler line down, and behind the support

4. Reinstall the bottom bolt of the support.

5. Secure the coolant line with zip-ties.

Profit.

No need to Alter the power steering coolant line.

Exactly what I did and what I'd suggest others do.

Do I need to remove the white bumper support that is behind the two posts that go horizontal in to the car? The one that is on the top?

You'll have to cut the black crash bumper and the white foam bumper support.

I cut mine with a 4.5" angle grinder w/ a cutoff wheel.. I'd suggest wearing long sleeves, gloves, eye protection, and at minimum... a dust mask, if not a chemical respirator. The the cutoff wheel melts more than cuts, but the crash bumper is fiberglass reinforced, so any dust may contain glass particles. I have a $10 Harbor Freight angle grinder and it had no problems cutting it.

I can tell you that neither a Dremel nor a jig saw are the way to go. The Dremel does work alright for trimming the bumper cover, but the angle grinder does a good job with that too, though not as precisely.

 

[danielsl1999gsx]

You dont have to remove it, i had this same problem with my old 99 GSX. I just removed it, installed that FMIC with piping and then bolted it back on. I had to bend the braket that held the whole thing a lot, but in the end it fit with it still in tack.

 

[2gmummy]

I just moved my canaster back some towards the tire and ran longer hoses and used a sawzall to cut the crash beam..way sketch..but it worked and i still have all my fingers haha

 

[dboyle23]

I was able to move the charcoal canister. I just unbolted it, moved it quite a ways to the side and zip-tied it a few times.

The ps cooler I'll just do what you guys said and tuck it behind.

The crash beam I need to remove. I don't have the time to go get more tools. How do you remove it? The plastic screws don't do anything when I turn them and the bolts on the beams that go in to the front of the car are all rusted and I don't want to break the tops off of them. I don't see any other way for it to come off. Am I missing something?

Damn it. It looks like I need to cut it. This is A LOT of extra work for a "quick and easy bolt on installation".

Tons of grinding to clear room for the cold side....
Drilling and tapping the 6mm holes to 8mm....
And now cutting this beam....

edit: , looks like a handsaw is enough to do the job. Time to get ripped!

 

[turboglenn]

The 4 12mm head bolts (one on top and one on bottom at each side) are all that's needed to pull the front crash beam.. The bolts sometimes break but i'd rather drill them from the "mounts" that go into the fdrame hordthan to try and get broken ones out of the frame horn it's self (Much easier access and easier to repair should things go way wrong..anyway, soak them in PB Blaster for a while and they will loosen..

Tip for loosening rusted bolts and not breaking them instead of just applying steady force, more and moreuntil the bolt comes out or breaks is niot the way to go.. What you want to do is simulate an impact wrench which actually hit the bolt with a bunch of little spikes of pressure, this causes vibration to help loosen rust and such as well as making movements in a bound up situation little bits at a time where stress isn't fully on the threade part constantly. The small powerfull movements will free the bolt uip with less chance of breakage compared to just putting moretorque on the wrech.. I takea box wrench and put it on the head, then use a small mallet or hammer and repeatedly strike them until i notice movement of the wrench/bolt, then i start using the tools by hand normally

As for cutting the support..have fun j/k If you have a right angle die grinder (air powred is best but electric works) Use the thin abrasive cutting disks unless you want the good stuff..then go to harbor freight and they have a small chain cutting tool (smaller than a lunch box from grade school) and it has toothed blades that can be bolted right to a pneumatic die grinder (sameinside diameter) These are my secret to ultra slick, smooth as silkbumper cutting for FMIC installs

best of luck, hope it all works out for the best

 

[dboyle23]

Yeah, it looks like I'll need to get that angle grinder and some discs. A handsaw would take too long.

Thanks for all the help and ideas fellahs, I'm pretty much done now and will start piecing this beast back together.