boost creep solved

[hellraz0r1337]

ok so ive read all over and im just reassuring myself before i go and take my turbo back off and try to port it myself.....

ok so i gotta take the turbo off and port where the wastegate flapper opens to make sure it opens 90 degrees not the seventy or so that it does

now do i need the 34mm flapper or will just porting the wastegate actuater arm do the job?

Also i want to run 20 psi on a stock motor anyways im just trying to fiqure out what i need to do to get this done. I have full 3" exhaust from o2 housing afc ... evo 8 fuel pump and im gonna buy a afpr and wondering 550 injectors or 660s i hear that running 20 psi anyways stops boost creep. my turbo is running from licp to wastegate starts boosting at 10psi at 3k and then as i get higher in the rpm range it goes up to 20 psi and i hit fuel cut.

ohhh yea a big fmic made to handle 500bhp and all innercooler pipeing.

Should i just port the wastegate and then do the 20 psi to be safe?

(im running no cat at all and ive never ported and polished anything in my entire life thanks)

 

[fwdeclipse]

You will want to follow this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186525 exactly how it shows here. There is no need to port behind the flapper door cause the actuator will only open it so far anyway. IF you port just like in this thread your creep will be gone.

 

[hellraz0r1337]

i cant port worth a crap does anybody know if i go external wastegate will i not have to polish this thing cause i have only a dremel...

 

[hellraz0r1337]

also sorry about this retarded question can me running a stock o2 housing cause boost creep? caue i have a 2g housing with no porting what so ever

 

[fwdeclipse]

No the more free flowing your exhaust is the better chance for it to creep. If you go with an external gate it will cure your creep problems. IF you run it off the o2 housing you may still have some creep issues but prob not as bad. If you only have a dremel porting would be a total pain. You really need airtools to do it.

 

[daren_p]

also sorry about this retarded question can me running a stock o2 housing cause boost creep? caue i have a 2g housing with no porting what so ever

The posted answer above is good info but not the complete answer. He's correct that a free flowing exhaust will add to the boost creep issue but in this case a stock unported O2 housing can also be a source of creep. Reason being the WG path in stock form is also very restrictive, making it more likely to creep. If you have the turbo off to port, port the O2 housing as well. Gasket match the exhaust path portion but spend more time opening up the WG path portion. You can open it up a good amount & remove some of the outlet side divider wall to get a less restrictive WG outlet.

As mentioned above, there is no point in porting behind the WG flapper if it a Mitsu turbo as their actuator only opens around a 45 deg angle. When porting, enlarge the WG flapper hole (but allow enough material for the flapper to still seal correctly), focus on getting flow into the WG hole, which is done by removing material above the WG hole entrance. When looking straight down into the volute you want the wall above the WG entrance to be atleast even with the wall below the enterance, if not slightly less (from factory the top wall protrudes past the lower, obstructing flow from the WG). Finally if you look at the divider wall on the outlet side you will find a big lip, right in the exhaust flow path. Smooth this wall right out till you have a nice smooth transition for the flow.

 

[bling5tatus]

Darren, that's very good information. Are there any other pointers for this subject that one might not know without having ported a turbo before? I plan on porting a 14b I have and using it when my small 16g dies.

 

[daren_p]

Darren, that's very good information. Are there any other pointers for this subject that one might not know without having ported a turbo before? I plan on porting a 14b I have and using it when my small 16g dies.

Porting is actually pretty easy to pick up. I would say an air compressor & die grinder is a must (unless you want to spend a tonn of extra time with a dremel), pick up a few different carbide bits of different shapes & sizes (think I picked up my set for about $30 on Ebay for 8 or so bits, have used them a good number of times & still work like new), some sanding drums & some fine grit flapper wheels. Obviously start with the carbite bits & you don't have to be too careful at first when your removing the bulk of the material but when you get close to the desired finished port pay attention to trying to get it as smooth as you can. The sanding drums will remove some ruff material but it takes much, much longer & they wear quicker so its best to have as smooth of a surface as you can get before the sanding drums. Once your nice & smotth with the sanding drums finish it off with the flapper wheels to give it that nice smooth & shiny finish. If you take your time & do it right, the finished product will look like you've been doing it for years.

Other areas to look at that werent mentioned above for boost creep prevention would be to completely remove the inlet step of the turbine housing. I also like to smooth out the outlet side of the turbine wheel. You don't want to change the shape here at all, just remove any of the ruff casting marks, so for this just use the sanding drums & flapper wheels.

 

[hellraz0r1337]

anybody want to make 50 bucks to port the exhaust side of the turbo? ill take it off and mail it to you.

 

[NewB2dsm]

anybody want to make 50 bucks to port the exhaust side of the turbo? ill take it off and mail it to you.

what turbo?

 

[hellraz0r1337]

big 16g i was kinda just kidding but not really cause that shipping will cost me another 50 when i could just goto my friends shop and borrow some air tools and let him laugh at me try to port it hahaha if ## in upstate ny hit me up

 

[bling5tatus]

I am going to attempt to port my 14b next week sometime, since it's a spare at this point.... and I will post pictures of my progress in here since I will be using the method talked about here.

 

[Eastwood95]

Its not that hard man, keep your money and do it yourself. Why are you wasting time? If you follow the posted link above, it's easier than Paris Hilton......drunk

 

[hellraz0r1337]

yea but all i have is a dremel and this is my dd i have a winter beater i mean with a dremel how long would it take me to just port the wastegate cause i know for sure that a dremel isnt gonna make the 7cm port through the manifold

 

[bling5tatus]

you can take the idea of using a dremel and put it in the maybe pile and then throw the maybe pile in the trash. You'll burn the motor on that dremel before you get anywhere close to porting that thing the way it needs to be ported.

 

[oldman]

you can take the idea of using a dremel and put it in the maybe pile and then throw the maybe pile in the trash. You'll burn the motor on that dremel before you get anywhere close to porting that thing the way it needs to be ported.

Not really, it can be done, just takes longer and the correct type of burrs, 1/8" shank double cut cylindrical carbide burrs.

 

[bling5tatus]

Hmmm interesting, thank you for correcting me on that. I tried with one of my metal grinding bits and it just ate the bit up.

 

[oldman]

Hmmm interesting, thank you for correcting me on that. I tried with one of my metal grinding bits and it just ate the bit up.

No problem. If you were to use the same grinding stone in 1/4" shank with a standard air grinding tool, you will eat up the stone just the same, it's about the material of the bit/burr, types of tool not so much. The only difference is amount of time due to the smaller 1/8" shank burrs in the dremel.