ECMlink install goes lean.

[turtlebain]

Guys, I got to put in my new EPROM ECU with ECMlink V3 tonight. After I got it to start up, I noticed my idle had changed, and it feels more suitable for the street. However, I have issues. My A/F is way off from what it was previously. From 1,000 to about 3,000 RPM it's showing 17's to 18's. It does drop down some after that, but it doesn't give me any confidence about driving it to work tomorrow.

Fuel Pressure Verified at 42-43
No boost leaks
It needed a tune before, but everything else was working properly.

Injectors: Lucas 1200cc
Global Fuel: -62.5%
Global Deadtime 405 micro seconds

I attached a cruise log. What could be happening?

Also if it was previously wired to use the stock boost gauge as an indicator for knock, would that still be gauging knock with the new setup? The only wiring I changed was swapping the pins 10 and 23 in the ECU.

 

[91mits]

whoa your temps seem to be really high, also u have DTC, your rear o2 sensor is malfunctioning which could be why your a/frs are off..

are you on SD? what maf setup are you running as you only mentioned that you just installed Ecmlink...

 

[turtlebain]

whoa your temps seem to be really high, also u have DTC, your rear o2 sensor is malfunctioning which could be why your a/frs are off..

I didn't have a problem with the wideband before the new ecu, and I didn't touch anything other than those 2 pins. What would you consider normal for temps?

And it is the stock MAF.

 

[91mits]

okay looks like your on correct MAF settings, if its running too lean id add fuel since every car is different, going by the global and deadtime settings with what the injector manufacturer recommends, is just a base number, you have to mess with it to what your car likes, as far as your coolant temp, i know 2Gs run a bit hotter, but 223* is kinda pushing it, im a 1g and my temps dont go above 200*

 

[Calan]

You aren't logging a wideband or MAP sensor, and have done nothing other than set the base fuel parameters. What exactly is it that you want us to look for in your log, besides the already mentioned coolant issue...and the fact that it looks like your front O2 sensor isn't working properly?

whoa your temps seem to be really high, also u have DTC, your rear o2 sensor is malfunctioning which could be why your a/frs are off..

are you on SD? what maf setup are you running as you only mentioned that you just installed Ecmlink...

While you were looking at his coolant temps and DTC's, you could have also looked at the MAFComp tab to see he's running a stock MAF. And... it's really hard to run SD without MAP and IAT sensors connected to the ECU.

 

[gofer]

Before I kick this off, the rear o2 has nothing to do with AFR's - ZERO.

You need to help yourself to the videos that Tom and Dave created to help new Link users, they'll teach you more in 10 minutes then I could typing for an hour.

I recommend videos #7 & #1 initially... ECMTuning Demo Videos

 

[turtlebain]

My needle is just above the 1/4 mark - and I can tell you it has gotten MUCH hotter.

I haven't done too much searching, but I haven't really been able to find decent information about these injectors. They are 1200cc, low impedance, and rebranded by Lucas, Lucas-style injector, whatever that means..

 

[91mits]

im running rc 1200s i got from my buddy and my car didnt like the global/deadtime when i used his settings on mine my car

 

[Calan]

My needle is just above the 1/4 mark - and I can tell you it has gotten MUCH hotter.

The factory coolant gauge is extremely inaccurate. If you run "MUCH" hotter than 223* (as in 15-20* hotter or so) for any length of time, you are starting to approach warped-head territory.

223* is too hot...period. You need to work on getting your cooling system back to normal.

 

[turtlebain]

You aren't logging a wideband or MAP sensor, and have done nothing other than set the base fuel parameters. What exactly is it that you want us to look for in your log, besides the already mentioned coolant issue...and the fact that it looks like your front O2 sensor isn't working properly?



While you were looking at his coolant temps and DTC's, you could have also looked at the MAFComp tab to see he's running a stock MAF. And... it's really hard to run SD without MAP and IAT sensors connected to the ECU.

Wow, really thought I was. So you mean I have to go back and select the wideband value to be logged. The UEGO has got to be in there as far as type goes..

Before I kick this off, the rear o2 has nothing to do with AFR's - ZERO.

You need to help yourself to the videos that Tom and Dave created to help new Link users, they'll teach you more in 10 minutes then I could typing for an hour.

I recommend videos #7 & #1 initially... ECMTuning Demo Videos

I have watched most of those, not all. But the ones you selected, yes. I haven't done all the throttle adjustment yet, I got all wrapped up in getting out there and getting some "real" data. It appears I fell short of this. Ill have to give it another shot tomorrow.

 

[Calan]

After re-reading the last few posts...

My point about the front o2 sensor not functioning properly (post #5) may have gotten lost in the discussion about the rear O2 sensor DTC... so you might want to look into that. A failing front O2 can cause the car to jump in and out of open loop erratically, and will most definitely have an effect on the fuel trims and AFRs.

 

[turtlebain]

The factory coolant gauge is extremely inaccurate. If you run "MUCH" hotter than 223* (as in 15-20* hotter or so) for any length of time, you are starting to approach warped-head territory.

223* is too hot...period. You need to work on getting your cooling system back to normal.

I thought of something on the way home today - Could the abnormal heat temps be due to an eBay "race thermostat", and giving off a different voltage than the stock unit, while ECMlink thinks it's getting stock signals?

Last night, I re-watched the videos on ECMLink, and more on YouTube. Also read quite a bit before getting to sleep. This morning, I made some idle ajdustments before work.

My Actions today in order,

• Adjusted Throttle using TPS Adjustments
• Set Target Idle to 900 RPM
• Verified IdleSw was set to 1 (it was)
• Adjusted MAF Comp Values for 0.27 gm/rev AirflowPerRev
• Compensated Injector Global Deadtime for 0-1% CombinedFT range.

Results: The idle felt far too choppy, idle RPM did not remain steady, I added knock values, it appears to be knocking ALOT.. Knocking at idle, and even more at speed.

I added MAFRaw, and ClosedLoop data to the datalog so I could run the MAFComp Adjust (CombinedFT) algorithm.

This however, turned out to be useless because I did not increase my OpenLoop Thresholds first, and only got the lower RPMs. Noticed the car almost cutting out when applying brakes after being in gear.

After work, adjusted Target Idle RPM to 1000. I retarded the timing across the board to help the knock. Set OpenLoop Thresholds to 1.15 across the board. Did the attached log.

After that my 10 week old puppy made some logs in the back yard.

Suggestions for smooth idle?
What should my wideband read at idle?
What is the difference between RawKnock 1-4?
How do I get rid of this knock?
Is this a step in the right direction?

 

[lil corb]

Are you hearing any actual knock on the motor itself? You are going the right way by fixing the intial settings but you might want to look into compression testing motor and making sure everything is mechanically ok.

 

[turtlebain]

Are you hearing any actual knock on the motor itself? You are going the right way by fixing the intial settings but you might want to look into compression testing motor and making sure everything is mechanically ok.

No audible knock, I put my head right up to the engine and all I heard was regular engine wop wop wop along with belts & other regular stuff.

Compression test is a good idea. Tomorrow is another day.

 

[gofer]

Jesus dude. Your coolant temps are ranging from 220 to 250*+!!!!

Your eBay "racing" thermostat, just like any other thermostat on a DSM, is mechanical and doesn't send any kind of signal to the ECU. There is, however, two coolant temp sensors in your thermostat housing. One sends a signal to your gauges at your dash so you can see the temperature rising, which it definitely is, and one that sends a signal to the ECU so it can control FT's based off coolant temps and also lock it in open loop and start pulling timing the hotter and hotter it gets. On a 2g if the ECU reads coolant temps go North of 230* it will lock the ECU in open loop.

Odds are you've already warped your head and, if you haven't yet, blown the head gasket running coolant temps that high. FIRST, fix your coolant temps...

I've got to see JUST an idle log at this point, after you fix your coolant temp issue preferably.

 

[turtlebain]

Jesus dude. Your coolant temps are ranging from 220 to 250*+!!!!

Your eBay "racing" thermostat, just like any other thermostat on a DSM, is mechanical and doesn't send any kind of signal to the ECU. There is, however, two coolant temp sensors in your thermostat housing. One sends a signal to your gauges at your dash so you can see the temperature rising, which it definitely is, and one that sends a signal to the ECU so it can control FT's based off coolant temps and also lock it in open loop and start pulling timing the hotter and hotter it gets. On a 2g if the ECU reads coolant temps go North of 230* it will lock the ECU in open loop.

Odds are you've already warped your head and, if you haven't yet, blown the head gasket running coolant temps that high. FIRST, fix your coolant temps...

I've got to see JUST an idle log at this point, after you fix your coolant temp issue preferably.

Thanks man, ok. Ill see what I can do. I don't know what could be wrong with the coolant system, do radiators go bad? The fans are fully operational. The coolant is topped up. The only thing I could come up with was faulty sensors or thermostat as I mentioned earlier. I guess I could fully drain everything and fill up with fresh coolant.

To me, there seems to be something wrong with the wiring. As there was an increase in RPM, Temps dropped significantly. How can this be explained away? How did the idle produce temps that high??

 

[gofer]

You've got 101 pages of reading. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/342457-car-overheated-overheating-overheats-merged.html

An OEM, not a Auto Zone or eBay, thermostat from STM (P/N - MD315301) runs $25 and doesn't have a 50/50 chance of failing the same day you install it (if not sooner). I recommend replacing it and don't just assume your radiator fans are working because they were the last time you popped the hood. It only takes a second for a fan fuse to pop or a relay to burn up and you'd never know until you blow a head gasket because of a $1 20A fuse.

STM 2g OEM T-Stat

Ensure you do a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and DISTILLED water, if you use tap water you'll get mineral deposits inside your coolant system.

 

[turtlebain]

The fluid was a 50/50 blend. I'll assume your talking about adding distilled water when using Water Wetter or similar.

I have a hunch - that one of the fans is reversed, sucking super hot exhaust manifold air through the radiator. I'll get back to you as soon as I check all of the mentioned, hopefully temps will be fixed and I'll post a log.

 

[Calan]

As there was an increase in RPM, Temps dropped significantly.

RPM, or speed?

It's normal for the temp to drop some as speed increases (under low to medium load), since you are flowing more air through the radiator. If it over-heats badly during idle, but cools off during highway cruising, then you have fan and/or ducting issues. If it runs hot continuously, you may have other issues...such as a "racing" thermostat.

 

[turtlebain]

Was talking about RPM. With speed, you get airflow through the radiator and when idling you need fans to push the air. I think I'm going to completely flush the coolant, see if the issue stops. Then go with the OEM thermostat.

Update: Car has known exhaust leak fixed, now has a coolant leak. I am interested in installing a small Koyo Radiator & probably new lines to the radiator. We filled up the car with the remaining coolant I had in the car, and water. It ran in the 190 - 210 deg. F range on the way back.

I have a new idle log posted. If you guys need any other displayed values, let me know.

 

[gofer]

Funny, the car stayed in closed loop the whole time with the 200* coolant temps.

Your AirflowPerRev at idle looks great so you can leave your MAFComp (airflow) alone (at idle) and start adjusting your fuel injector deadtime with globals in the ballpark range of where they should be. You've got 1200cc injectors and, assuming base fuel pressure of 43psi, your global injector data seems like it's good but it may need some tweaking once you start doing WOT tuning. Your CombinedFT is still positive at idle though, like 12.7%, so you need to add fuel (increase deadtime) until you bring CombinedFT % to 0 (+/- 2).

Once you do that you need to do a cruise log and set your OLThresholds based off of the numbers shown @ 8:10 into this video.
---> FT Demo

On a side note, it's obvious that your WB isn't logging accurately at all since your front o2 is cycling around .5v (considered stoich or 14.7:1) and your WB is cycling around 10.8:1. You may need to change to a different AEM WB sensor input or run the LinearWB sensor and apply your own specific settings. I made a YouTube video to help DSMers running the UEGO gauge do this...

Don't pay attention to my Morgan Freeman voice...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3BIR6OOphg

 

[turtlebain]

Fixed the CombinedFT in idle - by adjusting deadtime. Once that was done I set OLthresholds, and did a cruise log (attached).

Edit: Just saw that last part of your post on the wideband calibration. I'll have to do that tomorrow.

 

[turtlebain]

Hello, still looking for some advice on the above, I am trying to get it dialed in pretty quickly so I can drive it normally (harder).

Also, anyone have or know of a good walkthrough for MAF tuning, it would be pretty helpful. I have a couple but it's all for SD!!