11-12-2007, 04:30 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: SaLt LaKE cItY, Utah
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jun 2006
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SAFC and logger air flow difference even when no corrections are dial in
At 753rpm I pull 18hz of air flow at the logger, but on the SAFC it's always pulling double39hz . At any condition it always shows double and a bit more on the SAFC than the logger. This is with corrections -0- all across and off at the safc. Is it the wiring?
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20g setup D22A -my old school sleepa-
"GuS"..
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11-12-2007, 04:59 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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From: St. Louis, Missouri
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What does it read when you're actually driving/making a pull?
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Tom
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11-12-2007, 05:44 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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From: vero beach, Florida
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do you have a chip? if so its probably a keydiver chip , in which he cuts the value seen by a logger in half because of the max airflow the diagnostic port only puts out which i think its like 1660 or something.
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brian-16g -powered-90 gsx
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11-12-2007, 05:47 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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From: vero beach, Florida
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i saw you had the stage 3 chip, go on your logger into preference there should be an option for double hertz , which it will automatically re double the value and make it the correct amount, and it will read way over 1660 hertz exactly double.
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brian-16g -powered-90 gsx
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11-13-2007, 12:01 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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From: SaLt LaKE cItY, Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compression
i saw you had the stage 3 chip, go on your logger into preference there should be an option for double hertz , which it will automatically re double the value and make it the correct amount, and it will read way over 1660 hertz exactly double.
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Very nice compression thanks a lot, I did as you said and it worked.
I pull 50hz at idle . Is this right ?
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11-13-2007, 12:22 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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From: SaLt LaKE cItY, Utah
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I have problems stalling after medium or high rev.
I know that the ecu cuts fuel under 2k rpm and having a lighter flywheel can contribute to this but In order to grab all loose ends I thought that this could be the problem.
What else do you think could be causing this?
I have new a 2g mas.
Tested ISC showing 30ohm's.
new CTS
A stage 3 chip...., you can see my mods on profile.
Blocked FIAV only , I had the ISC and FIAV blocked at one time but after testing the ISC being good and still stalling I unblocked it .
My global timing is at 5.
Idle set at 750rpm .grounding.
I can't think of anything else that can cause the stalling.
Can you explain me tell other things to check for ? 
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11-13-2007, 12:22 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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From: vero beach, Florida
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as long as the afc is zero'd out , then yes it should be correct.
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brian-16g -powered-90 gsx
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11-13-2007, 12:23 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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From: vero beach, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnnxs
I have problems stalling after medium or high rev.
I know that the ecu cuts fuel under 2k rpm and having a lighter flywheel can contribute to this but In order to grab all loose ends I thought that this could be the problem.
What else do you think could be causing this?
I have new a 2g mas.
Tested ISC showing 30ohm's.
new CTS
A stage 3 chip...., you can see my mods on profile.
Blocked FIAV only , I had the ISC and FIAV blocked at one time but after testing the ISC being good and still stalling I unblocked it .
My global timing is at 5.
Idle set at 750rpm .grounding.
I can't think of anything else that can cause the stalling.
Can you explain me tell other things to check for ? 
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are you venting your bov ? or is it recirculated? i bet your venting and that would cause the stall because your releasing air that the ecu has allready accounted for , via mafs. get a hose clamp it on the end of the bov where the air comes out , and route it back into the intake AFTER the 2g mas but BEFORE the turbo
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11-13-2007, 12:24 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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From: SaLt LaKE cItY, Utah
Region: Rocky Mountain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compression
are you venting your bov ? or is it recirculated?
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Recirculating
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11-13-2007, 12:27 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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From: St. Louis, Missouri
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That is approximately what I pull. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
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Tom
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11-13-2007, 12:32 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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From: SaLt LaKE cItY, Utah
Region: Rocky Mountain
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Posts: 140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2gGSX
That is approximately what I pull. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
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Right on man .
Back to the sub topic, I'm thinking on advancing the timing.
I live in UT (5000ft) and know that the barometer takes care of this but could taking it up to let's say 10deg base help ?
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11-13-2007, 12:38 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: SaLt LaKE cItY, Utah
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I'm doing another boost leak test after work.
I did one not long ago and had two very small ones both from the adjust screw on the BOV (greddy type r-s) and the other on the AFPR (aeromotive) . This two I don't think could be fixed. Am I wrong?
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11-13-2007, 12:45 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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From: St. Louis, Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnnxs
Right on man .
Back to the sub topic, I'm thinking on advancing the timing.
I live in UT (5000ft) and know that the barometer takes care of this but could taking it up to let's say 10deg base help ?
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Don't do that. The 1g timing map is already very aggressive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by burnnxs
I'm doing another boost leak test after work.
I did one not long ago and had two very small ones both from the adjust screw on the BOV (greddy type r-s) and the other on the AFPR (aeromotive) . This two I don't think could be fixed. Am I wrong?
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I've heard of people JB welding the adjustment screw on there, although I'm not sure I'd recommend it.
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Tom
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11-13-2007, 03:13 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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From: SaLt LaKE cItY, Utah
Region: Rocky Mountain
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Posts: 140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2gGSX
I've heard of people JB welding the adjustment screw on there, although I'm not sure I'd recommend it.
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Yeah no I couldn't do that to a $200 part.
I will try to fit a o-ring under the nut and use some silicone under the washers. This should take care of it.
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