Magnus girdle braces users

BoostedTalonTS · 01-30-2008, 12:33 AM

Any of you fellow DSMers out there that utilize Magnus' 6-bolt girdle braces? Specifically, with a 2.4L block, 100mm crank, & ARP main fasteners? -I've been plagued with a rather stubborn oil leak for some time now and I've dropped the pan THREE times and EVERY TIME it will hold oil for a short amount of time and then it will start leaking again.

This time, I noticed that the ARP hardware on the #5 main (right next to the rear crank seal) doesn't actually clear the oil pan flange! Between the taper of the ARP nut & the washer, the OEM 6-bolt oil pan will not clear. -That causes the pan to not line up with the holes in the block... I've always used aftermarket oil pan gaskets with Ultra Grey RTV for the Oil pan without any problems until this... Any thoughts?

Kevin Kiggly, I would have gotten the main girdle set from you, provided that my parts supplier actually stocked what they claimed! -Instead, they shipped out a set from Magnus without telling me... Had I got what I ordered, I bet I wouldn't be dealing with this issue now

project_tsi · 01-30-2008, 05:28 AM

You would still have the same issue.

You have to dent the oil pan to clear the ARP main.

http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/MG_Instructions.pdf

BoostedTalonTS · 01-30-2008, 09:50 AM

Yep, tried that! -still doesn't clear unless I remove the ARP washers... Although I don't really consider that an option though.

project_tsi · 01-30-2008, 11:46 AM

Well then call Marco.

fp-green-95tsi · 01-30-2008, 12:18 PM

I enlarged the rear holes in the oil pan on mine. Still had to dent the pan a bit. Tons of miles and no leaks for me.

BoostedTalonTS · 01-30-2008, 07:36 PM

I'm kinda liking that opening up the oil pan holes idea! -Hell, that just might buy me the 2-3mm it needs to clearance the ARPs.. I'll look into it.

biglady112 · 01-30-2008, 10:28 PM

It can be done without drilling at all. You have to bolt the one or two down on the back side of the engine, one on each side of the engine and maybe one(can't remember if we did this or not) onthe timing belt side.

Then just take a hammer and wrap it up and massage as needed. We had to do quite a bit on ours. It was a 2.0L with the 5 single main caps. So this is pretty relevant.

Good luck. I just refused to drill the pan and bandaid the problem.

Steven

fp-green-95tsi · 01-31-2008, 06:58 AM

Bandaid the problem? Beating the hell out of the pan is a crude solution to the problem. Some massaging is needed but a lot less if you drill the holes 1mm bigger. Continue to do it you way though. Denting, bending and risk cracking your pan. I will continue to do it my way. I guess you live by the rule, if it don't fit use a bigger hammer.

BoostedTalonTS · 01-31-2008, 09:11 AM

Hmm... I thinking that this issue might be because of the taller 5pc (seperate) mains as found on the 4g64 blocks vs that of the "3pc" mains on the 4g63's. I did have to slightly dent my pan on my old 2.3L setup but that was nothing compared to my new 4g64 setup with the Magnus braces.
Good info here guys! -I'll try it this weekend.